How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies

How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies
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How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/14/2008 12:56:06 PM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Well it would seem that yesterday was a glorious day for the model submarine builder in my house. I recieved 2 seperate packages within 2 hours, both with a submarine inside (a Trumpter Kilo and Revell Type IIVc). I now have to decide what is going to be priority on the build table ( there are now enough projects in my garage to higher my own work team) and I have decided to go with.... The Trumpter Kilo with a D&E Sub Driver and fitting kit from www.Caswellplating.com.

Construction of the model's simple 3 piece hull will start later on this evening. So, if there are any of you that are not sure about building an R/C sub this small.... here is your chance to see that it is so easy a dummy could do it.

< Message edited by Nuke Mechanic -- 2/14/2008 1:20:51 PM >

Post #: 1

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/14/2008 1:50:30 PM

MajorTomski

Posts: 1388
Joined: 5/1/2003
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Nuke Mechanic

.... here is your chance to see that it is so easy a dummy could do it.

My son said that 8 years ago when he started a 2CH Kyosho sailboat. Actually his word was any moron could do it. Well after 5 days of hard complicated building the sailing ship Moron finally did sail. Becareful of what you think will be simple.

Looking forward to following your build.

(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 2

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/20/2008 1:58:41 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Oh with these kits all the really hard work is already done for you.

Just waiting on the Sub Driver and fittings to show up and its all ahead flank.

(in reply to MajorTomski)

Post #: 3

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/22/2008 1:58:02 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Well, I finally got started with the Kilo after going through some major setbacks with my other models. It would seem I needed to do something positive involving a submarine before I ran over the lot of them with my car. So I went ahead and started the work that is possible without the fittings kit and sub driver.

The very first step to any sub build (that isn't made from scratch) is to get it out of the box.

As usual it came in a coffin of styrene peanuts, that inevitably ended up all over my garage floor. What a joy. At least the kid seems to think they are lots of fun. I then removed the shrink wrap from the model box and had a peak inside. Yup everything is there and intact. How do I know? Well, I have built this boat once already about a year ago. That also means that I am not surprised this time to find that the hull comes in 3 pieces. A little odd considering every other sub model I've built comes in 2 piece. Actually this turns out to be a good thing for this model. The third top piece is cut right along the water line. This means you don't even have to make a hull cut to access your Sub Driver. What did I say? So easy a cave man could do it!

So the first obvious step for this model is to assemble the two lower halves.

Simple task right...... Yup your right. To get the two halves together I first removed all the plastic injection points with a file and sandpaper. I then gave the two halves a bath in some "hot and soapy" to get all the film off of them. Now I merely aligned the to halves and spot glued them at the front and back using a dab of medium CA. I then plastiwelded the rest together in 4inch segments so that I could ensure correct alignment. So, why plastiweld over just using CA on the whole thing? Well Timmy that is because although CA is strong, and the ductape of the model world, it is brittle. A few impacts with the pool wall or another boat and you might get a hull crack. That's bad mojo. The plastiweld makes a great bond that is flexible.

So, that was a pretty easy task wasn't it but try as hard as you might there will be gaps. Why would there be gaps though? The answer to that is easy and you can find the answer yourself. Get the top half of the model and flip it over. All the answers you need are right there in writing.

For me the next logical step is to fill the gaps. A seamless model is a happy model!

For this I used Evercoat Metal Glaze. When using this stuff i recommend making small batches. About the size of a quarter I find is best. The reason for this is that it hardens in about 5 minutes. There is no more waiting for it to air dry like squadron putty. Its ready for filing almost immediately but does work best when left to set completely for a few minutes.

Of course I am the impatient type so after I got the filler on my hull I moved on to the sail.

I first prepared the sail pieces the same way I did on the hull.

Once again I used the same technique as the hull and tacked to two halves in place with CA and then plastiwelded them together.

I then did the same to the top and of course filled the gaps with Evercoat.
OK time to let that bad boy set up and move on to the top half of the hull.

Sorry for the fuzzy picture on this one but its to late now so you'll have to deal with it. To get started on the upper hull I got out my 1/32 drill bit. Now, I have found that it is almost impossible to get a 1/32 drill bit at a local store. The only way I have found them is in the little Dremel drill sets. Get one. They are awesome. Anyway, I first went around the hull and drilled out all the holes in the side. I think they might be countermeasure but, I have no idea. You want certain, contact Wayne Frey! I then went around using the same bit and drilled 2 or 3 holes in each of the upper hull vents to open them up for my xacto knife. Using my xacto knife I carefully cut a rough rectangle out of the vents. I then used my flat jeweler's file to open up then vents to equal size. Now every time you file plastic with a fine grade file it will leave a kind of lip in the back. I simply went around the inside of the model with my xacto knife again and removed it.

I also took the time to take a scribe and deepen all of the scribe lines on the upper hull and sail. This will ensure that after primer and paint the details will still show. The key to this is to use a very sharp point and take your time. Trace over it once very slowly, then go back again a little deeper. Don't forget to clean out the left over plastic when your done. Also, if you make a mistake (and I always do) you can just fill the mistake in. Don't worry!!!!!

This is what the finished product looks like.

Now that all that junk was done it was time to go back to the sail. And clean it up.

I first took down the thicker parts of evercoat with a file and then went back over the rest using sand paper. Once everything was down and smooth I gave it a shot of primer to show the mistakes. Yeah that's right its red primer and I don't give a crap. I ran out of grey OK, and I don't let simple things as this hold me up. I found a few places that still required attention and fixed them again.

Next I used my 1/16" drill bit and drilled out all of the sail windows. I then used my square jeweler's file to open them up to size. I may try to make clear windows for these or just leave them open. I have not yet decided. I also removed the back wall of the bridge to allow for a place that air can easily escape. I did this by drilling a couple holes, then cutting it out using a very sharp xacto knife.

Time for another shot of primer to make sure everything is good.

One of the things I hated about making this kit the first time was the flimsy railings and crapy masts. I plan to remedy this problem on this go around.

First step was the railings. I got some 1/32" brass rod and cut it to the same length as the rail I was going to replace. I then tried to copy the angle as much as possible by bending it with my thumbs. Then I taped the piece to a scrap piece of wood and using a pencil marked where the railings needed to be. Scientific isn't it!! I then took some lengths of brass and lined them up next to the rail and taped them in place. Next apply heat and solder and bang you have the beginnings of a quality railing.

Next I trimmed the pieces to length and used the left overs to continue the railing.

Before you know it you have a complete set of railings ready for install.

Now the original railing is only glued in using on rung after every two. this means you'll need to get out that 1/32 bit again and drill holes for the new rungs. Lay a flexible ruler down and make a guide line using the other holes to help you find the right spot. Now you only need to figure out where to frill the holes. I used another scientific method to to mine. I put my railing on the sail and used it to scratch the primer where the rungs were. The I drilled the holes and installed the railing. To glue it in I applied CA on the inside of the sail and then cut the excess railing.

Here is a shot of the sail with the railings installed and a few of the masts I've been working on. More on those next time!

(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 4

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/23/2008 2:25:37 AM

subcaptian

Posts: 189
Joined: 5/10/2006
From: kasilof, AK, USA
Status: offline

How you make the stern planes not hit the prop shaft?

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(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 5

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/23/2008 1:05:55 PM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

ahh well I dont have to do much with the fittings kit from Caswell Plating its been fixed already. Youll see as soon as it arrives.

(in reply to subcaptian)

Post #: 6

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 2/24/2008 5:41:33 AM

subcaptian

Posts: 189
Joined: 5/10/2006
From: kasilof, AK, USA
Status: offline

I sound out that the stern planes are about 1/2 a centimeter above the prop shaft.

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(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 7

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 3/28/2008 3:21:58 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Oh man! I haven't posted on this in awhile! That doesn't mean I haven't done any work though. It just means I have been so busy that I haven't been able to catch up on the build thread. Trust me I am swamped right now. This may sound like complaining, like some have pointed out, it is not. In fact I would consider it seventh heaven. My philosophy is the more subs the merrier. SO, with that I continue.

OK, last we left off I had just put the basic hull parts together. This would include the two lower halves and the sail pieces. They were also filled in sanded and primed.

Now it is time to put the ballast tank vents in. Now I have some pretty good source for information, on being Wayne Frey, and it is still difficult to obtain info on what they look like and where they are. This is really the only thing I was able to obtain showing the vents and it only shows basic position.

See what I mean? Not much but it is enough. So, I took this picture and took it to my photo shop and blew it up to length. This way I could set my hull next to the now scale size drawing and mark where each of my vents would go.

After making a mark where each set of vents were to go I drew guide lines down both sides using my machinist scale and the built in center line as a guide. I then determined to the best of my ability how many vents were in each group. I also had to determine how big to make my holes. For this part I really just chose a size that I thought would look good. I went with 7/64". The only concern I have is that it may not let water to free flood in the hull fast enough. This would be important if you want to be able to surface or dive in a hurry. I am not to worried about it though because I can always come back and drill it bigger later.

Here you can see my finished product. I did all of this using a very nice and inaccurate hand drill. That should explain the white filer putty you see covering the body. If this were a perfect world I would have an x & y table for my drill press and I could get this done very precisely. I just found one in harbor freight for $99.00, it is now on my X-mas list.

Next I took some time to enhance the engraved details on the boat. This can be a good idea sometimes when you get a model that has very shallow scribe lines. After a few layers of primer, color and clear coat you may just loose some of your details. Actually the first time I made this model I loose some of my details. That's why this time I decided to deepen the lines a bit. To do this all you need is a sharp object and if you are me some filler putty ( I now call this stuff my magic eraser). Personally I use a dental scribe that you can get at your local hobby store and a metal rod sharpened to a very fine point.

The trick to this hole process is slow and steady. You can always tell when your going to fast when your doing this because your scribe will have just left the groove and made a whole new line in the wrong spot. This is where that magic eraser comes in! SO, start slow! Make the first pass very lightly and then go over it again a little harder. Do this a few times till you get it deep enough. So, what is deep enough you ask? If the scribe goes through the other side you've just gone to far and its time to get the magic eraser out.

Now since you have just removed material and essentially pushed the plastic aside you will have plastic left in the scribe groove and you will have a raised lip. Simply use a little wet sand to get rid of the lip and some steel wool to get the access material out of the groove. I also found that running the scribe through the lines again without pressure with running water works decent.

Here is a look at mine with a shot of white primer. It really makes the lines stick out good.

Well that's it for tonight. I have more to write but, its already late. More to follow later.

(in reply to subcaptian)

Post #: 8

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 4/16/2008 2:39:41 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Well time to update the progress on the Kilo so far. I''m nearly ready to get this boat in the water and go have some fun. The only thing that is holding me back right now is the nice big gaps between the two hull halves. Ive been experimenting with a few techniques but, I haven''t found my nitch for this one. My biggest problem is a nice size gap in the nose of the boat... yuck. With that said lets get down to the building.

I received some more photos showing the sail of this boat up a little closer. After a little comparison with the sail of my trumpter boat I noted a few things missing that I wanted to add to my model. For one the notch that the whip antenna folds down into was not on the sail. I also noted that there was a door/hatch on the aft end of the sail. There were also a few misc holes all over the boat that were not on my boat.

Here is a shot of my best reference for the top of the sail.

The first thing I set out to do was to add all of the misc holes that were all over the top of this boat. To do this I took out my 1/32" drill bit from my dremel drill set and chucked it up in my drill. I then took a pencil and mapped out all the holes I wanted to add while referencing it against a large print out of the photo shown above. After I was happy with where the holes laid out I drilled all the holes out. An easy task so far.
My next order of business was to create the missing hatch on the aft end of the sail. Now I have no idea how big it really is and a guess I could get all scientific and do a ratio by measuring the sail and so on but, I''m not that guy. I just eyeballed it. Using a ruler and pencil a made a few lay outs comparing to the photo and making corrections. When I was happy with my box, I used the same ruler as a guide and scribed the box in using my very sharp metallic point.
Finally I wanted to add the groove for the whip antenna. This was again a very simple task. Using my calibrated eyes I expertly laid a line in pencil where I wanted the groove to be. The I took out my dental scribe to make the groove with my ruler as a guide. I used the dental scribe for this one because it would remove more material then my regular scribe would. I needed this grove to be deep so that it would resemble the real thing.
After all this was done I shot the sail with a quick coat of flat black to give me an idea of how it would look.

Not bad I would say and I think the 20 or less minutes it took to add these small details was worth it. The add something to the bland top of this sail.

OK now back to the top of this boat. It is time to attack the safety rails, bollard holes, and hatches.

To bollard or not to bollard? For me there was no question.... they had to go. I like my boats to resemble a boat that is ready to dive and having bollards stick up while diving would more than likely never happen. So, why wont I say that it will never happen? Well, it may be personal bias but Russian equipment made very poorly. I''m sure at one time or another the mechanism to lower these bollards at one point or another failed in its duties and was forced to remain out after diving. I can''t prove it but, you all know its likely. OK, way of course now ehh. Anyway I simply made a small batch of Evercoat and filled all the stupid holes in that the kit provided for their bollards. I then took the bollards and sharply stuck them in the trash.
While the Evercoat was setting up I moved on to the hatches. I have lots of pictures of these bad boy and all of the ones I see show the kit to be incorrect in its representation.
Here have a look for yourself.

Notice that the deck does not have a recess around the hatch like the kit indicates. I am very curious what they were looking at when they made this model. I mean it is a Chinese model. the Chinese have Kilos of their own that they have purchased from Russia.
Look for yourself!

Nice huh? Well, I guess we will just have to fix what they didn''t.
This is a fairly simple fix but, its can be a pain in the arse ! Phase one start by gluing the provided hatch into place. Phase two mix Evercoat. Phase three apply Evercoat to the gap. Phase four watch Evercoat dry. Of course it only takes about 5 minutes for the stuff to dry but why sit around when there is work to be done. Lets move on to the hand rails.

The hand rails are a bit over sized on the boat and not mention incorrect again. The safety rails on this boat do not extend all the way down to the end of the deck. Have a look.

You have to be paying attention but you can see it in the top corner. In fact there is a good amount of nice detail in this photo that one could add to the boat. Leave it to personal preference ehh.

As for right now we are only concerned with the safety rail. First thing to do was to just remove the old hand rail. I is not only to long but, it is also to big. To get rid of it I took out my exacto chisel and shaved it off.

Next it was time to ensure the old rail was all gone by sanding it down. I is also a good time to sand everything down and make the corrections smooth. After a little wet sanding I let the top dry and shot it with some primer to look for holes in the filling. I then applied squadron putty to fill the dimples and holes. I also inspected for left over railing and removed that as well. After the putty dried I wet sanded again and this was what I ended up with.

The next thing I wanted to do was replace the railing with an new better one. There are two ways you can do this that I can think of. There is the cost effective way and there is the lazy way. I wonder which one I chose. Yeah the lazy way. I took myself to the local hobby store and bought the smallest rod styrene they had and brought it home to use as my rail. The other way is to take the plastic struts from the kit and using a flame pull them into thin strips. I suck at it. Good luck to you.

Now to attach the the rails I first held down the end of the rail on the forward end of the boat where I wanted it. The using a small brush with some plastiweld I adhered about a 1 inch section to the boat.

This helped me to hold the rail in place while I used tape to place the rest of the rail where it needed to be . I also ensured that the safety rail ended right before the aft hatch. After that I applied plastiweld to the rest of the railing and let it dry. Remember that only a little bit of plastiweld is needed. Using to much will melt the plastic and make wrinkles. It is a real pain to fix. I hate doing it. So should you.

Here is a look at the after effect. Sorry the photo is a little fuzzy but, It is to late for me to take another as I was on a roll at the time.

(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 9

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 4/16/2008 3:11:45 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

Now to fix the top half of the bow. More specifically the sonar window that the Russians love to put on their boats.

If you scroll up and have a look at the schematic for this boat you will notice that the window does not go down to the water line. It actually stops right above it. On the model it extends all the way to the seam where the top and bottom connect and ends? Just weird because it doesn''t even complete the window. I think I will fix it.

The first thing to do was to figure out where the window needed to end. Judging from the schematic the window ends just below the forward most ballast vent. Now all I did was place the top on a flat surface and make shims to get a pencil to the desired height. I then made a pencil line around the bow where I wanted the new scribe line to be.

Now that I knew where the line needed to be I took some putty and filled the line up to where it needed to be . Next I got my scribe out and shimmed it to the desired height. I also taped it to the shims to ensure it would not move and made my new line. After a few passes the sonar window was fixed.

After I was done with the bow I went back to the top of the hull so I could re scribe the Circles for the forward and aft hatches. For this I just used a template, found the appropriate size circles and made my scribes.

(in reply to Nuke Mechanic)

Post #: 10

RE: How to R/C the Trumpter Kilo for Dummies - 4/24/2008 1:31:20 AM

Nuke Mechanic

Posts: 93
Joined: 7/13/2006
From: portsmouth, VA, USA
Status: offline

For the next part of my Kilo adventure I wanted to add another bit of detail to the hull itself.

I noticed in a few photos I have that there is a creeper motor exhaust port and intake on both sides of the boat. They are difficult to get pictures of with much detail so I embellished a bit.

Heres a look at the best photo I had to work with.

You can just see a square door forward of t