Posts: 71
Joined: 5/29/2008 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: vettster
If they dont, Im sure theyll have a quick solution. There knowledge is Very impressive, as Im sure you already know.
What club do you fly from. Im in the Aurora club.
Trevor
actually I dont belong to any club, Just tinker sometimes with planes,
enjoying the thread and the knowledge here much, good learning experience as well but i know litlle about some of the technology spoken here, esc radio programming and all that stuff
Im always looking for the simplest solution to everything i guess
Ive bought a fair bit of stuff from pinnacle and great hobbies along the way
I saw this mod attached here and thought maybe converting the plane to prop drive,but dont know as i havnt got all the measurements to see if its possible yet, but i couldnt and wouldnt do it the way of this diagram in any case, (not sure of the clearance between the pods and the fuselage and some other things, it was just a thought in any case
edit
If anyone has the empellor off -can you measure the length of the shaft and also the end of the shafts distance from the front of the housing if there is any....(im wondering how to put a prop adapter on it at the front)
maybe trying this wouldnt get enough thrust ?
< Message edited by canwhitewolf -- 6/20/2008 9:34:24 AM >
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Joined: 5/29/2008 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
RysiuM
quote - I used 25mm M2 screw that I screwed in replacing original screw. This long screw went deep, but still was about 15mm between the front of the rotor and the screw head. This way I created the support point against which I could pull the rotor. - 3mm hard steel wire bent in V and then two little hooks bent at both ends. This created me a tool (V shape) that I could use to grab by the rotor's hub (between fins). - The last tool I used was spreading pliers. The kind, that when you squeeze the handle the jaws will open. - Using these pliers between the V-end of wire and the M2 screw I was able to pull the rotor off the adapter. The force was quite big.
The same tool I used to push the original motor off the EDF unit.. I grabbed the plastic motor mount with the V-shape wire and use pliers to press on the motor's shaft. unquote ******************************************************************************************************
I know its not hard but i cant get my head around that V tool, and method for removing empellor
could you post a pic plse of the V tool that you designed and used if you have time
Posts: 14
Joined: 5/10/2008 From: Holyoke, MA, USA Status: offline
OK, I've got a couple of questions, if I make a VPX pack, can it be used with the stock motors, and ESC, 2, is there a way to modify the VPX charger to be able to charge the pack...............Brian
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Joined: 4/22/2003 From: Elk Grove, CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hoghunter12 if I make a VPX pack, can it be used with the stock motors, and ESC,
For sure it is a better battery pack than the stock NiMh. Stock motors will easy survive the voltage provided. The plane will fly better (in my case it means will at least fly).
quote:
ORIGINAL: Hoghunter12 is there a way to modify the VPX charger to be able to charge the pack
I don't know how the construction of VPX charger, but for sure it is designed for 2-cell pack. And frankly, this charger sucks (I got it with VPX tool for my birdthday). This charger needs from 2 to 4 hours to charge the original VPX pack. I can do it with my Triton in 20 minutes by babysitting NiCd charging cycle. And VPX charger has a balancer built in that is designed for 2 cells only.
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Mather Aerospace Modelers, Inc. AMA Gold Leader Club, Charter #1243, Sacramento, CA
Posts: 71
Joined: 5/29/2008 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
was thinking of trying to break in engines as suggested, couldnt see a way to use a dremel tool to do this without removing empellor to attach shaft to dremel tool
so i guess the other alternative would be D cell batteries and connect to motor contacts and run the battery out...is this the way to do this? 1.5 volts or 3 volts? (series or parallel for D batteries?)
< Message edited by canwhitewolf -- 6/9/2008 8:34:15 AM >
Posts: 215
Joined: 9/2/2007 From: Newmarket,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Richard! Sorry i took so long but the ESCs are on the way.
Now After finnaly assembling everthing on the A-10 and thottling up,..it dawned on me?.........Am I freaking nuts!! I cant fly this thing!! Sooooooooo I went out and purchased a Hanger 9 p-51MustangPTS. wich my dad is currently teaching me how to fly. Things are progressing nicely, thank you. I really like the Mustang aswell.
< Message edited by vettster -- 6/10/2008 3:00:33 AM >
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Joined: 9/2/2007 From: Newmarket,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
What I mean is that the A-10 is a very Powerfull and agressive jet for me to be flying with NO previous experience. I can fly Heli's pretty darn good now, but Ive seen some of thouse electric jets at the feild and MAN! do they move out. So Im going to become a confident fixed wing pilot first and then Ill pull out the A-10. should only be a month or so. Im a quick learner and I have a good teacher (my day) aswell as the very talented instructors at my feild.
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Joined: 4/22/2003 From: Elk Grove, CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: vettster What I mean is that the A-10 is a very Powerfull and agressive jet
Ah, I see. This is what we were writing about few pages back. This is not the "first plane". But if you you are confident with low wing trainer, this thig is quite fun to fly.
Maybe we did not explain it well. A-10 is not a trainer meaning it will not correct itself in the flying. The plane flies the way it has been pointed to and if you let sticks off, it will continue. If it is banked - it will stay banked unless you use ailron input. And because it is light it can be easly pushed around by wind gusts and thermals. So pilot must be on top of it all the time. It is not a trainer and not suitable for beginners.
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Mather Aerospace Modelers, Inc. AMA Gold Leader Club, Charter #1243, Sacramento, CA
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Joined: 9/2/2007 From: Newmarket,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: RysiuM
quote:
ORIGINAL: vettster What I mean is that the A-10 is a very Powerfull and agressive jet
Ah, I see. This is what we were writing about few pages back. This is not the "first plane". But if you you are confident with low wing trainer, this thig is quite fun to fly.
Maybe we did not explain it well. A-10 is not a trainer meaning it will not correct itself in the flying. The plane flies the way it has been pointed to and if you let sticks off, it will continue. If it is banked - it will stay banked unless you use ailron input. And because it is light it can be easly pushed around by wind gusts and thermals. So pilot must be on top of it all the time. It is not a trainer and not suitable for beginners.
So You mean it flys Exactly like a Helicopter!! Maybe I should have saved the money on the Mustang.lol
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Joined: 2/17/2008 From: San Juan Capistrano,
CA, USA Status: offline
[/quote] So You mean it flys Exactly like a Helicopter!! Maybe I should have saved the money on the Mustang.lol [/quote]
I don't think I've yet seen my Guanli A-10 take off vertically, fly backwards or hover. Unless Richard has has come up with another inventive upgrade for it.
Fixed wings are a piece of cake to fly compared to 'lectric Heli's and Glow/Nitros are the hardest. There is no comparison. My son and I are building from scratch a 1/6th scale AH-1G Cobra like I flew in Nam; it will be a handful to fly even with 10 years of experience in RC Heli's and after flying the real McCoy '68 - '72.
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Joined: 9/2/2007 From: Newmarket,
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1/6th !!! What is the dia of the rotor going to be. 10'? Isnt that going to fall into the clasification of UAV. You better keep the waight down. All in all VERY COOL!!! Post some pics if you can. or at least the link.
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All Forums >> Electric Aircraft Universe >> Electric RC Jets >> RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars 
RE: Nitro Planes A-10 Warthog for 95 dollars - 
