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RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/17/2008 2:44:12 AM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		I have updated the Microsoft Word doc file to: B36_Build_docs_v3.doc

This file has all of the build documentation so far (a bit more than I have posted on RC Universe).

Go to: http://b36.flugmodel.net

You can also download the virtual reality file viewer at this website.

As I mentioned before, I still need to organize the layout of the design files. I will get to that soon.

Mike Roerig
mikeroerig@gmail.com


(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 51

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/17/2008 5:42:44 PM   
FlyerInOKC


 

Posts: 373
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Your airplane is looking better and better all the time Mike! I think I found my next winter project.

Mike

(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 52

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/17/2008 6:02:26 PM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		Thanks,

Last night I almost finished making the mount for the second main gear retract. Once that is finished I can finish up the wing mount area.

I still have a couple of sections of the trailing edge to finish before I can do the motor mounts. I am really looking forward to that. It should look good with six motors in place.

It's not a complaint, but it does take longer to do everything when I need to take the time to document. I know that I need to document as I go. If I don't, I will probably get to it 'some day'.

If you do decide to build one next fall you will have the benefit of more complete documentation. When building I discover that additional measurements need to be included like the exact location of the wing leading edge and trailing edge for the wing mount. I have a list of updates to make to the documentation and they will all get in there.

Thanks again for the comment.

Mike

(in reply to FlyerInOKC)
       Post #: 53

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/18/2008 12:27:38 AM   
FlyerInOKC


 

Posts: 373
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		I usually start by making paper templates up of the parts to glue to the wood and then cut each piece out by hand. It takes a lot of time but I enjoy it. I like to have all the parts cut before starting to build Occasionally I find a part I want to modify so I will cut one orginal and one modified in case my idea is all wet.

Mike

(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 54

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/18/2008 2:44:37 AM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		Mike,

I believe that if you look at the thread that precedes this one (see first post in this thread) you will find that someone told me how they used a laser printer to make their templates, layed them face down on the balsa, and then gave them a light dose of isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol transfers the image to the balsa without shrinking the paper or the balsa. The alcohol evaporates very quickly and you are left with a paperless template. It sure sounds great. If you try it out, let me know how well it works. It would have saved me a lot of time. I used a photograph adhesive to hold my paper templates to the balsa sheet as shown. If you leave the paper on the balsa for a day or two it can be very difficult to get it off. I should try out the suggestion just to see how well it works.

Mike



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(in reply to FlyerInOKC)
       Post #: 55

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/18/2008 3:00:59 PM   
FlyerInOKC


 

Posts: 373
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		I have done the samething using laquer thinner instead of alcohol, but I still perfer using rubber cement to attach the paper templates. I do my cutting in multiple locations and I never have to worry about rubbing the lines off or being too light to see. Also I found I find I make few mistakes in the final sanding by having the paper glued on the piece. The templates are easy to remove and occasionally will release themselves after they have set awhile. I do cut the wing ribs in pairs so I only need one template per set.

Mike

(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 56

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/18/2008 6:29:22 PM   
CrateCruncher



Posts: 530
Joined: 10/14/2005
From: Austin, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Mike and Mike,
I was the one who mentioned transferring a photocopied image directly to wood using lacquer thinner. I go into more detail in my Duelist thread. Here's the link if interested:http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7165436/tm.htm
Regards, Mike

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(in reply to FlyerInOKC)
       Post #: 57

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/18/2008 7:20:29 PM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		Mike, Mike, Mike, .... Hmmmm

Anyways, great photos! First, I see that you place them REALLY close together. You probably get more parts per sheet, but my extra spacing allows me to stray a bit. My scroll saw sometimes takes an unexpected turn. For me, the wood is cheap and disk sander takes off excess wood very quickly.

I hadn't used rubber cement with my paper templates, I used photo adhesive. This adhesive made it easy to remove the paper templates if you get to them in an hour or two but if you wait a few days it can be rather difficult to get the paper off. I also noticed that if I sprayed the photo adhesive on both the balsa sheet and the paper, the paper would shrink. I recreated my ribs a second time and sprayed only on the balsa sheet.

I will take this opportunity to comment about a scroll saw blade that I just came across. It appears to be a blank scroll saw blade with no teeth that has had very durable sanding particles adhered to it. I purchased a set last weekend at Menards and they work rather slick to sand the inside edges of very small areas. For example it would work well on the notches that I saw in the parts shown in your photos. I just thought that I would mention it.

Mike

(in reply to CrateCruncher)
       Post #: 58

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/19/2008 1:12:50 AM   
FlyerInOKC


 

Posts: 373
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline 		We are just broke out in Mikes on this thread! And everyone of them must be devistating good looking and intellegent!

Mike

(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 59

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/23/2008 4:36:06 PM   
weskel



Posts: 269
Joined: 10/14/2003
From: Crestview, FL, USA
Status: offline 		I have tried the links to download the files with no luck, is there any other links?

Weskel

_____________________________

I can crash any plane out there, Guaranteed!!!

(in reply to FlyerInOKC)
       Post #: 60

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/23/2008 5:18:49 PM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		Weskel,

I will try the links shortly and provide a status update here.

Mike Roerig

(in reply to weskel)
       Post #: 61

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/23/2008 5:47:12 PM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		I lost about a week of my spare time trying to resolve a problem with one of my laptops so there weren't any new posts.

I gave up on the laptop issues and got back to working on the B-36.

As I mentioned previously, the retracts came back from Century Jet Models and they fit nicely now. I finished up the mount for the second main gear retract. It looks just like the previous mount so I won't post yet another retract photo.

I moved on to the wing mount area.

To secure the wing mount area I needed to have the wing level and the fin vertical. I needed a large flat area where I could have the wing halves joined and set on the fuse. My workshop is a bit too small for this so I temporarily moved the B-36 to our basement. A while back I carved a semi circle in some large pieces of finger foam and I use this as a fuse cradle. With the fuse set on the foam I used a large framing square and a bubble level I confirmed that the floor was level and that the fin was vertical. I used the trailing edge of the fin as my guide. I set the joined wing on fuse and added spacers under the foam to bring the fuse up far enough for it to meet the bottom of the wing. It was not lifting the wing at all. The wing was supported by the extended landing gear. The four wheel bogey main gear has springs on it to help keep the wheels level which was almost enough support to allow the wing to stand on its own.

At each wing tip I measured the distance from the front edge of the tip rib to the floor. I was very please to see that they were within 1/16" of an inch. I believe the measurement was 5 - 15/16". I will double check that measurement and post a confirmation. If the two tip ribs had been a bit more uneven I would have removed one of the main gear retracts and added a very thin spacer under it to raise one wing tip. The main gear isn't very far out on the wing so a small spacer would make a large change in the height of a tip rib.

I examined the underside of the wing where it meets the wing mount on the fuse. I marked the area that needed a slight bit of sanding and sanded it. After sanding I set the wing back on the fuse and double checked that the fin was vertical. I was surprised that everything was right on. I expected this to take a half dozen iterations to get it right. I guess it was my lucky day.

I don't want to time out with this reply so I am going to post this and continue on with another reply.

Mike Roerig
mikeroerig@gmail.com

(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 62

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/23/2008 6:02:02 PM   
xb36


 

Posts: 221
Joined: 2/15/2008
From: White Bear Township, MN, USA
Status: online 		Continuing on....

I was ready to secure the wing to the wing mount but before I could do that I needed to split the wing mount into two halves. Each half of the wing mount would be adhered to a wing half. The first photo shows the wing mount cut into 2 pieces and pinned into place.

I just realized a minor correction to my previous post. I used the trailing edge of the rudder as my reference point for getting the fin vertical.

To be sure the that wing wouldn't get mounted with yaw, I put a pin on the top center of the fin and measured the distance from the pin to the leading edge of each tip rib. A very slight shift of the wing was all that I needed. Reluctantly I used CA to adhere the wing to the wing mount.

Mike Roerig
mikeroerig@gmail.com

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(in reply to xb36)
       Post #: 63

RE: B-36 build thread and free plans - 3/23/2008 6:20:37 PM   
xb36