RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old  
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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 12:08:39 AM   
cbenko


 

Posts: 1
Joined: 2/28/2008
From: , MD, USA
Status: offline 		I need help I am also building the 4 * 60 and dond understand the dihedral gauge that you show in the pics. what angle please help

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 26

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 12:33:59 AM   
SeamusG


 

Posts: 184
Joined: 6/16/2007
From: Westminster, CO, USA
Status: offline 		cbenko - according to my degree wheel, straightedge and 2-way gauge the dihedral angle for each wing is 2 degrees. That is an approximation only - but pretty close.


_____________________________

Experience is what ya get when ya don''t get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to cbenko)
       Post #: 27

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 1:05:33 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I'll maybe go with the cub yellow then SeamusG. Today I got most the wing done, have to sheet the top now. I put in the front block, rear block, the top of the trailing edge ( used Elmer's glue for that), also installed the tube. What do you do, cut of the trailing edge with a razor saw first, then sand? Or just sand it all down after? I have to cut the sheeting for the top now. The dihedral angle still looks ok. Oh, I also cut the slot for the dihedral brace, and it fits ok.


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< Message edited by dapam03 -- 3/4/2008 4:45:48 AM >

(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 28

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 1:16:31 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Cbenko, If you glue the inside end rib holding the guage against it the way i'm showing it on my last post, it should work out. Check it in about 3 places, because you could have it on on one end of the rib and off at the other end. It tilts in at the top about 2 degrees. When you cut the slot out for your dihedral brace, check it again, in case it changes. If you wick in with thin ca either side of the spars, it shouldn't change. Hope that helps answer your question

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       Post #: 29

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 6:02:33 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Wing is ready to take off the board and gone over the underside with medium ca. I had to shape the block in the corner to contour the wing ribs. I used Elmer's glue when I put the sheeting on so it will be easier to sand. I wet the balsa on the leading edge to help make it conform. I wasn't sure the best way to bend balsa. Posting:
1. Checking for a fit on the leading edge.
2. Used Dremel for some of the shaping
3. then used razor saw (i'll probably just use the razor saw next wing)
4. Fit looks ok.
5. Top sheeted. Cut in slots for stringers and installed them.

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< Message edited by dapam03 -- 2/29/2008 6:11:15 AM >

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       Post #: 30

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 2/29/2008 10:00:28 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I got the left wing assembled and tacked up. Ready to put the leading edge and trailing edge blocks in next.

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(in reply to cbenko)
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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/1/2008 2:38:12 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Left wing ready for going over glue joints (medium ca). then top sheeting left to be put on. I've been using Elmer's glue for trailing edge, and top sheeting.
1. Installed front block.
2. Installed servo tube.
3. Intalled rear block and trailing edge.




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< Message edited by dapam03 -- 3/1/2008 2:57:05 AM >

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 32

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/2/2008 3:26:49 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I joined the wing halves together using 30 minute epoxy. I was reading ahead, and the wing blocks, Sig says to use medium ca, then wick them with thin ca. Wouldn't epoxy be better?

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       Post #: 33

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/2/2008 5:20:22 AM   
SeamusG


 

Posts: 184
Joined: 6/16/2007
From: Westminster, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Page 17 34 a thru d ... Emmmmm

If you consider this to be a high stress joint - then the right answer is epoxy. I do and I did on my 4*60 too. A little overkill goes a long way. If not I would use Elmers (Titebond Pro).

I'm guessing that SIG assumes that this is a 1st time build (it was for me) and that CA will dry quickly and clamps won't be needed. I would go epoxy and clamps. Later, in preparation for covering I fuel-proofed them with epoxy.

Keep up the great work!


_____________________________

Experience is what ya get when ya don''t get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 34

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/2/2008 7:17:35 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I think i'll go with the epoxy. If my airplane turns out like yours i'll be really happy. I like the covering scheme on yours. It's a pretty airplane. When you put the dubro landing gear on, did you make another block, or use the same one supplied with the kit? Is that a sullivan tailwheel? I'm thinking i maybe should cut the slots for the aileron hinges before I taper them( I bought a dubro slotting guide). What do you think? Is there a trick to putting the 30 degree taper on nice and even? I have a 22 inch sander. Also a nice rounded TE. How did you do yours?

(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 35

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/2/2008 7:51:09 PM   
SeamusG


 

Posts: 184
Joined: 6/16/2007
From: Westminster, CO, USA
Status: offline 		On the landing gear ...
The standard landing gear plate is 1/4" ply - that's fine. I added addition tri-stock across the back former between the wing dowel holes and across the front between the fuse sides - all epoxied. 4 6-32 allen bolts with blind nuts hold the Dubro gear in place.

On the tail wheel assembly ...
Yea, I replaced the original equipment with a Sullivan assembly - figured it was lighter by a bit. 4* tend to end up tail heavy.

When you say "taper" are you referring to putting an angle on the front of the aileron? If so, I would suggest waiting until you have put the two 20 degree angles on the leading edge. I simply marked a pencil line at the midsection of the aileron leading edge with a soft pencil. I found a balsa stick and laid it down on the edge of my table (see pic 1 - that's a Kadet Senior stabilizer as an example) . The leading edge was laid down so that the leading edge is held up off the table and the trailing edge on the table (see pic 2). Eyeballing the angle I called it good to go. I then just ran my 11" sanding block across the front of the leading edge sanding up to the center line (see pic 3).

hth

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_____________________________

Experience is what ya get when ya don''t get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 36

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/3/2008 4:03:40 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 125
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I finished the wing, except for the hold down blocks, and wing tip ribs. I heated epoxy, it went on good except when I come around the TE I got a bubble up. I worked my knife into it since the pic and put some ca, which helped. not sure whether to grind that bit off with the dremel and redo, or leave well enough alone. It's in a location where it won,t be seen. Any suggestions?


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(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 37

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/3/2008 4:21:30 AM