Posts: 180
Joined: 6/16/2007 From: Westminster,
CO, USA Status: offline
cbenko - according to my degree wheel, straightedge and 2-way gauge the dihedral angle for each wing is 2 degrees. That is an approximation only - but pretty close.
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Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
I'll maybe go with the cub yellow then SeamusG. Today I got most the wing done, have to sheet the top now. I put in the front block, rear block, the top of the trailing edge ( used Elmer's glue for that), also installed the tube. What do you do, cut of the trailing edge with a razor saw first, then sand? Or just sand it all down after? I have to cut the sheeting for the top now. The dihedral angle still looks ok. Oh, I also cut the slot for the dihedral brace, and it fits ok.
< Message edited by dapam03 -- 3/4/2008 4:45:48 AM >
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
Cbenko, If you glue the inside end rib holding the guage against it the way i'm showing it on my last post, it should work out. Check it in about 3 places, because you could have it on on one end of the rib and off at the other end. It tilts in at the top about 2 degrees. When you cut the slot out for your dihedral brace, check it again, in case it changes. If you wick in with thin ca either side of the spars, it shouldn't change. Hope that helps answer your question
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
Wing is ready to take off the board and gone over the underside with medium ca. I had to shape the block in the corner to contour the wing ribs. I used Elmer's glue when I put the sheeting on so it will be easier to sand. I wet the balsa on the leading edge to help make it conform. I wasn't sure the best way to bend balsa. Posting: 1. Checking for a fit on the leading edge. 2. Used Dremel for some of the shaping 3. then used razor saw (i'll probably just use the razor saw next wing) 4. Fit looks ok. 5. Top sheeted. Cut in slots for stringers and installed them.
< Message edited by dapam03 -- 2/29/2008 6:11:15 AM >
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
Left wing ready for going over glue joints (medium ca). then top sheeting left to be put on. I've been using Elmer's glue for trailing edge, and top sheeting. 1. Installed front block. 2. Installed servo tube. 3. Intalled rear block and trailing edge.
< Message edited by dapam03 -- 3/1/2008 2:57:05 AM >
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
I joined the wing halves together using 30 minute epoxy. I was reading ahead, and the wing blocks, Sig says to use medium ca, then wick them with thin ca. Wouldn't epoxy be better?
Posts: 180
Joined: 6/16/2007 From: Westminster,
CO, USA Status: offline
Page 17 34 a thru d ... Emmmmm
If you consider this to be a high stress joint - then the right answer is epoxy. I do and I did on my 4*60 too. A little overkill goes a long way. If not I would use Elmers (Titebond Pro).
I'm guessing that SIG assumes that this is a 1st time build (it was for me) and that CA will dry quickly and clamps won't be needed. I would go epoxy and clamps. Later, in preparation for covering I fuel-proofed them with epoxy.
Keep up the great work!
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Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
I think i'll go with the epoxy. If my airplane turns out like yours i'll be really happy. I like the covering scheme on yours. It's a pretty airplane. When you put the dubrolanding gear on, did you make another block, or use the same one supplied with the kit? Is that a sullivan tailwheel? I'm thinking i maybe should cut the slots for the aileron hinges before I taper them( I bought a dubro slotting guide). What do you think? Is there a trick to putting the 30 degree taper on nice and even? I have a 22 inch sander. Also a nice rounded TE. How did you do yours?
Posts: 180
Joined: 6/16/2007 From: Westminster,
CO, USA Status: offline
On the landing gear ... The standard landing gear plate is 1/4" ply - that's fine. I added addition tri-stock across the back former between the wing dowel holes and across the front between the fuse sides - all epoxied. 4 6-32 allen bolts with blind nuts hold the Dubro gear in place.
On the tail wheel assembly ... Yea, I replaced the original equipment with a Sullivan assembly - figured it was lighter by a bit. 4* tend to end up tail heavy.
When you say "taper" are you referring to putting an angle on the front of the aileron? If so, I would suggest waiting until you have put the two 20 degree angles on the leading edge. I simply marked a pencil line at the midsection of the aileron leading edge with a soft pencil. I found a balsa stick and laid it down on the edge of my table (see pic 1 - that's a Kadet Senior stabilizer as an example) . The leading edge was laid down so that the leading edge is held up off the table and the trailing edge on the table (see pic 2). Eyeballing the angle I called it good to go. I then just ran my 11" sanding block across the front of the leading edge sanding up to the center line (see pic 3).
hth
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Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
I finished the wing, except for the hold down blocks, and wing tip ribs. I heated epoxy, it went on good except when I come around the TE I got a bubble up. I worked my knife into it since the pic and put some ca, which helped. not sure whether to grind that bit off with the dremel and redo, or leave well enough alone. It's in a location where it won,t be seen. Any suggestions?
Posts: 81
Joined: 12/28/2001 From: Bakersfield, CA, USA Status: offline
Congratulations on building from a Kit. You will never regret your decision. You will be able to reinforce any points that you think are weak. With an ARF you can't even see the flaws that have been covered up during the building process by someone who has NEVER flown a model, and has no real understanding of what is important.
You will also get to shake your head in wonder, when you see a fellow flier trash a $200+ ARF that you know you could repair and have it back in the air after a very few hours of repair and a few dollars of glue's, balsa, plywood and covering.
Have fun with your build, the 4* 60 is a great kit and terrific flier.
Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008 From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA Status: offline
Ralph78, One of the reasons I decided to build, is; I have to rely on other people to set up my airplane for me. By the time I finish building, i'll know how everything works. I'll be able to do everything myself. I'm enjoying the build. I have to figure out this radio now. (DX7). These forums are great, there is lots of support. SeamusG, Thanks for posting the pics. I have a guage I can set at 30 degrees, and I'll prop the aileron on an angle, and sand it the way you showed me. I have a dubro tool for cutting hinges, i'll cut them in before I put the angle on the leading edge of the aileron. Any good techniqes for putting a round edge on the TE? Posting: 1. Wing hold down plates installed. 2. Wing tips installed. 3. Servo tray mounts in.
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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 
