RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old  
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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/7/2008 4:18:20 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Just finished soldering the linkages for the ailerons. I guess next step will be mounting engine mount to firewall.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/7/2008 6:34:35 AM   
GhostRider32


 

Posts: 128
Joined: 11/23/2006
From: NE, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: dapam03

I finished putting a bevel on the leading edge of the ailerons, and rounded the TE. It says to mount the seros again, make up the pushrods, then drill the holes for the aileron horn. Won't it be hard to find the holes after it's covered? Would I not be better to do this after? I got my part that was missing in the kit from Sig. Thanks to our postal service, this one is broke in half. It has fragile written on it. They were good enough to send me another one. I got a little chip on the TE of the wing. I guess you call that hanger rash. Lol. Is micro fill good to fill that with?



I just ordered the exact same part from Sig today. In my box, I had 2 sheets of ply formers and only 1 sheet of the fuselage halves. Should have been reversed. They must have been training the new guy.

Other than that, this is the most impressive kit I have ever seen in terms of wood quality and the cutting. I am enjoying building it for the last few weeks. I am going to put the twin elevator and single rudder servos in the tail though. I am also going to extent the rudder about .5 inch. I will probably have to move some stuff around for balance but ailivators are cool.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/8/2008 6:49:50 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Good luck on your build Ghostrider32. I'm a bit confused about the thrust line. I thought the thrust line was where the engine sits on the mount. On the mounts, there is a bevel on both sides from where the engine sits. It shows, the thrust line where the bevel is on the former 1 drawing on the plan, which would be about the top of the engine mount instead of the bottom. When I look at the side profile on the plan, the measurements are not the same as the front view of former 1, as to where the motor mount is sitting.

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< Message edited by dapam03 -- 3/8/2008 7:41:21 AM >

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/8/2008 7:38:01 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I was looking at Kmot's thread, and his mount is a bit higher which I believe is right. That would mean that I should line up the thrust line with the mark on the mount (which is where the bottom of the engine mount sits), which would move it up the former 1 by about an 1/8 of an inch. Is that correct? If that's the case, then the drawing of where the mounts are on the former 1 on the plan is inaccurate. I believe the side profile on the plans is the accurate one.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/8/2008 6:24:50 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Here is the pics, I had trouble getting some good ones. Wish my daughter was here, she's a professional photographer.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/8/2008 7:23:36 PM   
iron eagel



Posts: 1211
Joined: 7/15/2004
From: Middleboro, MA, USA
Status: offline 		The flat part of the mout that the engine sits on is what you line up with the thrust line on the firewall. I believe there is a small mark on the outside of the mount that shows the flat surface of the inside of the mount.

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< Message edited by iron eagel -- 3/8/2008 7:30:13 PM >

_____________________________

The Wrights never crashed, they only had hard landings. I 've had some hard landings myself. AMA EAA AOPA revver #185

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/8/2008 10:19:36 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Iron Eagle, thanks. I sort of figured that, but I didn't want to move on until I was absolutely sure. The drawing of former 1 has the lines right, but the picture of the mounts are wrong. That's what was so confusing. The side profile on the drawings show it the right way. I appreciate the support I get from the people on here.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/9/2008 12:48:53 AM   
iron eagel



Posts: 1211
Joined: 7/15/2004
From: Middleboro, MA, USA
Status: offline 		No problem, good luck with your build

_____________________________

The Wrights never crashed, they only had hard landings. I 've had some hard landings myself. AMA EAA AOPA revver #185

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       Post #: 58

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/9/2008 5:31:35 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		I did a stupid thing, I stripped one of the blind nuts on the former 1. I was using a small screw driver too. I glued on the tail wheel stiffener, Put blind nuts on the landing gear bracket and epoxyed them. Also glued nthe plate on the former where the wing dowels go. Does anyone know the size of hole to drill for the engine mount. The engine is an OS 60. A 5/32 bit fits in the hole with a slight play. next size up is too big. An 8-32 bolt would be perfect. Then i'd have to get a number drill. The guy at the hobby shop was talking metric bolts, We're metric in Canada, and I don't like to use them.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/10/2008 2:58:42 AM   
mred33


 

Posts: 254
Joined: 5/12/2006
From: Glenwood, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm enjoying your build and your doing a great job. Nice to see people building planes even if it is the first time they have built one. Just for future referance, you can glue balsa sides and doublers together with yellow glue, but you have to lay it on a FLAT table and cover it with a hard wood block and then add weights to it. Let it set overnight and it will come out fine. The block has to compleatly cover the glue area and add weight on top of that. I have done that on most of the planes I build and I never have a warped sheet. CA is fine for tacking things together to hold them so you can add yellow glue to glue the part in place. I never use CA alone for a glue joint and very little at that. Twenty min. Finish Cure Epoxy is what I use for fuel proofing around the engine and tank area and it works great. It's thin epoxy that does not have any thickning added to it. What you call epoxy has a thicknier added to it to make it thicker. I would not use 5 min. epoxy in any high stress area as it is not as strong and breaks down after awhile. The plans call for thick CA because most people these days are into instant gratification. They want everything now. That's why all the ARF's these days and the CA for everyting. CA is OK for some things, but building airplane is not one of them as far as I am concerned. It will not last as long as yellow glue and epoxy and is very brittle. It WILL brake if to much stress is put on it. Epoxy and yellow gule will break and pull wood fibers with it if it is over stressed, but if you are doing that, you are probably crashing. Keep up the great work and I hope you enjoy your plane for many years.
Ed

_____________________________

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/10/2008 5:20:37 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Mred33, I'm enjoying the build, I epoxied the fuse doubler on one side, i'm still waiting for one in the mail that replaces the broken one I received. I hope it's here tommorrow. I think for fuelproofing i'll thin down some 30 minute epoxy for that. On the stress areas, i'll use epoxy. For the sheeting, i'll go back to the alphatic glue. I've learned a lot, and still learning. I think when I'm done with my trainer, I'll take the parts out of it and build something around the 46 engine. I have some 5 minute epoxy, maybe I could thin that and use it for fuel proofing. What do you think? I used that on my trainer when a tree got in the road.

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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/10/2008 4:47:16 PM   
iron eagel



Posts: 1211
Joined: 7/15/2004
From: Middleboro, MA, USA
Status: offline 		Looking at your landing gear plate I hope that you did not fill the bolt holes with epoxy.
You usually want the bolts to go through the blind nuts.
As far as the motor mount don't sweat it if the hole is just a bit to large it should be fine.
Thinned 5 min epoxy or dope is what I use for fuel proofing, longer drying epoxy adds to much weight were it soaks into the wood more.
Sounds Like you are making good progress on your build, and as suggested you will find wood glue, despite its longer cure time will give you the best results for structural strength. Epoxy is the only thing that will give you a stronger bond but it is heavier than the glue. I only use CA to tack parts or for the leading edge joints were I need a fast bond before bending, other than that I use wood glue, Sigment, or epoxy for my builds. A lot of guys swear by elmers white glue but I am not sure that it is fuel proof.

After finishing with your trainer a .46 would be a good match for a .40 size midstar or 4 star depending on where you want to go with your next plane, midsar is a bit tamer than a 4 star, but both fly well with a .46.
You will find that the best thing to do to increase the performance of any build you do is to keep it light as possible. That means using as little glue as possible and wiping of any excess you can, you will find the scrap balsa in your kit makes good tools to get in and remove excess glue while you are building.
I would suggest that you take the time to go to: http://www.airfieldmodels.com
He has many good tip for those who want to build a nice flying model, not to mention to look at some very nice airplanes...

edit to add:
One tip for setting blind nuts...
Tap them a bit to set them into the wood before you draw them in with the bolt, if you strip them sometimes you can tap them with the next largest size tap, if they have enough meat but it is usually best to have a few spares and just replace them, just in case, you can find them at most hardware stores cheaper than you local hobby shop. Often I set my blind nuts with a bolt and washer before I do the final bolt down of mounts, and always make sure to keep the CA or epoxy if you use it away from the bolt hole unless you have the bolt in, and plan to make whatever you mount non removable.


< Message edited by iron eagel -- 3/10/2008 4:55:05 PM >

_____________________________

The Wrights never crashed, they only had hard landings. I 've had some hard landings myself. AMA EAA AOPA revver #185

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