RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old  
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RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/14/2008 5:02:54 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
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I used epoxy to glue the fues sides together, I picked up the wrong blind nuts, as I stripped one. I got 8-32 instead of 6-32. I'm 1 hr 15 minutes to the nearest hobby shop. I have to go away today, so i'll pick some up on my way. I picked up a ball joint for the throttle cable on the engine end. i don't like the idea of an ez connector on each end. When i solder it on, is it best to solder the end of the cable first, then put it in the connector and solder it? Or just put it on and just solder it?

(in reply to mred33)
       Post #: 76

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/15/2008 1:35:11 AM   
mred33


 

Posts: 241
Joined: 5/12/2006
From: Glenwood, GA, USA
Status: online
I always solder a short connector to the throttle end of the wire and use a ball joint connector on it, but you can use a regular nylon connector if you want. Solder the connector on first and then put the ball joint or what ever you are using on after. You should be using nylon on the engine connection because of noise, unless you are on 2.4GHz. If you solder with the connector on, you will melt it. The servo end you can just tin it good and use a quick connector on that end. I use a regular connector on most of mine, but either work find. When you solder the connector on, tin the wire and put a peice of solder inside the connector the length of the hole. That will tin the inside while you are soldering them together. I drill a hole in a block of wood to hold the connector and then hold the wire up to it and apply heat. When you get everything hot, the wire should just drop right in. Make sure you don't move it until it cools or you will have a weak solder job.

No problem with the epoxy on the fuse sides. I don't do it because I don't like to, but that does not mean you can't. I always get to much glue on and have to wipe some of it up and epoxy cost more then yellow glue. Just because you did something different then I do does not make you wrong, it just means you did something different. I use yellow glue because it is cheaper and lighter, at least the way I glue things together. If you ever do use yellow glue, make sure you bloce it down GOOD and add weight to hold it. If not, you will find out why very shortly why it has to be blocked and weighted down and you won't have to waite for the glue to dry either. About 1 min after you put the glue on it will start to curl up.

Sorry about that, I got carried away again.
Ed

_____________________________

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 77

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/15/2008 1:59:41 AM   
SeamusG


 

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Joined: 6/16/2007
From: Westminster, CO, USA
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I like epoxy because it is less likely to warp. I know - aliphatic resins are lighter and cheaper but you have to really keep those pieces absolutely flat until the water evaporates and the glue sets (a skill I have yet to master ). Also with slow epoxy once the pieces are put together I slide them around a bit, pull them apart and then reapply epoxy to the dry spots to ensure full coverage. To minimize the amount used - fire up the ole' heat gun. Some have suggested contact cements for fuse doublers - anyone use that approach?

Ed - no such thing as gettin' carried away - just enthusiastic about the topic and eager to share ...


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Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to mred33)
       Post #: 78

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/15/2008 2:15:29 AM   
mred33


 

Posts: 241
Joined: 5/12/2006
From: Glenwood, GA, USA
Status: online
I have used contact cement before, but mine come out heavy. Plus, you better get it right the first time or else. As for yellow glue, I use an acid brush to spread it so I know it is covered good. If you have a flat STRONG table you have half the battle won. All you need to add is a nice big block. One big enough to completly cover the part you are glueing and put that on top of the part. Then just start adding weight. Nothing to it really, but you do need a flat table. I made mine and have a 3ft wide by 7 1/2ft long table and I use 3/4" boards to lay on top. On top of that I add as much weight as I can fit on there. I'm retired now and no kids around, so I have an extra bedroom to work in. That helps too. I wouldn't use contact glue though. It's to easy to get it set wrong. I know there are 100 ways to do it right, but I'll find the wrong way every time with something like contact cement. Good luck with your build.
Ed

_____________________________

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS

(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 79

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/15/2008 2:35:07 AM   
SeamusG


 

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From: Westminster, CO, USA
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My table is 2x4 frame with a 3 x 7 1/2 hollow core door plus covered entirely with acoustic ceiling tile. Guess I need to get some 3/4" ply in different sizes that can be pieced together as a press base for different sizes of glued stuff. Good idea. Thx.


_____________________________

Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to mred33)
       Post #: 80

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 2:05:02 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
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From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
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Glued up the fuselage. Snow half way up the window, so can't open window to let the fumes out from the ca. I epoxied the firewall in.

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(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 81

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 3:25:28 AM   
SeamusG


 

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From: Westminster, CO, USA
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Thumbs up on your progress - em, snow - half way up the window? You read a lot while snowed in?


_____________________________

Experience is what ya get when ya don't get what ya want - me - SeamusG

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 82

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 6:17:28 AM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
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From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
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i just finished gluing in the tri-stock for the lg and firewall. I left the stringers and top formers, so i could lay the fuse flat when i measure to square up the wing, and put the dowels in. I'm thinking I should leave the tank area and bottom floor clear for that too. Any suggestions?

(in reply to SeamusG)
       Post #: 83

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 7:11:23 AM   
iron eagel



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From: Middleboro, MA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: dapam03

i just finished gluing in the tri-stock for the lg and firewall. I left the stringers and top formers, so i could lay the fuse flat when i measure to square up the wing, and put the dowels in. I'm thinking I should leave the tank area and bottom floor clear for that too. Any suggestions?


Yes but put them in place so that you can glue them in then you square up the wings to the nose and tail, and that the fuselage centerline is straight.
To do that once you have verified that the the wings are square to the fuselage, and both to the nose and tail, glue them in place. (I like to do this step over the plans and use a square to verify alignment.)

You say this is your first build, does not look like it!!!!

Edit to add...

Yes I have been watching the weather and the(snow) up there, Hey at least they are not going to be say your having a drought!
Isn't that why they call it the "Great White North"? AAAy

lol...
Hey thanks for keeping it up there>





_____________________________

The Wrights never crashed, they only had hard landings. I 've had some hard landings myself. AMA EAA AOPA revver #185

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 84

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 2:08:41 PM   
mred33


 

Posts: 241
Joined: 5/12/2006
From: Glenwood, GA, USA
Status: online
I always leave the bottom of the fuse open until I get the pushrods and fuel tank in so I can run them without anything getting in my way and I can see what I am doing. It also makes it easier to brace the pushrods with the bottom off. Leave the pushrods a little long in the servo area until you can get the servos in and then cut the pushrods to the proper length. Sure makes it nice to work on something like that when everything is easy to see and get at. Your doing a great job so far, keep it up. I have a Contender and King Altair going right now on my bench along with repairing a 2 meter sailplane. Things get a little messy at times on my bench.
Ed

_____________________________

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS

(in reply to iron eagel)
       Post #: 85

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 6:14:54 PM   
dapam03


 

Posts: 123
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From: Morrisburg, ON, CANADA
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Iron Eagle, I put the lg plate in, and when I fit the bottom front piece, I had to sand it a bit. I put the tank plate in to help keep the nose straight. I don't know why I had to sand the bottom plate, maybe because i used a clamp on the lg plate. I guess i'll find out when I measure it with the wing. Hopefully it will be ok.
Mred, i'm enjoying the build, I've got a lot to learn. I'd like to build something that I can use the parts of my nexstar in when i'm done with it.

(in reply to mred33)
       Post #: 86

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 8:09:05 PM   
mred33


 

Posts: 241
Joined: 5/12/2006
From: Glenwood, GA, USA
Status: online
If you don't mind scratch building, get a set of plans from RCM of the Kaos. It's a great flying plane and about as easy to build and fly as a low wing gets. You'll have to cut all your parts out, but it is not really as hard as you think it is. Easy really and there are not that many parts to it. Give you something to think about anyway. If you don't want to scratch build, you could get something like a Top Flight Contender kit from Tower Hobbies. Believe it or not, the Contender is harder to build then the Kaos is.
Ed

_____________________________

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING, BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 87

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/16/2008 11:24:06 PM   
iron eagel



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From: Middleboro, MA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: dapam03

Iron Eagle, I put the lg plate in, and when I fit the bottom front piece, I had to sand it a bit. I put the tank plate in to help keep the nose straight. I don't know why I had to sand the bottom plate, maybe because i used a clamp on the lg plate. I guess i'll find out when I measure it with the wing. Hopefully it will be ok.
Mred, i'm enjoying the build, I've got a lot to learn. I'd like to build something that I can use the parts of my nexstar in when i'm done with it.

It is as easy to put to much pressure on a clamp as it is not putting enough, and that will sometimes cause parts to fit to tight. Or more often changes in temperature and humidity can cause slight problems with fit. Wood is very sensitive to both changes in temperature and humidity so even if it was cut and an exact fit a week ago, today it will be to big or to small. The softer the wood the more it will react, so don't be surprised when at times you need to do a bit of sanding.

Just about any 40 size kit will take the engine and parts from your Nextstar, I like the laser cut SIG kits, and have always liked them but there are many other good kits to build. If by chance you want to build an aerobatic airplane for your nextstar parts try the somethin extra, I have a build thread going on one right now.

_____________________________

The Wrights never crashed, they only had hard landings. I 've had some hard landings myself. AMA EAA AOPA revver #185

(in reply to dapam03)
       Post #: 88

RE: 4* 60 first time build by 67 yr. old - 3/17/2008 2:59:03 AM