Posts: 132
Joined: 5/14/2007 From: Moreno Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Ok. First all just like to say what's up to everyone. I been away from the forum for some months now getting my health back in order.
I been missing taking my Heli out but got even more board with my Axe's looks. I decided to do some cutting and painting on the canopy and I think it came out pretty cool. Thought I'd share the pics! Tell me what ya think!
Materials:
Testor spray paint: Lime Ice and Blazing Black. Wet clear for shine Testor model enamel for outlining Axe CP canopy Blade for cutting Dremel for filing and shaping A whole lot of elbow grease!!!
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"TAME THE SKY or BLAME THE GROUND!" HPI H''Fire/Align T-Rex 450SE/AC SV27
Posts: 1544
Joined: 3/10/2007 From: Sykesville,
MD, USA Status: offline
Darn good job, DK. Welcome back.
quote:
ORIGINAL: DKhairho
Ok. First all just like to say what's up to everyone. I been away from the forum for some months now getting my health back in order.
I been missing taking my Heli out but got even more board with my Axe's looks. I decided to do some cutting and painting on the canopy and I think it came out pretty cool. Thought I'd share the pics! Tell me what ya think!
Materials:
Testor spray paint: Lime Ice and Blazing Black. Wet clear for shine Testor model enamel for outlining Axe CP canopy Blade for cutting Dremel for filing and shaping A whole lot of elbow grease!!!
Posts: 132
Joined: 5/14/2007 From: Moreno Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Thanks bud. I had some major time on my hands today! I am thinking of doing the belt drive mod and maybe switching to the bell-hiller mod as well. I am just waiting to hear more feedback on them in the forums. Take care and I be updating good heli news as I get it.
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"TAME THE SKY or BLAME THE GROUND!" HPI H''Fire/Align T-Rex 450SE/AC SV27
Posts: 6
Joined: 1/23/2008 From: jacksonville, FL, USA Status: offline
dk, that looks great. how did you separate your colors with the white? buy the way, i have an axe cp also. i did make the boom supports and horizontal fin on this one too. it was my first make. i used plastic tubing on it though. the cf is best, all the way! as you can see, i experamented with my canopy also. i was just tinkering around, but you are giving me ideas now. thanks!!!!!!!! i would like to get into a little more detail with you how you did that.
Posts: 132
Joined: 5/14/2007 From: Moreno Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Hey TP! The paint job is fairly easy but just takes time and patience. The white outline is done by using a very thin paint brush which you can get from any art supply store. I like to cut the bristles down to where they are nearly gone. This helps keep the lines as thin as possible. I also bought some T-Rex 450 boom supports for $4 and added them on today.
Ok, now to the good stuff!
-Custom airbrush looking paint using Testors spray paint-
Materials: Axe CP canopy, primary color spray paint, secondary color, gloss clear coat, bottled enamel (Testors paints suggested). Blue painter's tape, smallest grain sand paper, if reshaping the canopy you will need a cutting blade (new suggested) or sharp scissors, dremel set with filing and sanding bits, and lot of patience!
NOTE: if any pof these steps are unclear or for any questions please feel free to drop me a message.
Step 1. Sand the canopy lightly with the smallest grain sand paper to create a dull finish. This will allow the paint to stick more securely to the canopy.
Step 2. Wash the canopy with mild detergent and let it air dry or dry with a cotton cloth. I prefer to air dry to avoid the risk of lent particles in the paint.
Step 3. Spray the canopy using the secondary paint color. Be sure to hold the spray can at least 10-12 inches from the canopy with several light mist until the canopy is evenly colored to the desired darkest. Make sure not to orver spray as the paint will run and take longer to dry. To be safe I like to let my paint dry at least 1-1.5 hours. If there are dust or lent particles on the canopy don't worry, lightly sand the canopy to smooth out the surface be careful not to remove too much paint. Ignore the dull look as it will be taking care of once you add the gloss clear coat during the very last step.
Step 4. Using painter's tape (blue and can be found at interior painting stores or Wal-Mart) cut out the desired shapes that will be on the canopy. To get the "tear" look, I like to tear strips of tape and place them on to the canopy. You will be taping off the parts that you want your sencondary color to be.
Step 5. Spray the primay color over the canopy using the same spray techniques as in step 3.
Step 6. Once the canopy is completely dry, remove the painter's and observe your canopy. There may be tape residue on the canopy which can be removed when sanding lightly. You want to sand the full canopy very lightly just to make sure the paint job is smooth. However, I like to leave a "boarder" or "raised" look between the 2 colors. This gives the appearence of a tear in the paint.
Step 7. Using the white Testors or prefered brand of enamel paint (the small bottle), out line the design you created on the canopy. This is optional but highlights the design. Do not sand as the paint should be done in thin coats and sanding may remove the enamel.
Step 8. Spray the gloss clear coat over the canopy using the same process as in steps 3 and 5. I personally like the wet look so I used Testors "Wet Look" clear coat. Let the canopy dry at least 3-4 hours before trying to install on the heli. This is because the warmth of your fingers may leave finger prints inbedded in the paint. (Axe canapies are the worst to install on the heli !)
Step 9. ENJOY and admire your work! Happy flying with style!
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"TAME THE SKY or BLAME THE GROUND!" HPI H''Fire/Align T-Rex 450SE/AC SV27
Posts: 385
Joined: 8/23/2007 From: Southwick, MA, USA Status: offline
Tail Boom Supports: To brace the boom from bending during hard piro's, also keeps the tail from developing harmonics and protects it from bending during crashes.
Used parts from T-rex 450, had to make a bushing between the 8mm diameter AXE CP boom and the 12mm T-rex boom clamp.
Also DK's paint job looks AWESOME ! Now I have to get another canopy to paint for "daytime-flying," now that it's lighter later!
Shadow
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"Growing older is MANDATORY... Growing up is OPTIONAL!"
Posts: 12
Joined: 1/2/2007 From: , CA, USA Status: offline
Do the tail boom supports prevent boom strikes? I heard that these things called "dampeners" prevent boom strikes. Is that true? Cause i'm interested in getting one of those huge nitro helicopters and it would suck to break the 40 dollar boom every time i have a boom strike. IT's cool with my axe cp, cuase a boom strike doesn't do much lol.
Posts: 385
Joined: 8/23/2007 From: Southwick, MA, USA Status: offline
NO! Tail boom supports, DO NOT PREVENT BOOM STRIKES FROM MAIN BLADES! They just provide additional rigidity.
Dampeners are located within the center hub, and support & dampen the feathering spindle that holds the blade grips & blades. Stiffer dampeners may help reduce the chance of a blade strike, but they WILL change the handling of the heli itself. Guys like Alan Szabo use super-stiff dampeners in there T-rexes, do to the extreme 3D stuff they do. Most use a soft or medium durometer dampener, it's a personal flying choice.
Shadow
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"Growing older is MANDATORY... Growing up is OPTIONAL!"
Posts: 385
Joined: 8/23/2007 From: Southwick, MA, USA Status: offline
It depends upon your flying style & the response you want from the rotor head, Wild (stiff) or MILD (soft).
Stiff dampeners will INCREASE collective & cyclic reaction, because the feathering spindle deflects less, that means less chance of blade strikes during inverted flight.
Soft dampeners will DECREASE the reaction, because the feathering spindle is allowed move off axis or deflect more. Much higher chance of blade strikes due to the off-axis float of the feathering spindle, in inverted flight.
Hope this helps,
Shadow
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"Growing older is MANDATORY... Growing up is OPTIONAL!"
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AXE CP Canopy Mod & Paint! - 
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