RE: How do YOU polish up your engines?  
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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 3/7/2008 7:59:17 PM   
rexracer


 

Posts: 254
Joined: 1/23/2006
From: New Milford, CT, USA
Status: offline 		raindave, I don't think the piston in the sleeve idea would work. The piston would end up getting all the wear. If you need to de-glaze, I would get a ball hone. If you found a cloth/felt wheel for the dremel and used a little polishing compound I think it would be safer than using the piston.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 3/7/2008 8:30:09 PM   
jetpack



Posts: 1565
Joined: 10/2/2002
From: Portage, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I rinsed the sponge clear with water first then added just a dab of copper cream to it and squeezed the sponge a few times to get the cream through the sponge, and then just lightly buffed the piston and it came out nice and clean without hurting its size.

The head button what I did was spread some copper cleaner on the counter next to the sink with my finger in a thin layer and set the sleeve down square on top of it to be sure not to get any down the sleeve, then CAREFULLY placed the head button into the sleeve and very gently turned it against the top of the sleeve upside down so none of it would run down into it.

You want to lap the head with the sleeve on top, and the head upside down on the bottom. Let the gravity hold the cream where it should stay - away from the sides of the head where it fits into the sleeve.

If you feel anything start hitting on the pilot diameter, stop right away, and rinse everything off and dry it and do it again.

After the first light lap, you look and you'll see exactly how well the fit is the first time, and it tells you how much more you have to go.

Don't hurry this. Several light tries are better than one, heavy handed mistake. As soon as you feel the cream stop being gritty, and become smooth when you turn it. STOP! Rinse and check. Otherwise if you keep going, the smooth will all of a sudden turn to galling. You don't want that to happen.

You should feel the sleeve "float" with the cream in it. As soon as this cushion of cream stops being easy to turn, this is when you stop and look.

The harder surface, this time the top of the sleeve, should be checked with a flat stone first to make sure the surface has no dings, and is smooth all the way around. Remember this surface is going to mirror itself into the aluminum, and if it has dingers in it, they will cause deep grooving when you lap into the head.

Lapping parts are very tricky at first like I mentioned before, it is easy to cause problems if ultimate care isn't taken, and telling yourself to stop right away and rinse everything and look before things get bad if you sense anything not going good.

< Message edited by jetpack -- 3/7/2008 8:41:00 PM >

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 3/10/2008 6:27:24 AM   
Bone



Posts: 329
Joined: 3/15/2002
From: GraftonNSW, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		To those Aussie modellers reading this: I've been trying to locate an Australian source of this Copper Cream that is mentioned earlier in this thread - it sounds like real good stuff. I've looked in Bunnings & Supa Cheap Auto but no joy yet.

If you find a source, please let me know.

And to everyone else: Alloy (mag) wheel polishing cream - anyone tried that & if so, degree of success, rating Jettpack's example as scoring 100%.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 3/10/2008 8:34:51 AM   
the pope


 

Posts: 172
Joined: 4/17/2005
From: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		While us ausssieees are at it Ive also been on the hunt for dawns power dissolver or what ever its called and also corrosion x or its equivalent. FWIW I live in S.A.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 3/10/2008 12:01:55 PM   
Bone



Posts: 329
Joined: 3/15/2002
From: GraftonNSW, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		G'day Pope. No luck here in NSW in the hunt for the Dawns Power Dissolver either.

Corrosion X is available in NZ http://www.corrosionx.co.nz/home.htm but despite the website saying there are distributors in Oz, I've yet to find one. However, SuperCheap Auto stock a product called "Marine 66" (about $12 AUD a can) & whilst the data sheets for both products are not identical, they are VERY similar. Next time you are up Noarlunga way, you might want to check it out

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 7:40:15 AM   
Quikturn


 

Posts: 11
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: West Des Moines, IA, USA
Status: offline 		Great pictures everyone! When I clean engines I try to break them down as much as possible. I've used brass brushes but they seem to leave a shine to the finish that doesn't look original. I bead blasted the last two engines I rebuilt and the finish looks original. I tape off and trim areas I didn't want to blast with masking tape. To take out scratches or bring back the shine on areas like around cylinder heads I use 400 to 600 grit sand paper, then finish it up with a buffing wheel for a mirror finish. For the internal areas I like to use fine steel wool. When all is done I'll wash the parts in hot soapy water with a toothbrush, rinse and let dry. It can be a lot of work but you'll have an engine that will look like new.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 11:02:09 AM   
jetpack



Posts: 1565
Joined: 10/2/2002
From: Portage, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Here is a before and after picture of one of mine...however, the case was too badly stained for what I think even grit blasting could have helped so I painted it with baked on ceramic engine paint. It was as clean as I could get it with the cream and a wire brush, but I think Webra's aluminum is so porous the staining went well below just the surface. As a buddy of mine usually says, "Sometimes you just have to put a bag over it."

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< Message edited by jetpack -- 4/9/2008 11:12:32 AM >

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 1:55:33 PM   
rainedave



Posts: 5190
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: Greensboro, NC, USA
Status: offline 		jetpack, you're a master restorer. How are you cleaning all of the carburetor parts that are too small to hold and brush? Do you use an ultrasonic cleaner or some type of solvent?

Thanks again for sharing your method. I have now cleaned about four engines using the copper cream and couldn't be happier with the results.

David

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 3:40:18 PM   
somegeek



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Joined: 8/1/2005
From: Vancouver, WA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: jetpack
"...so I painted it with baked on ceramic engine paint.


What kind of ceramic engine paint and where can you buy it? Did you just put it in your oven to bake it? That looks sharp.

quote:


"Sometimes you just have to put a bag over it."


Hah - that's a good one.

somegeek

< Message edited by somegeek -- 4/9/2008 3:41:59 PM >

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 4:21:34 PM   
Quikturn


 

Posts: 11
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: West Des Moines, IA, USA
Status: offline 		Jetpack, The work on that engine is fantastic! You have raised the bar with your attention to detail on the carb. That engine looks so nice I wouldn't want to fire it up anymore. It belongs inside a glass case now.

Rainedave, Excellent work! Those engines look new. That's what I strive for in my rebuilds.

I've made some e**y purchases I wasn't very happy with when I had the engine in my hand. The last 2 engines required a complete rebuild with new bearings, piston rings, gaskets, o-rings and other misc. parts. I actually enjoy the process now and I'll have to try the copper cream in the future. This is turning into a hobby in and of itself.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 8:42:56 PM   
jetpack



Posts: 1565
Joined: 10/2/2002
From: Portage, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Quickturn! I think it turned out pretty good too considering how it looked when it first came in. I've done a few motors now also, and enjoy the aspect of rebuilding them and making them look nicer than what they were along the way.

quote:

ORIGINAL: somegeek

What kind of ceramic engine paint and where can you buy it? Did you just put it in your oven to bake it?


Somegeek, I went down to the auto parts store and picked out "Dupli-color High Heat with Ceramic" spray paint (12oz can) and just used my little toaster oven with the windows open last summer. I just looked at Duplicolor website and noticed it is not listed in their "engine" paints, so I guess it would be considered their "exhaust system" paint. Here's the Duplicolor link.

The label says it can take up to 1200 degrees, so we'll see how it goes. I haven't run this engine yet, but suspect it will be ok with fuel spills and such. I guess the only thing I worry about is fuel or oil soaking through the aluminum from the inside of the motor and lifting the paint over time. I did not use their primer by the way. I skipped that part thinking what I was painting was certainly clean enough by now, and didn't worry too much about not working or not. Their primer might etch the metal and grip better than the paint, then the paint grips the primer.

I am not sure if flaking would ever happen or not, but as far as the paint sticking to the aluminum it seems to do a pretty good job just handling it and could tell when I cleaned up some of the paint lip edges where I had masked with my sandpapers.

When I went to bake the parts, I just made sure the parts were sitting on the surfaces that were masked on a foil lined pan, and since the toaster oven is so small and the elements are so close to the surfaces, I also made a "roof" over the parts with foil too for when the elements on top came on.

The reason I used my toaster oven is the paint has to be baked for three hours and I didnt want to heat my regular oven that long. It doesn't give off too much fume and doesn't leave any fume smell in the oven afterwards. Just don't try to breath the stuff I guess..


quote:

ORIGINAL: rainedave

How are you cleaning all of the carburetor parts that are too small to hold and brush? Do you use an ultrasonic cleaner or some type of solvent?



Dave, for the small parts I'll put them in Hoppe's Gun Cleaning Fluid first for an overnight soak, and then either screw them back on a bit to hold them, or if thats not possible I'll try and hold them in my fingers over the sink with a rubber mat on the bottom covering the drain so I dont have to chase them that far when they go flying.

Hoppe's has another cleaner called "copper solvent" that works awesome on brass parts and makes them clean as brand new, but be careful it can eat them just as well so keep an eye on them when your soaking them. It only takes a couple hours usually for that stuff to work. If you stop soaking just after the part is clean, it will look shiney, but any longer than that it will pick up a bright satin look.

I tie all the parts onto twist-ties and dunk them down in the bottle and screw the cap back on so I don't have to fish or get any on my fingers. After I soak them I just use Simple Green and water to wash the solvent off.

< Message edited by jetpack -- 4/9/2008 9:00:06 PM >

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/9/2008 9:11:10 PM   
blw



Posts: 4569
Joined: 3/15/2004
From: Auburn, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Jetpack- I have to chime in here to say that your info is appreciated. Thanks for contributing to all of us.

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RE: How do YOU polish up your engines? - 4/10/2008 4:51:27 AM