Posts: 314
Joined: 3/15/2002 From: GraftonNSW, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Yes, I'd like to know the answer too. I have an OS20 FS that needs a gentle but effective polishing treatment. I have tested a german made metal polish that works well on the "easy to get at places" using a rotary tool with the felt wheel. But near impossible to get the wheel into the smaller crevices etc
Posts: 1460
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
A small, wooden handled stainless steel brush will work good. Look for them at Ace Hardware or such near the welding or soldering stuff.
You HAVE to be careful around sharp outside corners as it will leave tiny scratches, but for the most part it will be stiff enough to hold up to scrubbing in inside corners pretty well. I use a copper cleaning paste along with it from the grocery isle. It is a messy deal but it will bring back the finish pretty well.
The trick is making sure you use copper cream, because there is a good trace of it in cast aluminum, and the dulled brass that is in it is part of the problem. Plus it is all water based and rinses off very well just at the sink.
They also work very well for removing sharply machined, non-deburred corners in aluminum.
You could try just the copper cream and a stiff plastic brush if your unsure of wanting to leave minute scratches that the stainless will make. You could use a brass brush and it will not leave any scratches, but those bend up and mushroom over in zero time with any kind of hard scrubbing.
Sorry there isn't any chemical cleaner that can be used like Tarnish Remover, other than what is called a "de-smutter" used by professional air conditioner cleaners. It is hard to find and is a nasty chemical, and haven't really used it to tell you how well it works or if it will eat threads or ruin bearing fits.
Sorry I don't have very good before and after shots but the Webra on the left was very used and anti-freeze cooked with lots of grey, and the little OPS was bought new but just tarnished from sitting.
The stainless brush really does a good job at getting inside the fins, and does leave a glossy sheen to what is grit blasted. Smoothes out the sharpness of it.
< Message edited by jetpack -- 3/2/2008 11:46:12 PM >
Posts: 1460
Joined: 10/2/2002 From: Portage,
IN, USA Status: offline
Thanks Daven! I like my motors
Yep, glass beading works really well...but be sure to do a good job of masking or bolt all the cases up then bead blast. The only thing you have to be careful of with glass beading is it leaves itself in the aluminum, and if your not careful on washing and scrubbing afterwards, it can find its way into the motor and eat pistons and bearings. Its a little risky in that respect, otherwise its probably gives the best result. They sell a pulverized walnut shell medium for blasting which would be totally safe, but probably not reach as well as glass.
< Message edited by jetpack -- 3/3/2008 1:40:04 AM >
Posts: 4759
Joined: 7/21/2005 From: Greensboro,
NC, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: jetpack The trick is making sure you use copper cream, because there is a good trace of it in cast aluminum, and the dulled brass that is in it is part of the problem.
Beautiful work jetpack. Thanks for the copper polish tip. I think Enya must use aluminum with a high copper content because of all my engines they are the worst to turn dark gray and blotchy. My Super Tigres seem to be the least effected by tarnishing.
Posts: 226
Joined: 3/21/2005 From: Tucson,
AZ, USA Status: offline
There is a chemical method, but you need to be cautious! Get an old crock pot, set it on low and fill with antifreeze and just dunk your engine in for a day or two. CAUTION, this creates fumes that are really nasty on your lungs. It's a good idea to set the whole crock pot down inside of a large garbage can. This contains the fumes (they don't rise). Be sure to unplug the pot and let cool before sticking your head down into the can to retrieve your engine. This will take off all of that tarnish without any hard work, just take care not to breath the fumes.