Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Well I got started on it, man time flys when you work on these things. Its been fun for the day jamin with the radio and building all by myself. Heres what ive got done for the day. Ive got the rudder done, the fin, but I run into a small problem with it. I wasnt paying attention to what side I was cutting on with my scrollsaw and I cut one of the 1/2" braces short, now out of fear there might not be enough material to redo it I decided to use it anyways, so if you can see my mistake what do you think? Shoud it be ok? I can either cut it out and redo it, or I can take some scrap and fill in the void, or just leave it. Im not certan how important that piece is yet? Ive got the stab, and elevator finished and drying now. I hope tommorow I can get started on the next step, I need to drill the 1/8th holes next but I dont have a drillbitt that size, so im gonna wait till this next weekend and buy a hole set of drillbitts instead of one here and one there. Well wish me luck on the next step.
Posts: 903
Joined: 7/17/2006 From: Ann Arbor,
MI, USA Status: offline
The brace is just slightly off, I think it should be fine. If you wish to add some strength, you could cut up a 1/4" stringer, and glue it directly to the 1/2" you cut too short to fill in below. Leave the one you already have in there, though. You'll then have a good, strong fin that will give you piece of mind. Also, remember that you can always buy more wood at your local hobby shop.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Thanks, yea I thought about buying a few extra peices, but the budget is very tight right now. I only get pd every two weeks so the 2nd week allways gets tight with the budget. anyways ill make it though. My work space is a little tight aswell all ive got is a spare bedroom thats only 12' by 12' and with all the planes in there its really tight, but its kozy I geuss you could say. Im slowlly building my tool list up one peice at a time. Ive still have plenty room for more planes.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Well another day not getting to go to work becouse of the weather, so what else to do? So I decided to work on the slowpoke some. Ive got the W-1 glueing, and the bottom skin glueing as of now and waiting for them to dry so I can continue. I decided to make me some sandbags to keep the sheeting flat, I used T-pins at each end to keep pressure on the skin. I hope this works ok, I geuss ill find out in a littlewhile? I do have a question, Im useing titebond woodglue, how long to you guys recondmend I leave things clamped up after glueing? According to the bottle it says 30min. but im giveing it 45min,to 1hr, should I leave them longer? Well more pics to come later today.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Ok, ive ran into a small problem. Ive got the botton center sheeting done and marked for the spars, now when I go to put the W-1 rib in place it go's to the sheeting on the first,and second spar, but the last one 1/4+1/4 is a 1/16th short on the spar pocket on the W-1 rib. Look at the pics and you can see what im talking about. Now doesent the W-1 rib flush fit to the sheeting? The book doesent show it verywell,nor does it say so or not. Im thinking it fits snug against the sheeting and I need to trim the spar slot on the rib. Im not gonna go ant further till I hear back soon.
Posts: 246
Joined: 8/15/2002 From: Sherburne, NY, USA Status: offline
I'm at work, but I just downloaded the manual so I could look at the plans and the top view of the center section shows 1/4"x1/4" for that spar but if you look at the side views of the rib sections you will see the correct 1/4"x1/8" being shown.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Yea your right, I didnt read far enough down the page, it clearlly says to use the 1/8 by 1/4 for the last spar. After I posted that last post I went back and read further down in the directions and found it, ohwell at least I found it before it was glued in place. Thanks this turning out to be fun.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Well I got a little moore done, not as much as I would like to, but enough for the night. Ive got the top sheeting glued up and sandbags on it for the night to keep it flat. I got the wing center allmost finished, now waiting on the epoxy to cure. Man what a job it was to sand down the trailing edge block, I had to do it all by hand, I trimed off what I could with a razor blade then sanded the rest, I think it came out ok. Well time to call it quitts for the night.
Posts: 78
Joined: 1/20/2008 From: Haltom City, TX, USA Status: offline
Hey guys, Im at the point of starting my first wing section. Im out of CA and not able to get any till this Friday, is it ok to use wood glue on the wings? or just stop and take a break? I understand that CA makes balsa harder, therefore being better for those wings/ Just curios, new rookie learning.
Posts: 246
Joined: 8/15/2002 From: Sherburne, NY, USA Status: offline
Scott,
That's funny, I replied to your last post this morning but now it's gone. I know it was there because I read through it to make sure it didn't have any mistakes in it. Maybe RCU is having problems?
Anyway, I mentioned that a razor plane is handy to have for jobs like shaping those wing blocks, I have one made by Master Airscrew that I like a lot.
I use CA for all my building so I can't help you much with your wood glue question, don't see any reason it wouldn't work fine though.
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RE: Great planes slowpoke build - 
