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Let the games begin! I will be doing a running review of my build of the Genesis 1/3 Waco YMF-5, distributed by RC Showcase, over the coming weeks/months for those of you that are interested. This is one monster kit and at the first look in the two huge boxes. it appears to be somewhat intimidating, more on that later. When the UPS delivery person brought the packages he asked what was in them and when I told him he wanted to know if I was going to ride in it! The kit came very well packed with no damage of any kind what so ever. The boxes appeared to have had a rough trip but the contents were fine.
After spending a few hours going over the parts list and drawings the only problems found were the servo mounting blocks were missing. A quick email to Dany at Genesis and they have arrived at my door step along with a revised manual, I have one of the first 10 kits produced! That’s service in my book, these guys are really out to make the consumer happy. As this is posted under User Product Reviews you cannot respond directly to this forum. If you have questions, comments or suggestions I have a thread open in Giant Scale, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=696483&s=#696483 please make you posts there and I will be notified and respond as soon as possible.[
On with the build. The first thing to do is set up and glue the top wing jig to your building surface. A little hint here, putting a few #64 rubber bands around J3 and J4, (the long pieces), makes it much easier to hold the jig together while you square it up and glue it down..
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Once the jig is straight and square just stack the ribs in and glue down the top spars. If you have a rib that is not straight, watch the ply ones, just clamp a short straightedge on it before gluing the spars down.
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Three hours latter, including the jig setup time, and you have the first of four panels framed up! So far there is nothing here to be intimidated by . One note, sheer webbing is only required on the L.E. Spar.
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Once you remove the wing panel from the jig and install the bottom spars the instructionmanual has you install a couple hardwood webs between the spars at rib #8 for N-strut and flying wire attachment points. You then sandwich them between 1/8 ply as in the picture below.
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Next you are to put the metal attachment points on, DON’T do it yet. Once you put them on the top wing, it will no longer lay flat on the bench making it much harder to put the webbing on the front spars. They will also make building the ailerons much more difficult as you will soon see. Just don’t forget to come back and put them on before the wing sheeting goes on!
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Sorry I've been gone so long, spring time seems to bring on lots of chores....of course a little time at the local field was also in order.
As you can see in post #5 the trailing edge is scored with the laser to locate the ailerons and a 1" spacer for their L.E. and T.E. Just glue up some 1/8 sheeting and cut the skins with the supplied templates. Line it up with the mark closest to the T.E. and glue them down.
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Cut the aileron away from the wing and your ready to put in the laser cut control horn blocking. Glue the two 1/2" blocks together and glue two rib 8. Now you have a place for your control horn hard point to mount.
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Just to many irons in the fire this summer to get much building done but with a little prod from 2 Piece I did manage to get the ailerons built up for the top wing panels. I will be using the Robart 3/16” hinge points for my control surfaces. Before gluing on the ½” leading edge you need to add a ½” filler block inside for more surface area when gluing in the hinge points. Be sure and mark the location on the skins before attaching the leading edge.
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Finally found a little time to build this weekend. Had to stop the house painting as it's been raining all weekend .
Remember the N-strut/flying wire attachment points I told you to leave off in Post #5? Well now you need to put them on permanently and use a thread sealer. This is your last chance to access the hardware for them, it's time for the L.E. skins.
Before you place the skins you strip a piece of 1/8"x 5/8" X48" and attach it to the notches for the sub leading edge. Use the supplied Master Airscrew balsa stripper for this. Put on the bottom skin first and glue it all down. I started with the L.E. and got it set with thin CA. Turn the panel over and start at one end and pull it up tight then hit it with the glue. Hint; cut four pieces of 3/4" plywood to rest the panels on, it makes them set solid with the hardware hanging out. You have to notch out the skins for the hardware and save the piece you cut out to fill in with.
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Now do the top skin in the same manner. Get it sett along the LE with thin CA. This skin requires a bit more bending to pull it around the ribs so wet it with a rag dipped in water to soften the fibbers and it pulls right down. I weight it down and let it set for 15 minutes or so to start taking the shape. This gives you time to get one of your friends over to help glue it down.
We used medium CA for this step with the long squeeze bulb applicators to hit the ribs and top of the spars with. I get them at [URL]http://www.balsapr.com/[/URL] for a couple bucks in a package of five. They're worth their weight in gold when you need to reach in somewhere to apply CA.
As you can see I left the sheeting edges run a little long to leave extra material to work with when your ready to mate up the wing panels to the cabana sections.
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Genesis 1/3 Waco YMF-5 - 
Genesis 1/3 Waco YMF-5 - 
. One note, sheer webbing is only required on the L.E. Spar.
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