RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF  
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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 3/31/2008 4:37:45 PM   
brianjohnsonAZ


 

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Thanks Gents. My suspicions were right on then. My wife witnessed the incident so now I can tell her that I really do know what I'm doing...sort of. I've decided to make the flaps operational to keep things a little more predictable and will be sure to test the configuration at high altitude in order to get a good feel for the flight characteristics. According to Motocalc, the stall speed with my set-up is @23mph but does not make clear if this is the stall speed with flaps extended or retracted. I assume it is with flaps retracted. That's pretty high compared to my other models.

(in reply to normgoyer)
       Post #: 51

RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 3/31/2008 4:42:37 PM   
normgoyer


 

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Also remember that when in a bank stall speed is increased as the wings are not lifting vertically but a less than effecient angle. Norm

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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/2/2008 3:21:25 AM   
theradioflyer



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Brian, sorry to hear about your crash All thoughts of mine have been covered other than you might think about putting more nose weight in it and pushing the CG more forward, just a thought. John Redman from Horizon Hobby has assured me that the E-Flite 60AMP pro ESC w/ switching BEC, http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLA1060 , will handle all 8 servos without the need of a external BEC, I also questioned this because I had a note concerning BECs in my kit as well. I originally flew mine with Kool Flight's UBEC but the ESC I was running couldn't handle the motor so I purchased E-Flite's 60 AMP. I still waiting on weather to fly it with this set-up.

I hope this helps!

God Bless Ya,

Jay

< Message edited by theradioflyer -- 4/2/2008 3:27:33 AM >


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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/2/2008 5:43:31 AM   
brianjohnsonAZ


 

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Thanks Jay. I added 2.75oz's of lead to the forward inside portion of the battery hatch and the plane balances evenly at 4 1/8". Do you think I should put a bit more to get the nose down a little or perhaps put lead in a different place entirely? The manual say they had to add 2oz's to the inside of the cowling. I was surprised that I needed that much weight with the already heavy set-up I have. The 32E is 7oz, my battery is 12.7oz and the ESC is 2.3oz. The difference may be offset a bit since I do not have flap servos/hardware installed.

As soon as I get my new canopy I'll take her up again but I'm a bit worried about not having flaps. Do you think they make that much difference? I'm changing my power set up too as the plane seemed to lumber on take off. I'll be running a 13x8.5 prop instead of the 12x8 I ran for the maiden flight. My 5000 mAh, 10C battery can handle this larger size prop and according to Motocalc will pull about 37 amps with a static pitch speed of 56 mph. It gets hot here in Arizona during the spring and summer months so the hotter is gets the more I have to play with my set up and the less opportunity I have to fly.

Thanks again.

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       Post #: 54

RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/2/2008 9:46:50 PM   
theradioflyer



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4 1/8th is right where I'm at. You may want to try adding just a bit more and see how it flies. This should fly without flaps. Have you checked your wind incidence especially the tips? I had to correct mine a lot to get 2 degrees washout in the tips, my wings were not close to even. I flew again today and had another positive flight. One thing I noticed is I have a hard time not bleeding too much speed off in the turns. I coordinate my turns with the rudder and all but she just slows down. I try to fly very scale, NO yank and bank. For landing I kept it pretty hot and settled in down field. It ground loops really easy on pavement, after a while I'll probably have to repair the wing tips!

I hope this helps.

God Bless!

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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/2/2008 11:01:15 PM   
Greg Covey



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I'm using the Retractable Landing Gear option on my model with the stock Hangar 9 2-1/2" wheels. As with most retracts, patience and experience help a great deal.

When cutting away the covering over the wheel wells, the manual gives a great tip to leave 1/16" from the inside edges so that covering and trim irons can be used for a cleaner look. The JR NES-791 Low-Profile Retract Servo mounted perfectly. I decided not to use wheel collars as keepers on the servo arm since there was no way for the rod to slip off. The servo arm is shown in the gear down position so you can see the proper length needed to lock the wheels in both up and down positions. You obtain this position by adjusting the clevis on the control rod.

I did have a fit problem with the clevis pin in the retract arm. The hole in the retract arm was too small and the end too thick for a proper snap on the clevis pin. I was able to press it into position with pliers and then use the rubber ring keeper to make it secure but the ends were not properly designed for each other.

I used Dubro 1/8" Plated Brass Collars (#139) to secure my wheels. Since the Robart retract mains are slightly thicker than the stock non-retractable mains, you need to drill the center holes of the stock wheels for a proper spin.

In addition to the lock check, you may need to slightly bend the retract mains for the wheel to properly fit in the center of the well.




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< Message edited by Greg Covey -- 4/3/2008 12:46:04 AM >


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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/3/2008 2:36:53 AM   
brianjohnsonAZ


 

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Jay..are you using flaps? Like I said, I'm a bit fearful not to.

As for the weight, I added another 1.5oz of lead to the nose and it came down a touch...barely noticeable in fact. I'm going to have to move up to the Power 46 motor if I add anymore weight...

Do you program your radio to mix rudder into the ailerons for coordinated flight or do you coordinate manually? I'm starting with a mix of 30% rudder. How about you?

On another topic, with your's balanced, did you have to use much up elevator trim in flight? I had to use quite a bit. I think my issue was due to having an improper static rig setting as it's difficult to tell how to visually rig the elevators. I took what I though was the best line and went from there but have since fine tuned the static adjustments on the control horns and clevis's. I'm not using separate channels for each elevator either. I just have them on a y harness with one servo reversed.

Brian

(in reply to Greg Covey)
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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/3/2008 2:58:17 AM   
theradioflyer



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Hey Brian, I do have flaps and use them. 10% for takeoff and 30% to land. If your using the Power 32 it doesn't seem like you need all of that weight, but who knows. I fly the rudder and no mix. Do you have an incident meter to check your wing to your stab? I have 2 clicks of down, no aileron, and 6 clicks of right rudder to fly straight. CG is 4 to 4 1/8" back from the front of the wheel openings. I never checked it after I installed the scale wheels and the E-Flite ESC. I hope you can get this bird figured out, it's spectacular to see flying around.

I keep reading your first post trying to see if I'm missing anything, the only thing that stuck out in my mind was your previous planes. All of them will slow up MUCH more than this plane. When I turned on final today I was at half throttle. I didn't cut the throttle until my nose was pointed down and I crossed the "fence" at 10 feet up and that's starting full flaps on the downwind leg.. Normal flying is half to 3/4 with the Power 25, full throttle only on loops and rolls. This Texan has typical warbird traits.
One more- I've read that you don't get a big power increase from the 25 to the 32 with a 3s battery, most are using 4s batts with the 32 in the Texan.

I really hope I'm helping

God Bless!

Jay

< Message edited by theradioflyer -- 4/3/2008 3:29:21 AM >


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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/3/2008 3:32:33 AM   
brianjohnsonAZ


 

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I imagine the extra weight I had to add is due to not having flap servos, retracts, or the associated hardware. Another factor is my battery. It's 12.7 oz's and is probably contributing to the CG issue since it takes up the entire battery tray area and can't be moved any farther forward.

I don't have an incident meter so maybe it will be worthwhile to get one. As for trim, I had to use 15 clicks up, but that was probably due to not having the elevators set up right to begin with. I expect much less if any now. 4 clicks left aileron(this was probably due to elevator not being set up properly) and no rudder. I'll see how she flies with the added weight and new surface set up.

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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/5/2008 9:06:12 PM   
Greg Covey



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The Spektrum AR6200 6-channel modules easily mounted inside the AT-6 fuselage using servo tape. The second receiver module is mounted at a right angle for best reception. The E-flite 60-amp Pro Brushless ESC was mounted near the firewall using a hook-n-loop strap to hold it securely in place.

The ThunderPower 4200mAh pack was mounted next to the firewall on the top side of the fuselage using a pad of Velcro on the bottom to keep it from sliding aft, and two hook-n-loop straps. Note the On/Off switch from the ESC is tie-wrapped to a side post for easy access inside, once the magnetic hatch is removed.

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< Message edited by Greg Covey -- 4/5/2008 9:11:34 PM >


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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/6/2008 4:43:14 AM   
theradioflyer



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Greg, would you mind posting a pic of how you have the second receiver module mounted?

Thanks,

Jay

_____________________________

I dig up so much dirt with the Prop, they call me the farmer.

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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/6/2008 12:53:11 PM   
Greg Covey



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Jay,

The AR6200 dual receiver is key to the system’s incredibly robust RF link. Comprised of a compact main receiver that is linked to an even smaller satellite receiver by a 6” lead, the AR6200 acts as a pair of extremely sharp RF “eyes” that each take in a slightly different view of the signal environment. Information from both receivers is then processed by patent-pending Spektrum software that takes information from each receiver and combines it to form the most vivid “picture” of an RF signal than has ever been possible in RC before.

What’s more, there are no long pesky antennas to accommodate so your AT-6 looks even more scale. The AR6200’s short 3” antennas don’t require any external exposure, so installation is an absolute breeze. Note the right angle mounting between the two receivers for best possible reception.

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RE: E-Flite AT-6 Texan 25 ARF - 4/6/2008 1:00:30 PM