Outlaw Build E/Lite  
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Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 12:45:37 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I've had Jerry's Outlaw plans for 13 years and never had enough rainy days to get one started so the EXTREMEFLIGHT ARF was a HOLY COW, I got to get one. I pitted with Jerry @ E-fest and told him watch out next time we meet. Chris Hanson was peddling these @ Perry so I scored a real deal.

I always strive to build any model with my own unique style so this thread is for things I deviated from the original instructions.

First up was the hatch, As an E_conversion a more user friendly hatch latch needed to be in order. By putting on a Carbon Fibre (C/F)
doubler of .068" and a tongue of C/F I made a simple catch into main fuse hatch area. I put a mating slit in main fin prior to gluing into fuse to allow for longer tongue catch. I then cut the vertical fin short on the front point side just enough to allow for the use of a 10-32 nylon thumb screw, which was tapped into fuse hardwood hatch area. With some thin Ca and a scab of 3/32 ply underneath you can get ample amounts of thread area.


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< Message edited by c/f -- 3/15/2008 12:48:21 PM >
       Post #: 1

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 12:57:25 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Next up is the need for cooling of E gear, so holes were added to front firewall and a exit hole added to underneath side using a piece of clear 1" tubing from fish tank pump use, you can cut the tube at angle to get a nice streamlined exit. Then painted to match. The firewall cut out was easily accomplished with a 1/8" ROTO ZIP bit in a Dremel and working infront of a vacuum hose to insure it does not end up inside fuse. Once rough cut it was sanded and thin Ca was used to strengthen inside wood as much as was accessible.


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(in reply to c/f)
       Post #: 2

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 1:04:03 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Next up was rudder servo to clean up drag I like to combine draggy areas versus spread them out, so I needed to drop the rudder servo in its mount and slit lower fin to allow for servo arm. I had to use a low profile JR9011 servo here, by removing gusset on sero plastic I Ca a peice of maple wood to act as a clamp once servo was installed from inside of fuse to give a nice flush mount outside surface. Using a 1" arm on 3/4" horns it provided the recomended throws.

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       Post #: 3

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 1:21:06 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Now comes the business end. I've been doing electric for 5 years now and have not used Nitro so selling off my LAST JETT BSE .30 was no regrets.

A powerplant in electrics is a combined output of all the componenets, MOTOR/ESC/BATTERIES/Plugs,wires. with these known weights and known thrust you can get to a power to weight combo that makes for an ECLECTIC model.

So doing my research IMHO a 36mm motor and 50-75 amps worth of batteries 6s is the sweet spot for this model. This is currently a AXI GOLD motor of 2826/10, on 6s 3000MAH Lipo, prop is a APC N racing series 7.8X7. @ 32amps, 720WATTS.


The speed control is a Turnigy 60amp with a UBEC which means its a switching built in ESC that is fine on the input battery voltages up to 6S.

The motor was spaced off the firewall with my own custom motor mount which has aloot of features to aid in cooling to run this motor beyond its specs. The motor mounts to an aluminum face plate to heatsink the heat away and cooling holes in front and sides of mount allow air to pass thru into fuse. The Turnigy sits in airsteam as well.

I always use direct soldered motor leads to ESC and I added a second set of battery input wires to help pump up the amps on smaller gauge wire and doubling of the plug ins surface area since I get to 6S by using 3S X2 for the packs.

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< Message edited by c/f -- 3/15/2008 4:14:27 PM >

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       Post #: 4

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 1:33:52 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		In finalizing weights and balance and final thoughts I ended up cutting off the fin tabs below the hatch side as the batteries needed to be rearward for C/g. The final weight came in at 3lbs 6oz or 54oz, or 1530g.

It seems to me that nose heavy conditions will be the norm to combat as a E conversion. I used full size servos so this ended up being an absolute for ballast purposes. As an E-conversion it would be best to push the rudder servo rearward so that all usable space in front of main vertical fin is available for batteries. My lite build ended up perfect in that the center of the batteries are centered on the c/g location.

I am using JR 4131 servos for control and Futaba FASST radio. Not shown but a cautionary tail recomended 70oz servo specs and 45deg throw to accomplish the wild stuff. A servo only moves 30deg each direction so I used 1" arms and 3/4" horns of another liter setup not shown as of yet. So in general numbers using my 98oz servos and reducing the effective torq by 25% from mechanical geometry, that gets me near the 70oz. What is unique with this design is the wild aerobatics with 45deg throw on a high speed model.

I used thin Ca on servo hatches and mounting holes to stiffen all the wood up.

Here final hatch layout pix.

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< Message edited by c/f -- 3/15/2008 1:39:22 PM >

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       Post #: 5

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 2:18:29 PM   
freakingfast


 

Posts: 800
Joined: 1/3/2005
From: mather, CA, USA
Status: online 		Well we now know what is the largest battery that can be stuffed into an Outlaw is! LOL.
I like what you did with the rudder servo, you got me re-thinking my install.
Nice job, shows innovation, two thumbs up


< Message edited by freakingfast -- 3/15/2008 2:25:38 PM >

_____________________________

When in doubt, give it full power. The smaller
pieces fit easier in the bag! Revver Bro #201

(in reply to c/f)
       Post #: 6

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 3:00:28 PM   
evan-RCU



Posts: 2672
Joined: 2/4/2002
From: Charlotte, NC, USA
Status: offline 		hmmm I have a 2826/10 and a 5S 2200 and a PH80 laying around....

While I'm very interested in what this set up will do I thing the 2826/10 really isn't meant for a set up like this... I have a Neu 1509/2.5D that would be sweet in an Outlaw...

But the bottom line that some people have forgotten is the Outlaw is an Aerobat not really an all out speed plane, thinking like that I think th AXI is going to be as good if not better/ much better than a .32 to .36 glow set up. Please video it if you can.

20k rpm on a 7 pitch prop is going to be wild!!

_____________________________

Revver #125, Pico Owners Club #3
R/C Anonymous. My name is Evan and I have not flown for 14 hours.

(in reply to freakingfast)
       Post #: 7

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 4:38:06 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Thanx guys,

I had to edit that rpm/MPH, my tach has to be screwy, thats to low of watts into that prop for that speed. Anyways it does pull out of my hands in vertical so its more than 54oz thrust thats all I know for sure till I get a tach other than mine. Good enough for maiden.

As for battery bay in the photo there is nothing inside the fuse forward of the front hatch seam. here is a photo of 20/30C 2300 sized packs, as you can see it can fit a 2up of 2300 6S to fill the entire bay. It balances nose heavy but for speed it would be fine, It may loose some elevator authority is my guess as the C/g is really calculated for the extreme aerobatic flight envelope.

With this amount of batteries the weight climbs to 4lbs 1oz but that would be 100 amps of 6s power for 3 minutes with some throttle management.

The ARC brand of motors are working with 36mm innrunners know and it would end up liter than the AXI and it will be available in 900Kv-1900Kv winds.

This plane is going to turn some heads even more so as an electric as the motor is less likely to flame out in extreme G manuevers. A carb or a pump cannot overcome Gforce over atmosphere to keep your fuel flowing.

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< Message edited by c/f -- 3/15/2008 4:45:01 PM >

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       Post #: 8

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 4:41:37 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Heres finished rudder linkage. I dropped down to 5/8" on the horn to reduce throws on servo given the geometry. I'm getting over 45deg throw on 70% EPA.



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RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 5:00:42 PM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		And a final weight saving feature. That bag of hardware made me ill when I seen its bulk size for drag and weight on the scale 2oz.
So I used some time proven linkage from my RC Combat days when I ran 100+MPH JETT 30 powered combat ships and needed hardware to withstand speed of 68" of ailerons and midair breakages of horns.

(Believe it or not in combat duty the Dubro HD servo arms broke easier than stock JR nylon I can only guess they were to brittle with impacts)

I use Kraft/Hayes clevis/wire combo paired with a mating C/F tube over sleeve with aluminum sleeves Ca to outside diameter near ends to insure it does not split lengthwise. The Kraft clevis is plastic with a metal pin. In combat without a silicone keeper they never opened up in flight. The other end is of a traditional Z bend. Tite and lite

The horns are 3 screw bolt thru, Robart Ball link style with the ball Ca in position.

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RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/15/2008 8:12:09 PM   
rmenke


 

Posts: 1773
Joined: 6/25/2004
From: Merced, Ca., CA, USA
Status: offline
c/f

Really enjoyed your build up to this point of selling your little Jett 30. Am sure the new owner is overjoyed and will run the thing for another 5 years, and it will still be tight. Excuse me for a few moments while I go get sick.----- Admit that I love my foamys, AJ Extra and Katana MD, building a Multiplex Fun Jett etc., but they will have to pry my Jett engines out of my cold dead hands. Not for sale, loan or any other thing that would take them out of sight, hands, and shop. Am jazzed with the outlaw airframe and see where my 74th birthday money is going to go shortly. Will need something in the delta design to play with, the funjett is very small, designed for 140 plus, anticipated longivity is short considering deminishing flying ability.

Ok, all you wing-thing pilots must have some sort of pvc pipe ramp launcher that is a proven system. Need one in the worst way that will accomodate both tractor and pusher style wings. A dolley is out for a pusher type do to the needed clearance. How would you like to hand launch a delta wing with Jett 35 to 60 screaming up front for a crazy 74 year old half blind guy? Yea, me neither. Most of my flying buds trust a bunch & would, but I'm not comfortable with asking at this point. A pic would be most appreciated. Promise not to fly it at your field!! ENJOY

(in reply to c/f)
       Post #: 11

RE: Outlaw Build E/Lite - 3/16/2008 6:27:09 AM   
c/f


 

Posts: 560
Joined: 1/30/2002
From: evansville, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Menke,

I still have one Sport Jett .40 on a RevOlution Q500. And a NIB Nelson .50, but JET A and 40lbs of thrust gets it done for me in the speed MOJO these days.

Anyhow I ended up blinigng out the front end with a cheel cowl. I laid a piece of 6MM Depron on the firewall, traced the outline, then temporary tach glued it in place. I then used some 2mm Depron and heated up with a heat gun and wrapped it to shape of nose. Once cool I glued it to 6mm then made a second rib to narrow the front end more. Then I just taped it on the fuse with blenderm and cover wrapped it all with Black sign vinyl, added a few stickers to bling it out, form and function with litte weight.



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