Remote Needle Valve (Full Version)

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MustangAce -> Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 2:14:51 AM)

Do I have to use a pressurized tank with the BSE .35? I was thinking all I needed was a clunk line and vent line from the fuel tank. I noticed the remote needle valve had two fuel fittings not just one. I know the one adjacent to the needle goes to the carb?? Help, thanks.



daven -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 1:37:29 PM)

No you do not need to run a pressurized tank, but I would recommend a bladder or "bubbless" tank from either Tetra or Jett.

One nipple goes to the fuel tank clunk line, and the other to the carb.



MustangAce -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 1:47:13 PM)

I assume the one adjacent to the needle goes to the carb and the one opposite the needle goes to the clunk line right??




still4given -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 4:33:05 PM)

I don' believe the remote needle assembly is directional. I think it can be hooked up either way.



Pathous -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 4:53:46 PM)

It doesn't matter which way you hook up the needle. I have routed them both ways and works the same.



russm -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 6:55:36 PM)

my 90lx was sputering at full throttle until i switched the lines around to match what you would see on a os needle valve. does it make a difference???????? whats bobs opinion?



rmenke -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/16/2008 9:03:10 PM)

Pathos:

In the past, Bob and Dub have said no difference, use either line. What ya gonna be doing with that 35? If normal sport flying, a standard tank is fine. If your going to pylon turn a lot, go to the Jett bladder tank. They work fine, include all the fuel line you need and are cheeper than the Tetra, and come complete, no building. Spend the time and read through the Jett web site. Info is free, great education on stuff you should know, and problem solving. Its there for everyone, intended for Jett customers who tend to talk a lot. Think of it as reading the bible, the source is great, knowledge beyond reporach and will make a better person out of you. Ohhhhh did I say that? ENJOY

russum: My 90 L also did the same thing which prompted a call to Dub. Said something like ritchen it up, are you keeping up with your medication old man!!



MustangAce -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/17/2008 1:50:40 AM)

Ran the engine today for the first time. Flew it on the Extreme Flight (Jerry L Smith) Outlaw. Wow, what a rocket! Had some trouble on the last flight getting it to run up to full power without quitting.

I hope I ran it rich enough to break it in properly. Got 16,800 on the APC 9/6 on the ground the last tach/tune.



bob27s -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/17/2008 3:37:19 PM)

Hi... thanks for writing......

I strongly recommend using muffler pressure. You do not have to use a bubble-tank, but you DO want to use muffler pressure on the fuel tank. The Jett carb does not have a huge fuel draw on its own, it needs the tank pressure to run properly.

I have run the fuel lines to and from the needle either way. Has not affected engine performance in my experience. On the Q-500 installations I usually have the fuel "enter" the center port, and exit the end. Just easier to install that way.

But I understand what was noted about the "normal" location which would be the outlet of the spraybar into the venturi on a conventinal installation. In that case it would make a bit of a difference, because the size/shape of the hole in the spray bar would assist the atomization of the fuel as it entered the venturi.

If you find it makes a difference in the installation --- by all means use it the way it seems to perform the best.

The delta type planes are hard on the fuel installs. Fuel foam can and will happen unless the tank is well padded and not touching anything.

Im pleased to hear the plane flys well !!!

The engine run-in process is important before flying - a 9x6 is the wrong prop for run-in. Makes a difference in reliability and engine power over time to do this right. I would suggest an 8x6, 9x4 or clipped down 9x6 for break-in. You are looking for somewhere around 18,000 rpm or better while being slightly rich.

RPM wise, you target peak ground rpm is "over" 17,000 rpm. That is where the muffler become fully effective. Prop accordingly.

The rpm you noted was close enough - and if a bit rich, that was pretty much in line with what you are looking for.

My BSE-35 was turning over 18,000 peak ground rpm on the 9x6 after half an hour initial run time and then another half hour flying with the lighter props. In fact, I eventually went to a 9x5 prop ..... the engine howled with it and was super easy to needle. And it handled the 9x6 just fine too.

When in doubt, error on the rich side. If you hear the engine go lean in flight or blow plugs from that point.... review the fuel system.

For flight, on that engine always back down a good 600-800 rpm for launch. It jumps on the muffler in the air and really needs the extra fuel.

Bob



MustangAce -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/18/2008 2:42:18 AM)

Thanks Bob, for the info. Funny you mentioned blowing the plug. The "Merlin" only lasted the first flight. Using an OS #8 right now. Can I do better as far as performance, without sacrificing reliability?



bob27s -> RE: Remote Needle Valve (3/18/2008 5:07:05 PM)

I think your engine should perform a bit better than you noted. And the BSE-35 is one of the most reliable engines out there. Folks at my flying field often are amazed by the BSE-35 and SJ-46 I fly regularly. Never a hicup, idle great, and pull the daylights out of the planes :)

Important thing is to understand how the engine runs. Test stand is the best place to learn.
Once you know where it reaches peak rpm ---- you know what it should do each time out, you know what it sounds like, and you tend to learn what that back-off rpm sounds like too.

You are on the right track ..... just sneak up on the needle a little bit each flight. Lean it out slightly. If the engine does go lean or sag in flight.... shut it down and land.... back the needle out a bit to where it was previously.

Blown plug comes from a lean run or an airbubble in flight. The OS #8 should work in the engine, but it tends to prefer a hotter plug for the best midrange and transition.



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