Posts: 44
Joined: 11/9/2007 From: granbury,
TX, USA Status: offline
I think I'm going to make some sample pieces first. I'm almost a mu boiling point! I worked 2 hours getting the retracts to work. one side was binding slightly and closing realllllll slow. ALso the maid knocked over my wing and decided to put herthumb through it top and bottom . I'm still not sure on the doors. Should you cut them so the edges come to half way on the spar. Should the mid line of the bay be between R1 and the false rib next to R4. Should the bay end at well doubler and the door rest on the well doubler .
Posts: 40
Joined: 12/13/2007 From: Killen,
AL, USA Status: offline
The front edges of my doors do come to half way on the spar. The inside edges of the doors center the retract in its retracted position. The outside edges are around 4 3/4" apart, so my bays are that wide. The outside door edge falls at R6. I had to make the inside bay walls out of a piece of scrap balsa, which fits between R3 and R4. I had to move my well doublers back 3/16" to allow for my door operating mechanism, which is at the back of the bay. Hope this helps. I'll try to get you some pics in a little bit.
Posts: 44
Joined: 11/9/2007 From: granbury,
TX, USA Status: offline
I think this plane is cursed! I finally got the fuse finished enough to pu the wing on but a have a significant gap between the wing a fuse. But if I scoot the wing back the wing fits pretty good but there is a gap in the leading edge and fuse. Should I sand the fuse so I can move the wing forward ????
Posts: 1346
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
How is the wing mating up with the saddle? The gap at the sheeting is easy to fix. The key thing is to make sure it's seated flush in the saddle so that the incidence is correct.
Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 44
Joined: 11/9/2007 From: granbury,
TX, USA Status: offline
thanks Tom for helping me out! the wing seems to fit in the saddle pretty well if the leading edge is 5mm from the front of the fuse at f3. Should I add ply to f3 to make it meet the wing?
< Message edited by mistral12 -- 5/9/2008 5:20:06 AM >
I had the same issue on my Corsair: too much gap between the wing and the wing-saddle, but wing seats fine with no gap between LE and F3.
Check the incidence (use the main fuse sriger as a reference) before taking any decision: adding ply to fill the gap or working on the hole that recepts the wingg-dowel so that the wing shifts forward. In my opinion I woud not fill that gap but di the best to shift the wing forward since you reduce the distance between TE and F6. Thad distance is wide as flaps....
Once the wing seats fine ak incicence is OK you may fill the gap on the saddle with epoxy-resin (the one used for glassing) and microballoons. I did it this way and you can hardly see the wing is a removable item. I'll post you some pictures.
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
Marco gave you the right advice. I would want to get the incidence right and close the gap at the bulkhead if possible. It's easy to fill any gap at the saddle that results with microballoon mix.
Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
This is how the wing-saddle looks like on my Corsair. There's still a lot of sanding and finishing to do, but I'm very satisfied about this build.
I have seen many .60 Top-Flite Corsairs built with gear doors on both main and tail, in addition, these models had a glass finish.... but what about weight? It is true that this is a fast plane, but over-weighting does increase stall-speed and will make it more difficoult to handle during take-offs and landings. What is your opinion about this?
Mistral, what is your expected weight?
I expect a maximum of 8.8 / 9 lb with Saito Fa125 engine, mains+tail retracts (no doors - pics...), flaps. I tried to make the lightest build as I could. My finish will be a "modelspand" cover (that kind of paper made of 40% silk, 60% paper, only 12g per square meter!), it is applied to the body with conventional acetone based sanding primer. The result is a very smooth and hard surface but it is not as robust as a glassing would be. This is the lightest covering I know...
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
Marco,
Your build looks good, and I think you are taking a smart approach by keeping it simple and keeping the weight down. My build will probably end up about 2 lbs heavier than your goals as I've thrown a lot of overhead on the airframe with scale details. This one was a test bed for me on some techniques, so I don't mind too much. I still feel good about anything under 11.5 lbs on this airframe, but it will be a lot more forgiving under 10. Nice looking work. My in progress weights are here - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7485070
Tom
_____________________________
Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
that's what I call a Scale build!! Very nice!! I was not so ambitious on scale details and I can accept compromises on the scale-look of the model if this means less pain on handling during flight. Now, let's see how this .60 size flies, maybe in the future I'll build a giant-scale, less critic on getting the right weight, and there I may enhance all scale details... you know, Corsairs are addictive!
Posts: 1346
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: marcoferretti
Tom,
that's what I call a Scale build!! Very nice!! I was not so ambitious on scale details and I can accept compromises on the scale-look of the model if this means less pain on handling during flight. Now, let's see how this .60 size flies, maybe in the future I'll build a giant-scale, less critic on getting the right weight, and there I may enhance all scale details... you know, Corsairs are addictive!
I know. I haven't even finished the 1/8, and I've already gotten started on a 1/6 project. I'm excited to have a little more wing area to hang all of the bells and whistles from.
Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 44
Joined: 11/9/2007 From: granbury,
TX, USA Status: offline
Wow Tom your build looks great! I wish I was as talented as you! marcoferretti yours looks good also. I feel like I got over the hump on this marriage breaker. I got the bottom of the wing sheeted enough to try my hand at glassing the gear doors. Should I try to mark the doors out before glassing. Do I need to mark the wing and glass with centering marks so I know the glass is in the right spot on the wing before I try to cut the doors out?
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: top flite corsair build questions 
RE: top flite corsair build questions - 
. I'm still not sure on the doors. Should you cut them so the edges come to half way on the spar. Should the mid line of the bay be between R1 and the false rib next to R4. Should the bay end at well doubler and the door rest on the well doubler . 
