RE: top flite corsair build questions (Full Version)

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mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/4/2008 3:12:06 AM)

I think I'm going to make some sample pieces first. I'm almost a mu boiling point! I worked 2 hours getting the retracts to work. one side was binding slightly and closing realllllll slow. ALso the maid knocked over my wing and decided to put herthumb through it top and bottom[:@]. I'm still not sure on the doors. Should you cut them so the edges come to half way on the spar. Should the mid line of the bay be between R1 and the false rib next to R4. Should the bay end at well doubler and the door rest on the well doubler .[sm=confused.gif]



Joe Lott -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/5/2008 1:54:15 AM)

The front edges of my doors do come to half way on the spar. The inside edges of the doors center the retract in its retracted position. The outside edges are around 4 3/4" apart, so my bays are that wide. The outside door edge falls at R6. I had to make the inside bay walls out of a piece of scrap balsa, which fits between R3 and R4. I had to move my well doublers back 3/16" to allow for my door operating mechanism, which is at the back of the bay. Hope this helps. I'll try to get you some pics in a little bit.



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 2:47:53 AM)

I think this plane is cursed! I finally got the fuse finished enough to pu the wing on but a have a significant gap between the wing a fuse. But if I scoot the wing back the wing fits pretty good but there is a gap in the leading edge and fuse. Should I sand the fuse so I can move the wing forward ????



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 3:31:04 AM)

How is the wing mating up with the saddle? The gap at the sheeting is easy to fix. The key thing is to make sure it's seated flush in the saddle so that the incidence is correct.

Tom



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 5:18:33 AM)

thanks Tom for helping me out! the wing seems to fit in the saddle pretty well if the leading edge is 5mm from the front of the fuse at f3. Should I add ply to f3 to make it meet the wing?



marcoferretti -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 8:55:31 AM)

Mistral,

I had the same issue on my Corsair: too much gap between the wing and the wing-saddle, but wing seats fine with no gap between LE and F3.

Check the incidence (use the main fuse sriger as a reference) before taking any decision: adding ply to fill the gap or working on the hole that recepts the wingg-dowel so that the wing shifts forward. In my opinion I woud not fill that gap but di the best to shift the wing forward since you reduce the distance between TE and F6. Thad distance is wide as flaps....

Once the wing seats fine ak incicence is OK you may fill the gap on the saddle with epoxy-resin (the one used for glassing) and microballoons. I did it this way and you can hardly see the wing is a removable item. I'll post you some pictures.

Marco





SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 5:48:39 PM)

Marco gave you the right advice. I would want to get the incidence right and close the gap at the bulkhead if possible. It's easy to fill any gap at the saddle that results with microballoon mix.

Tom



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/9/2008 7:10:08 PM)

Got it figured out. The stupid saddle sheeting was extending to far up the bulkhead. What a retard!! Don't you guys love these redneck Texans like me!



marcoferretti -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 9:06:54 AM)

This is how the wing-saddle looks like on my Corsair. There's still a lot of sanding and finishing to do, but I'm very satisfied about this build.

I have seen many .60 Top-Flite Corsairs built with gear doors on both main and tail, in addition, these models had a glass finish.... but what about weight?
It is true that this is a fast plane, but over-weighting does increase stall-speed and will make it more difficoult to handle during take-offs and landings.
What is your opinion about this?

Mistral, what is your expected weight?

I expect a maximum of 8.8 / 9 lb with Saito Fa125 engine, mains+tail retracts (no doors - pics...), flaps. I tried to make the lightest build as I could. My finish will be a "modelspand" cover (that kind of paper made of 40% silk, 60% paper, only 12g per square meter!), it is applied to the body with conventional acetone based sanding primer. The result is a very smooth and hard surface but it is not as robust as a glassing would be. This is the lightest covering I know...



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 9:21:41 AM)

Marco,

Your build looks good, and I think you are taking a smart approach by keeping it simple and keeping the weight down. My build will probably end up about 2 lbs heavier than your goals as I've thrown a lot of overhead on the airframe with scale details. This one was a test bed for me on some techniques, so I don't mind too much. I still feel good about anything under 11.5 lbs on this airframe, but it will be a lot more forgiving under 10. Nice looking work. My in progress weights are here - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7485070

Tom



marcoferretti -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 9:42:58 AM)

Tom,

that's what I call a Scale build!! Very nice!! I was not so ambitious on scale details and I can accept compromises on the scale-look of the model if this means less pain on handling during flight.
Now, let's see how this .60 size flies, maybe in the future I'll build a giant-scale, less critic on getting the right weight, and there I may enhance all scale details... you know, Corsairs are addictive!



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 5:32:33 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: marcoferretti

Tom,

that's what I call a Scale build!! Very nice!! I was not so ambitious on scale details and I can accept compromises on the scale-look of the model if this means less pain on handling during flight.
Now, let's see how this .60 size flies, maybe in the future I'll build a giant-scale, less critic on getting the right weight, and there I may enhance all scale details... you know, Corsairs are addictive!



I know. I haven't even finished the 1/8, and I've already gotten started on a 1/6 project. I'm excited to have a little more wing area to hang all of the bells and whistles from.

Tom



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 7:07:14 PM)

Wow Tom your build looks great! I wish I was as talented as you! marcoferretti yours looks good also. I feel like I got over the hump on this marriage breaker. I got the bottom of the wing sheeted enough to try my hand at glassing the gear doors. Should I try to mark the doors out before glassing. Do I need to mark the wing and glass with centering marks so I know the glass is in the right spot on the wing before I try to cut the doors out?



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 7:26:23 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: mistral12

Wow Tom your build looks great! I wish I was as talented as you! marcoferretti yours looks good also. I feel like I got over the hump on this marriage breaker. I got the bottom of the wing sheeted enough to try my hand at glassing the gear doors. Should I try to mark the doors out before glassing. Do I need to mark the wing and glass with centering marks so I know the glass is in the right spot on the wing before I try to cut the doors out?



I like to put pin holes in the sheeting at the corners of the doors and then do the following - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7438282

I also let my glass overlap the edges of the oil coolers a little bit. It gives a nice outline to align the door skins on the wing in case you need to come back and retrace the outlines later. It may be a case of "belts and suspenders" but I make three sets of skins in case I ever need maintenance spares.

Tom



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 8:05:25 PM)

Great idea about laying over the oil cooler edge. I will attempt tonight!



Joe Lott -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 8:41:45 PM)

SMUGator,

I'm thinking seriously about using your method of using 1/64th ply for the trailing edges. As of now I just let the wing skins overlap the TE by 3/16". I was thinking of using the overlapping wing skins to cover my aileron hinges. Should I just go ahead and trim them off flush with the TE and use the 1/64th ply, or is it possible to sand them thin enough to accept the ailerons? My LHS stocks 1/32nd ply but not the 1/64th. Do you know of a source for such a small amount or would 1/32nd ply work?



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 8:54:45 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: Joe Lott

SMUGator,

I'm thinking seriously about using your method of using 1/64th ply for the trailing edges. As of now I just let the wing skins overlap the TE by 3/16". I was thinking of using the overlapping wing skins to cover my aileron hinges. Should I just go ahead and trim them off flush with the TE and use the 1/64th ply, or is it possible to sand them thin enough to accept the ailerons? My LHS stocks 1/32nd ply but not the 1/64th. Do you know of a source for such a small amount or would 1/32nd ply work?


I personally wouldn't even try using the wing skins to close the gap. I know myself well enough to expect that I would have bashed the brittle balsa with the end grain running in all directions in a half dozen places before I ever got the plane to the field. I was actually tempted to use G-10, but the ply has always served me well. Sometimes craft stores like Michael's have some wood selections on hand. My local Ace Hardware also has a decent stash. Worst case, I don't think 1/32 would be too thick, but I'd really hold out for the 1/64 if I could. Lots of mail order choices, but they may charge you more for shipping than the wood is worth. :)

Tom



NCIS -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 9:44:19 PM)

I'm using 1/32 ply for the overhangs at the hinge gaps and then sheeting the rest with 1/32 balsa so it lines up nice and neat. This is on a 1/4 scale though. I would do as Tom said and for the 1/8 scale hold out for 1/64 and then use his sanding method to match things up. By the way Tom I am using that method when I get to the wing. I only did the stab that way.

Gibbs



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 10:27:45 PM)

did you guys just glue the 1/64 ply to the trailing edge and let it then cover the hinge gap and finally sand the ply's leading edge to blend it into the wing? How far back does the ply go to the alerion?



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/13/2008 10:46:40 PM)

Here's how I do it as well as a photo of how it should look http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7478259

Tom



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/15/2008 3:47:25 AM)

making sloooow progress. Finally, starting to glass the gear doors. I have placed 3 pieces of 2oz cloth on each wing using the ez lam expoxy. This stuff is so easy to use esp with the pump dispensers. Also, tweeked the wing saddle to close the gap between the wing and saddle. I used rock hard putty a product I found at lowes that truly makes a rock hard filler but will sand well. How many pieces of cloth should I use on the gear doors before I finish with the .75 oz? Can I use some 5oz cloth I have on the backup set? How close can the F3B former be to the fuse. Should it set on top of the wing. I could get real close to the fuse but it would be setting slighty on the leading edge. I could pull the former back a little and let the sheeting hang over to close the gap between the wing and fuse.



marcoferretti -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/15/2008 8:41:19 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: mistral12

making sloooow progress. Finally, starting to glass the gear doors. I have placed 3 pieces of 2oz cloth on each wing using the ez lam expoxy. This stuff is so easy to use esp with the pump dispensers. Also, tweeked the wing saddle to close the gap between the wing and saddle. I used rock hard putty a product I found at lowes that truly makes a rock hard filler but will sand well. How many pieces of cloth should I use on the gear doors before I finish with the .75 oz? Can I use some 5oz cloth I have on the backup set? How close can the F3B former be to the fuse. Should it set on top of the wing. I could get real close to the fuse but it would be setting slighty on the leading edge. I could pull the former back a little and let the sheeting hang over to close the gap between the wing and fuse.


Very nice job on your wing saddle!



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/16/2008 3:37:44 AM)

thanks! I am working on the belly pain and hope to take the glass doors off tonight. I hope they are thick enough.



mistral12 -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/20/2008 1:52:08 AM)

I pulled the cloth mold off the wing. I'm scared that I didn't use enough cloth. THe mold is somewhat flexible. I used .75 on both sides and 2 5oz in the middle. I think I'm going to add another 5 oz on top with another .75 to finish the top. Do you I need to do this?



SMUGator -> RE: top flite corsair build questions (5/20/2008 2:32:08 AM)

They only need to be stiff enough to avoid flexing by the prop wash. If you don't think you are there, then add another layer. Otherwise you just add dead weight.

Tom



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