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top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 4:35:59 PM   
mistral12


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 11/9/2007
From: granbury, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I'm building the TF 1/8 scale corsair. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a couple of questions. I hope to glass and paint. What size glass would be best? .58 or .73 Would the .73 oz add that much weight. I plan on using EZ-lam epoxy. I would like to have an engine that fits completely in the cowl. Any recs? Thanks
       Post #: 1

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 5:15:29 PM   
Edwin


 

Posts: 3129
Joined: 2/8/2002
From: Leander, TX, USA
Status: offline 		If you really insist on glassing then you want the lightest cloth you can find. Not familiar with EZ-lam epoxy. Mine had an ST.90 in it with a slimline large volume pitts muffler. It fit completely inside the cowl.
Edwin

(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 2

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 6:29:41 PM   
mistral12


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 11/9/2007
From: granbury, TX, USA
Status: offline 		thanks for the input

(in reply to Edwin)
       Post #: 3

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 6:44:32 PM   
Rocketman612



Posts: 1983
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: mistral12

I'm building the TF 1/8 scale corsair. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a couple of questions. I hope to glass and paint. What size glass would be best? .58 or .73 Would the .73 oz add that much weight. I plan on using EZ-lam epoxy. I would like to have an engine that fits completely in the cowl. Any recs? Thanks



I used .5 oz cloth with laquer based polyurethrane. Excellent results. Have to use sanding sealer too.

Pete

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"Remember, all im offering is the truth, nothing more..."
Morpheus

(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 4

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 7:30:10 PM   
Tripower455



Posts: 397
Joined: 1/14/2005
From: Naples, FL, USA
Status: offline 		I use either .5 or .6 oz cloth. No measureable difference when applied. The biggest weight adding issue with glassing is using too much resin.

I use Envirotex Lite 2 part epoxy, thinned 50% (1 part resin, 1 part hardener, 2 parts denatured alcohol), to lay the glass on. Then I roll toilet paper over it to remove the excess. After it cures, I put another coat of the same resin mix on top of that to seal the cloth completely. Wet sand andhit it with a coat or 2 of primer, sanding between coats. It takes very little primer to fill the weave and doesn't add a bunch of weight.

The trick is to thin the epoxy or it will weigh a ton.

I've been using this basic system since the late '80's, and it works great. I've heard that the polyurethane works well too, but I try not to mess with success.

(in reply to Rocketman612)
       Post #: 5

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/25/2008 10:28:04 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4224
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		I used .75 oz. glass and EZ Lam epoxy. The plane flew just fine on an old OS90FS on iginition. The additional weight of the finish and the extra battery for the ignition etc. didn't seem to effent the flight performance of the plane.

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BobH.

(in reply to Tripower455)
       Post #: 6

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/26/2008 1:56:08 PM   
eugene


 

Posts: 509
Joined: 6/5/2002
From: Indiana| USA, IN, USA
Status: offline
Mistral,
I went over the sheeting with sanding sealer, used .58 glass, and and Blue Can Mini-wax.....applied two coats of Mini, and thickened the third with talcum powder to fill the weave....after sanding, used rattle can gray primer, finished wet sanding with 400..
Sprayed with auto paint, and clear coat to seal up the details..Clean up involved dropping the Mini brush in a can of water...
Whole process took three days, and the finish was slicker than a ball bearing....Engine was an OS-120, it will fly with less..

Sometimes, we take all the fun out of this hobby with too much involved processes....after all, we're building model planes...not Swiss watches....

(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 7

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/27/2008 4:46:38 PM   
mistral12


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 11/9/2007
From: granbury, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the input guys. I have been fighting the wheel and retracts to get them to fit into the wing. I feel like a had to cut almost all the ribs up to the top to get them to fit. But, I got one wheel in last night.

(in reply to eugene)
       Post #: 8

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 3/27/2008 5:41:52 PM   
andernamen


 

Posts: 186
Joined: 9/29/2005
From: Virginia Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I second the Super Tiger .90, fits totally in the cowl except for the hole to the glow plug and pitts muffler exhaust pipes that stick out on the underside. Plenty of power.

(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 9

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 4/1/2008 4:51:36 AM   
mistral12


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 11/9/2007
From: granbury, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the engine pros. I think I will prob go with the ST 90 but of the weight issue. I was wondering if anyone could make suggestions about placement of the retract air tank, fill valve and contol valve. i was thinking to place the tank in the fuselage and the valves in the wing. I have never done retracts before. Is there a disconnect between the tank and the wing for transport. Any suggestion are apppreciated

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       Post #: 10

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 4/1/2008 5:26:13 AM   
Joe Lott


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 12/13/2007
From: Killen, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Looks like you're at about the same stage as I am, mistral. I located the valve in the wing and plan to mount the air tank in the fuse with a quick disconnect between the two. I'm putting my fill valve in the firewall, along with an onboard pressure gauge. I thought about locating the tank in the wing, but already had a bunch of stuff there (flap servo, air valve servo, gear door servo, gear/door sequencer). I went with a Jomar gear/door sequencer. That thing is great, as I am raising/lowering mains, opening/closing gear doors, and raising/lowering the tail wheel with it. I've gotten about all of the ideas from this forum; I've just been lurking and saving information from a bunch of talented folks with good ideas. I'm new to building, also

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(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 11

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 4/1/2008 5:40:32 AM   
mistral12


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 11/9/2007
From: granbury, TX, USA
Status: offline 		WOW!! THat looks great! So as I understand their is a quick disconnet for the robart tubing. On the gear door issue have you seen the piano wire spring setup others have used with the fiberglass formed doors.

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(in reply to Joe Lott)
       Post #: 12

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 4/1/2008 2:18:24 PM   
Edwin


 

Posts: 3129
Joined: 2/8/2002
From: Leander, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I put the airtank in the wing before I started trusting the quick connects. The fill valve was in the wheel well, kind of a pta. The airtank sat on top of the center section. I've been using the quick connects for a few years now on a spitfire and now on a zero and dont have any problems with it. The fill valve on both those planes are on the side of the fuse. These are just everyday flyer warbirds (CMP) so I'm not too concerned with looks. I want functionality in this case. I have a TF giant P-47 build in process and later a yellow spitfire were I will build a hatch to concell switches and fill valves.
Edwin

(in reply to mistral12)
       Post #: 13

RE: top flite corsair build questions - 4/1/2008 2:28:08 PM   
Joe Lott


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 12/13/2007
From: Killen, AL, USA
Status: offline 		On the gear doors, I was going to try the piano wire and spring approach. I tried to draw a setup that would work for me in Autocad and just couldn't come up with anything that I felt I could duplicate easily. As far as the quick disconnects, they (2) came with the Robart air kit.

(in reply to Edwin)