Slow Low
Posts: 149
Joined: 4/11/2007
From: St. Thomas,
ON, CANADA
Status: online
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Ouch Andernamen, I'm sorry to hear that.  I've lost a friend or two along the way myself.
You've brought up a touchy subject for me. In fact, this is the perfect opportunity for me to get some input. Truth is, I haven't decided what I'm going to do with it at this point. Those pushrods will get cut off and stuck under the skin before I glass it and there will be bosses on the outside of the wing instead. I've given this much thought, but you've got me thinking KISS now. Thoughts range from incorporating tube inserts into the mould to allow installation of bellcranks and provide the pushrods somewhere to exit the mould to, ya, two servos in a similar fashion to the flaps. I haven't checked yet, but one concern with the two servo approach is space in the wing that far out along the spar. I put that central bay in the wing so that I could keep moving along without interrupting the critical path as it were, while I made some decisions. I'd be interested in some input for sure!! 
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Composites Fabrication And Repair >> All Composite 1/7th P-40E Mould Build 
All Composite 1/7th P-40E Mould Build - 
super 
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RE: All Composite 1/7th P-40E Mould Build - 
I've done it like everyone else before and made set after set of sheeted foam stabilizers, and frankly I hate it! It's too much work, and I'm too lazy! It does take a little thought and consideration as far as mould sections and removing the finished fuselage, but it's worth the work (once). The other thing is that it adds a whole bunch of time to the build, because each section back there is moulded over the previous one. This usually means a week to finish a section and get it back onto the plug, before you can start the next section. So it's about a month of layup, before you can move away from the horizontal and vertical stabilizer sections. I really like the realism of your finish - do you have one painted up yet?
- you make a very valid point about the little details that we often aren't aware of during construction, that in retrospect we often look back and learn from the hard way. Your installation method is sound and all others should read it carefully and burn it to memory. When you see a bellcrank mounted you should see a squarely mounted, pre-installed and tightened spindle, and then you should see a precision bushing assembly slid over it and not "tightened down" by the nut, but as John said "retained" by the nut. Tightened just enough to keep the bushing assembly from moving up and down. That top nut is not a nut so much as it is an adjustable stop. In order to keep it in place I like to use a dab of epoxy on top of the nut and the first few threads. Be careful not to get epoxy on the bushing so as to prevent its free movement. John also mentioned double nutting or "jam" nutting. This would be the preferred method if you have the extra nut. But be sure to use two wrenches. One to hold the first or bottom nut from spinning any further, while you tighten the top nut down against it.