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Joined: 1/20/2005 From: blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Im sure they will be fine what you say about adding lift till she gets on plane makes sense mate,i know some will disagree but i found strakes do help with stability but hey ask 5 people the same question and you will get 5 different answers on here .Im glad your enjoying the build thats what its all about,im enjoying the hydro build but i still cant wait to get it running if you know what i mean . Mart
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I have no doubt they do assist with stability of a moving boat, plus I'm adding turn fins plus I added wide and deep strakes to the edges of the hull botton from the front to the back of the transom. Add in 3 inches of rudder hanging bellow the hull, you have your stability!!!!! I just re-read your thread again Mart, lots of great info! I'll surely use that in constructing my plug.
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Joined: 11/18/2006 From: Uppsala/ֲegrund, SWEDEN Status: offline
It all looks good to me. Nice project and nice of you to share. I believe some stop their strakes short to lose some lift on the stern and get a better angle of attach for the hull and some "boat in the water". You work fast and it can be seen that it is not your first time building stuff. Your boat will be scratch built, partially redesigned and a big achievement.
< Message edited by patriktegelberg -- 3/29/2008 6:49:09 PM >
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I'm not sure if you need the strakes at all depending on what you're using for power. This hull at the original 48" length has too much lift in the front end even without strakes if you're using a Zenoah or equivalent. Mine has no strakes at all and really wasn't meant to have any. If you're using heavier less powerful engines such as weed wacker motors they may help. It all depends on what you're planning on doing with the hulll and how it's set up. Doug
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Thanks for the input. Whether I need them or not, they're there now on and damn, they look good! Just getting ready to final coat with gel coat. All sanding finally complete. Let's see, 5 coats primer and sand and primer and sand and primer and sand.....the hull plug will be white as I have a gallon of finishing gel coat from West Mariine left on the shelf.
< Message edited by Dreamin Hemi -- 3/30/2008 2:07:52 AM >
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Patrik, thanks for the compliments. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm a shop class teacher, and absolutely love making things with wood. Usually furniture, so this is just for fun. I'm really coming to like gel coat better than my usual enamel work. Seen here is the completed bottom hull. All imperfections removed prior to final paint. I have applied two medium and one heavy coat of gel coat to this plug. Seems such a shame it's "only" a plug, looks to good! Will let it cure for a few days maybe a little less, and wet sand perfectly smooth and high speed buff/polish. Will start on the upper deck once the gel has fully cured. Notice the flanged lip on the edge. I didn't want a "shoe box" fit with the lid as sometimes they pop loose when bumped (had an Aeromarine boat that happened to). The outward flange is very strong and adds tremendous rigdity to the hull, pretty much elininates buckling. I did intend for this type seam on this hull. Good for me as I tend to be a little rough with my toys
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Dreamin Hemi, can you explain the complete process on the way you start from wood to a smooth plug to lay up of a mold and part from mold. I've always been interested in that and am wondering if your gonna explain it in your build
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quote:
ORIGINAL: ByronRC
Dreamin Hemi, can you explain the complete process on the way you start from wood to a smooth plug to lay up of a mold and part from mold. I've always been interested in that and am wondering if your gonna explain it in your build
There are several lengthy threads on this site about scratch building. Since threre are so many, I didnt want to steal their thunder and basically repeat pages of already great information. I will be going into more detail once I start wet sanding the plug and begin to lay glass over it for my molds. I have 3 to build for this project; hull, top hull, canopy. Here are a few links that will describe different ways to make a boat from plans to working model. I just choose to go a few steps further! Woody Build Woody Build 2 Woody Build 3 Woody Build 4
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The gel coat was sprayed on with a SLIGHTY thinned mixture using acetone. Only mixed what I needed for each coat. I think 3.5 oz for 1's and 2'nd coats, and I used about 5.5 for the final.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: patriktegelberg
How do you apply the gelcoat to get the smooth texture? spray or roller or? it can not be brushed to that result i guess.
The "smoothness" besides being sprayed on, is also the result of hours of prep work on the hull itself. Lots of sanding, use of Bondo and finishing glazing putty. Once that was near perfect, several coats of primer were applied and sanded inbetween using glazing putty where needed. Once there were no more flaws, it dried in heat of 130 degrees F for about an hour and cooled. Wiped down with PPG Wax and Grease Remover and applied my layers of gel coat. Not an easy or quick process, but it's the only way to make a perfect finish. With this being a plug, I want it perfect. Flawless plugs equal flawless molds equal flawless glass hulls.
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I'm trying to show the importance of wet sanding here. With the gel coat being ****e, it's very hard to take a picture close up. The first pictures show the "raw" spray up close. Normally gel coat is sprayed directly into a perfectly smooth mold. This stull is thick and requires a special gelcoat spray gun sprayed at about 90 psi. I prefer 95 myself. What this picture shows is orange peel. Sort of like the surface of the fruit, small raised bumps and valleys. Hard to notice from afar, but easily visable up close. The next picture shows how wet sanding with 400 or 600 grit paper knocks off the peaks and creates a smooth surface. The bubbles you see are from the soap that was added to my quart rinse container, just a few drops of detergent are all that you need to make the sanding block glide over the surface much easier. The purpose for the water use is to prevent build up under the paper. The water just rolls it away!
Notice the 2'nd picture...the left half of the hull has been partially sanded, while the right side is fully sanded and perfectly smooth, notice the lack of orange peel on the surface.
< Message edited by Dreamin Hemi -- 3/31/2008 2:12:08 AM >
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All Forums >> RC Boats >> Speed - RC Gas Boats >> RE: 50" Project PLUG build & Fiberglass Molding 
RE: 50" Project PLUG build & Fiberglass Molding - 
.Im glad your enjoying the build thats what its all about,im enjoying the hydro build but i still cant wait to get it running if you know what i mean 
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