BVM Mig 15
- Kit
Seller:aparchment Details:
$2,500.00
| 9/28/2008
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Thanks Eduardo, your idea is perfect for this problem, this way is very easy and work fine. Eduardo share a lot of good idea for the Hawk, I hope you will fly your plane before the mine...
I have a question, I'm working in the turbine instalation and I wonder if the fuel pump affect the ICS ?, I don't install the receptor near the fuel pump but what happend whit the ICS?
Posts: 504
Joined: 11/15/2002 From: Suwanee,
GA, USA Status: offline
Is anyone having to add any weight to get these Hawks to balance? In the nose or tail? I'm just wondering as I build mine out to make sure I'm placing things in closer to the front or back.
i wouldnt use nylon horns on powerfull servos like jr8711 or hitech5955tg the splines cant stand the force i have seen it so many times on the comp-arf aerobatic planes you can force the surface by hand and feel the splines pop, with power on the servo with no input so you can actually position the aileron or rudder or elevator in any position you like , thats why i allways use aluminum horns .
Posts: 58
Joined: 4/4/2002 From: Jersey C.I., UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hope this is not seen as hijacking this thread. I have an old skymaster hawk that im just finishing put together i was wondering if anybody knows the correct position of wing fences and at what angle they should be mounted ie in refrence to centre line of fuselage.
Posts: 504
Joined: 11/15/2002 From: Suwanee,
GA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: jclittle
Is anyone having to add any weight to get these Hawks to balance? In the nose or tail? I'm just wondering as I build mine out to make sure I'm placing things in closer to the front or back.
Still looking for some feedback on the balance before I lay everything out. Thanks!
I have just bought the previous version of the Skymaster Hawk. It only has one elevator servo whereas the later version appears to have two. Is this correct and safe? John
Hi, I'm installing the elevators servos and I bought a JR arm, the problem is the link for it, JR's arm has a 4-40 hole for the link. I see Dubro HEAVY DUTY 4-40 BALL LINK, what do you think about?, is correct for the elevators?
Posts: 504
Joined: 11/15/2002 From: Suwanee,
GA, USA Status: offline
Just a heads up to anyone thinking about building this plane...if you plan on using the SM cockpit, you can't use the front tray to mount radio gear etc... On the rear tray, be prepared to mount everything as low profile as possible. It would be really great if Skymaster USA or Anton would share these things in advance, although since they provide really poor directions and just about everything on the plane needs modification I can understand. Just what is Skymaster USA here for anyway?
< Message edited by jclittle -- 6/8/2008 5:01:22 AM >
Posts: 868
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Schertz,
TX, USA Status: offline
To take your $$$$$$$$ I just got the cockpit kit too and just scratched my head and laughed. Instead of calling them an ARF they should be called a "prepainted kit"
< Message edited by tp777fo -- 6/9/2008 2:23:30 AM >
Posts: 74
Joined: 3/24/2005 From: birmingham, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi Guys, im just building my SM HAWK and have also come across the build issues in previous postings. I noticed that on the instructions it recomends 30mm flap for takeoff as well as landing. Surely this cant be right as the MK1 model only used 7mm flap for takeoff. Surely this model would leap off the floor with 30mm flap deflection on takeoff. Anyone flown this model yet with takeoff flap?
Posts: 504
Joined: 11/15/2002 From: Suwanee,
GA, USA Status: offline
I've completed the build out of the inside of the Hawk, now I just have the doors to finish and then it will be ready for the maiden.
Several people were stressing over the SM recommended location of the tanks, for good reason as they would easily cause a flame out if installed as SM recommended. Thankfully Eric Clapp put me in touch with Rob from RC Hobbies that was also building out a Hawk for a customer and he recommended the set up shown in these photos. First close up the SM pre-drilled holes using BVM poly-ply and Hysol. Then using BVM fuel pick ups and vents you re-plumb the tanks to fit as the photos show. This places the tanks over the CG still, but they can lie down horizontally rather then stand vertical as SM recommends. I built shelves for both the lower and upper tanks. They fit perfectly this way and initial tests show they work perfect (thanks Rob!).
The other challenge was to keep all the components out of the way of the cockpit kit; you can’t use the provided front tray at all, so some serious modifications are needed. All the components on the rear tray need to be tucked off on the sides or directly in the front part of the tray to avoid any contact with the cockpit. Note the location of the air tanks as well; this is the only place they will fit other then right next to the turbine.
Although I have not done a final balance yet, it seems to be slightly tail heavy, maybe 1 pound or so of lead will be needed in the nose. If anyone that has flights on this can tell me about the correct CG that would be a big help. For now I’m going to go with what SM says in the manual.
Last, I understand from Rob that the gear doors also need some serious modifications from the SM directions, he has provided some good directions and I will post the results in a few days.
Posts: 868
Joined: 2/25/2002 From: Schertz,
TX, USA Status: offline
Nice solutions to nagging problems. I had planned on 2 Dubro 50oz tanks but I like what you did. Did you just mount stuff on the floor of the fwd fuse? I have my elev re-engineered but still need to start gluing in the new tray supports. I used Sierra Precision aluminum servo mounts...very nice. Use the green futaba to fit the JR 8711. I had to cut a goove in the hold down for the tray which will be a little weak now. I plan to put a 1/2" triangle stock under the tray support for reinforcement. 3/8" maple blocks will be used to lift the new servo tray high enough to the the linkage to line up correctly they will now serve as the attachment points for the new servo tray. Basically I did what the guys in Chile did. I hope to mount the cockpit kit on the canopy so I can access the stuff with the canopy removed. The fwd gear doors were reinforced with cf and cut to be scale like. It works well. The mains were easy also as I used the threaded hole and groove in the trunion to mount a 1/16 wire with a balsa block on the door to pull the door shut. The wire slides on a small diameter brass tube as the gear extends or retracts. A dubro hinge holds it at the pivot just outboard of the trunion. I ca'ed a polyply tab on the strut door for the main doors to push against to keep the strut door from flapping in the breeze. I'll try to get some pix when I can but I'm on the road until late next week.