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Posts: 395
Joined: 3/21/2006 From: , MN, USA Status: online
I was an auto mech for 16 years, When I go to the junk yard and strip parts the inside of an automatic transmission will always be clean, Automatic tranmission fluid is the bomb.
Back when I thought Marvel was it , I'd grab a air-tool I hadn't used in a bit and I'd have bits of marvel oil come out the exhaust of my air-tools. There is a componant in Marvel that evaporates.
I'm glad Mr. tooth decay has brought this problem out in the open to talk about,
Posts: 195
Joined: 5/6/2003 From: Lawton,
OK, USA Status: offline
Well, I decided to crack open my .61 FX today and guess what......more rust! Surprise! It's a pretty new engine, not sure how old it is cause I bought it for a great price right here on RCU last summer. So I think I will put in an order for some new bearings
Questions:
1. How do you clean up an engine? The rust on the inside, and the burned fuel that accumulates on the outside? I heard XJet make reference to some "antifreeze in a crockpot," can anyone expound?
2. Are some of you guys just pouring Automatic Transmission Fluid in your carbs for after run oil?
Posts: 395
Joined: 3/21/2006 From: , MN, USA Status: online
you will hear people say that Dextron ATF has friction modifiers to allow smooth shifting of automatic transmissions.
F type does not, do these modifers wreck glo plugs ? my answer for me is, not yet. My Nelsons rest with ATF in them.
You how you buy a quart of ATF in those square plastic bottles? I take a old 409 spray bottle nozzle and spin it onto the top of a quart of ATF and wa-la, after run oil on tap. squert, squert, squert
the additive for posi-traction rear ends had a componant of whale oil, wayyyyyy back. not no mo
< Message edited by Super Splatter -- 4/7/2008 9:56:14 PM >
Posts: 1941
Joined: 12/10/2001 From: Castaic,
CA, USA Status: offline
Only 2 ways I have managed to rust out bearings and rust them in a hurry. One not running all the fuel out of the engine at the end of the day and I mean all of it. Two storing a plane in the garage with the nose pointed down with a tuned pipe on the exhaust. The pipe makes a wonderful condenser. Took two engines with about a tea spoon of water in them for me to figure that out.
Denis
_____________________________
I never met an engine I didn't like. Of the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.
Posts: 7732
Joined: 6/11/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: offline
I just read this thread for the first time. Man, that is some amazing damage to that engine caused by a small piece of ball bearing.
As for ARO and MMO, I have used MMO as an after run oil for as long as I can remember. I used to use it straight. Then I started mixing it 50/50 with ATF. Recently, I have mixed it 50/50 with Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. Each brew has been more slippery than the the previous one. As for drying up, well I just opened a coffee can with an engine in it. I stuck this engine in the can in 1978 and poured in some stright MMO to cover the bearings, cylinder, and crank base. After 30 years it looks like it has evaporate maybe an ounce. And except for the threads on the tip of the crank, I don't see much rust.
Posts: 7732
Joined: 6/11/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: offline
Yeah. I have another can in my garage somewhere, that has a Kyosho buggy I disassembled into a bunch of parts and covered with MMO also. Around 1984 or 85 I think. It had a lot of steel in it. I wonder what it looks like now....
Posts: 1467
Joined: 12/17/2004 From: Martinsville,
IN, USA Status: offline
The OS 50 is famous to injest a rear bearing at about 10 hours. Here is your fix. Get the cheap rc-bearings . The head is fine and the high spots can be sanded off with head gasket removed. The piston ring grove is probably pinched and a new piston is in order and use the old ring. Lightly sand the liner to break in the ring again. Flush the case out good and put back togeather. If the ring is loose in the piston the top of piston can be dressed up a bit and make sure the nicked edge of the top of piston is slightly filed or dressed with sandpaper. Don't sand head or piston to get all the deep pitts out. Just enough to knock down the protruding high spots. The engine will run again.
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Hey Buddy -That was the most spectacular crash I've ever seen , That rolling cart wheel with parts slinging out was cool...
Posts: 195
Joined: 5/6/2003 From: Lawton,
OK, USA Status: offline
I would like to try that. The bearings have been ordered. What do you recommend using to sand down the head? Grit? And is there a trick to removing the ring from the old piston without breaking it?
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RE: Piston Damage - 
