A little progress report. Today I started on the horizontal stab and elevators. A tricky thing to get right is the 0.4 mm (1/64" ) recess along the entire lenght of the horizontal stabilizer. I did it by clamping a straight piece of wood to the top of the sheeting and using my aluminium T-bar sander, with a piece of the same thickness as the sheeting under it for support, carefully sanding and measuring until I had sanded 0.4mm off. The pictures will explain it better:
< Message edited by Remklep -- 6/3/2008 10:31:45 PM >
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Danny "Remklep" Busch Its better to beg for forgiveness, than to ask for permission.
Then I planked the horizontal stabilizer on both sides. I also increased the balsa blocks for the Robart hinge points in size and sanded them flush so they would also be glued to the top and bottom sheeting:
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Danny "Remklep" Busch Its better to beg for forgiveness, than to ask for permission.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Remklep
A little progress report. Today I started on the horizontal stab and elevators. A tricky thing to get right is the 0.4 mm (1/64" ) ridge along the entire lenght of the horizontal stabilizer. I did it by clamping a straight piece of wood to the top of the sheeting and using my aluminium T-bar sander, with a piece of the same thickness as the sheeting under it for support, carefully sanding and measuring until I had sanded 0.4mm off. The pictures will explain it better:
Hi Danny,
I made myself a little tool to sand those insets for the hinge gap covers from an old leftover landing gear mount block. If you build the sandpaper up to exactly 1/64 of an inch and cover half the block, it acts as a sanding tool with a built-in depth gauge. When the wood block bottoms out and the sandpaper stops cuttting, then you know that the cut-out is the correct depth. I first saw this posted on here a couple of years ago by "tubig" so I call it the tubig sander. I found that a smaller one is nice to have as well when I do the curved trailing edge on the Corsair wing.
Tom
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SMUGator Hi Danny,
I made myself a little tool to sand those insets for the hinge gap covers from an old leftover landing gear mount block. If you build the sandpaper up to exactly 1/64 of an inch and cover half the block, it acts as a sanding tool with a built-in depth gauge. When the wood block bottoms out and the sandpaper stops cuttting, then you know that the cut-out is the correct depth. I first saw this posted on here a couple of years ago by "tubig" so I call it the tubig sander. I found that a smaller one is nice to have as well when I do the curved trailing edge on the Corsair wing. Tom
This is how I do it as well. I usually sink the hinge gap cover a fraction more than necessary and then sand the sheeting down to match it perfectly.
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Thanks for the update on the kits Chad. I look forward to seeing these parts and what you do next. I have used the same trick for the hinge gap tool and it really works great.
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James and Gene, your tail kits are on the way. Rusty, yours is done except for the 1/64 ply parts. I ran out of ply and had to re-order so it will probably be a week or so before I can get it done and shipped. Two more to go! Thanks guys and I hope you're all satsfied with the kits.
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Rather than messing around any more with brazing my elevator and rudder torque rods and control arms, I thought I might just order them for a few bucks each from existing kit's replacement parts list. I'll do a single servo on the elevator and pull-pull on the rudder. I'll be building these bits from the Royalplans, so dimensions aren't super critical. Any recomendations on a good kit to "poach" from? I thought of the TopFlite 1/5, but it looks like the elevator halves may have independent control horns?
Tom
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Chad The kits arrived today and look great. My son and I will start buidling in the next few weeks.
Tom I wonder if there might be a builder here who is good at brazing? I'm probably going to use a steering arm from a nose gear and just file a flat on my joiner wire, slide the steering arm on, use red loctite to lock the threads on the set screw into place, and then make the two bends. If the steering arm is bulky at the attachment site, I can just create a some space by cutting some balsa away. I think that area is all hidden anyway.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: DaddySam
I wonder if there might be a builder here who is good at brazing?
Sam
Would be nice if that were the case. I'm willing to learn if someone can teach as well. I got a couple of tips regarding using wheel collars and the like the last time this subject came up, and never got happy with the results. I give everything the old "can I break this?" test. I think the right answer is a steel control horn brazed to a music wire torque rod. If I can't figure out how to do that pretty quickly and easily, then I'm more than happy to buy it. Hate to invest too much effort in a bit that I need about every two years. I do need it pretty soon though as I build that part integral to the elevators and rudder early in the process.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 6/5/2008 8:59:52 AM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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I will speak to my father about making up the elevator wire joiners. He has been a fabricator all his life and he's made lots and lots of elevator joiners for me. I've not broken one yet!
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RE: 1/6 Scale F4U Corsair Group Build - 
