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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 12/4/2008 4:42 PM   
ronco867


 

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From: welch, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Anyone got any info on the new edge540 from abell rc 76" version?

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 1/7/2009 3:01 AM   
ramoore


 

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From: Topeka, KS, USA
Status: offline 		I have the extra 260 180 and can not decide on a MLD 28 or SPE 40. Is there room for the SPE 40 with minimal modification and what are the stand-off sizes required for the engines?? Also, I have seen JR's 821 servos speced out for the plane. Is this strong enough with 88oz of torque (6 volt system)?

Russ

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 1/7/2009 10:42 PM   
EZchopper


 

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From: Bournemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		I have the 90 size version of the Extra 260, fitted with Futaba 3152 digitals all round and a 3001 on throttle
The 3152 is about the same spec as the Jr821 at 5kg / 4.8v and about 6.4kg / 6v, which is 88oz in/6v
I'm using a 2s Li-po and 6v regulator for power. I find the 3152 adequate for rudder but slightly spongy

Something like what I said in this thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6580459/anchors_8316722/mpage_3/anchor/tm.htm#8316722
So unless you only intend light sports flying, then I don't think they are good enough for the 160 size birdie

I've just finished this version (160 size) and it's a fair bit chunkier and 1kg heavier (AUW 5kg)
And fitted Hitec HS5645MG servos x 5 and Futaba 3001 on throttle
The engine I've only got a CRRC 26i installed, which pulls an 18 x 6 JXF at 7950rpm
As yet I've not flown it, but I don't expect super 3D performance from it

The prop hub needs to be 150mm from the stock firewall
I added a ply mount and used the stand offs that came with the engine
A rear carb 40cc would fit easily within the cowl
I had thought about fitting a CRRC 45i in mine but the AUW would have been around 6kg
If you read a post by bjor earlier in this thread, he has a SPE 40 in his birdie

I've also fitted a smaller tank (14oz Du bro) farther back for better balancing



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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 1/8/2009 2:53 AM   
bjor



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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi EZchopper. Nice build - love the ply box that your CRRC is mounted to - very professional.
Can I offer just one word of advice. I notice that on your AR7000 Rx the short antenna wires of both the main Rx and satelight face the same way. I think for better overall polarity the antenna wires need to be 90 degrees to each other. Take this advice as you see fit - makes no diff to me, but just rotate the satelight 90 degrees to give a better field of reception.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 1/9/2009 5:11 PM   
EZchopper


 

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From: Bournemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Thanks bjor,
Done already, needed longer lead for sat Rx
Picture was taken before

Looking forward to flying it when weather permits
My first gasser so double excitement

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/18/2009 4:46 AM   
SudsOnTop


 

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From: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Status: offline 		I maidened mine 2 weeks ago. Powered by a used Saito FA-180 purchased off this forum. Plane weighs in at 10.5 empty using a 2700mah JR NiMh pack, Hitec 5645's; 2 elev, 1 per aileron, 1 rudder, standard futaba on throttle. Swinging APC 18x6w at about 8400 max which it hangs on at just under half throttle. Climb out is instant and quick. Using a pitts on for spent air. My first big plane and first 4 stroke. That Saito is a beast. The wheels come off the ground and it creeps side to side in the run up chocks.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/18/2009 9:20 AM   
ronco867


 

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From: welch, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Nice to hear someone has the same set up, and it gives good performance. I havent flown mine do to the weather. I love the big saitos

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/18/2009 11:59 PM   
lou1947


 

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From: Quincy, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I have the same plane with a Saito 180. I have been flying it for about six months. Its one of my best flying planes and it is close to my Aeroworks 90 -120 with a Saito 150. I think for the price this Seagull its a steal.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/22/2009 6:59 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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From: Rocklin, CA, USA
Status: online 		has anyone use just one servo per side on the ailerons ?

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/22/2009 10:29 AM   
bjor



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[/quote]
The plan calls for 2 x servos per aileron but I settled using just 1 x hitec 645MG per surface.
[/quote]
Post #5. I'm not sure why the plans call on 2 x servos per wing, but it goes fine with one. The aileron's are quite stiff and dont flex over the length of the wing. Just use a servo with a bit mote torque.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 2/27/2009 6:09 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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From: Rocklin, CA, USA
Status: online 		What servos is every on using on this plane

I just picked one up from a online store for 219.00 and free shipping


Thanks Tim

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/5/2009 5:27 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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From: Rocklin, CA, USA
Status: online 		has anyone had to cut out the servo holes for the servos in the tail I was just looking at mine and the there are no cut outs for the servos that go in the tail the fuse is solid




Thanks Tim

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/23/2009 1:24 AM   
ppplum


 

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From: Belmont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Tim!

They forgot the servo hole? No kit is perfect. I like this ARF because it's easy to put together. I attached pictures of my elevator servo with a measuring tape to show the distance from the tail and the bottom of the fuse. 9 1/4" from the end of the fuse and 1" from the bottom of the fuse. Seems like you could align the hole with the blue stripe. Be careful because you have to clear the exit holes for the pull pull cables. Maybe find the measured spot and the poke a pin through the wall and see if you can tell that it clears the tubes for the pull pull cables. The last picture shows that both servos are equal distance from the end of the fuse.

I ran into a few issue putting this model together:

1. One of the nuts to secure the clevis onto the push rod did not have threads on it. A trip to the hardware store.

2. The two bolts securing the tail wheel assembly were supposed to be installed with lock nuts. The bolts are too short and would not thread with the lock washers so I installed the bolts using Locktite. I looked for a longer than M3 x 20, which came with the model, and I don't think anybody makes them that long. So far the tail wheel assembly is holding.

3. The blind nut installed in the wing for the wing bolts did not have threads going all the way through... maybe only 80%. I ended up cutting all the nylon bolts shorter but that one blind nut is ver tight... which is OK with me. Harder to vibrate out.

4. The C.G. listed on the instructions may not be correct. Using their recommendation, with the supplied tank about 2" from the firewall, with approximately 18 ounces of fuel in the tank, when I flipped the plane inverted and released the sticks, the plane flew level. I quickly landed fearing that should the tank get any lighter, 15 ouncers lighter, the plane might be extremely tail heavy. I haven't flown the plane since. I would recommend that you fly your first flight with the 20 ounce tank full and immediately check the c.g.

I'm going out of town but when I get back I'll try to figure a safe c.g. location.

But I liked the construction so much that I ordered another.

Where'd you get the free shipping deal from? Chief sold it for $220 but shipping was an extra 20. Still a deal.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/23/2009 2:04 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ppplum

Hi Tim!

They forgot the servo hole? No kit is perfect. I like this ARF because it's easy to put together. I attached pictures of my elevator servo with a measuring tape to show the distance from the tail and the bottom of the fuse. 9 1/4" from the end of the fuse and 1" from the bottom of the fuse. Seems like you could align the hole with the blue stripe. Be careful because you have to clear the exit holes for the pull pull cables. Maybe find the measured spot and the poke a pin through the wall and see if you can tell that it clears the tubes for the pull pull cables. The last picture shows that both servos are equal distance from the end of the fuse.

I ran into a few issue putting this model together:

1. One of the nuts to secure the clevis onto the push rod did not have threads on it. A trip to the hardware store.

2. The two bolts securing the tail wheel assembly were supposed to be installed with lock nuts. The bolts are too short and would not thread with the lock washers so I installed the bolts using Locktite. I looked for a longer than M3 x 20, which came with the model, and I don't think anybody makes them that long. So far the tail wheel assembly is holding.

3. The blind nut installed in the wing for the wing bolts did not have threads going all the way through... maybe only 80%. I ended up cutting all the nylon bolts shorter but that one blind nut is ver tight... which is OK with me. Harder to vibrate out.

4. The C.G. listed on the instructions may not be correct. Using their recommendation, with the supplied tank about 2" from the firewall, with approximately 18 ounces of fuel in the tank, when I flipped the plane inverted and released the sticks, the plane flew level. I quickly landed fearing that should the tank get any lighter, 15 ouncers lighter, the plane might be extremely tail heavy. I haven't flown the plane since. I would recommend that you fly your first flight with the 20 ounce tank full and immediately check the c.g.

I'm going out of town but when I get back I'll try to figure a safe c.g. location.

But I liked the construction so much that I ordered another.

Where'd you get the free shipping deal from? Chief sold it for $220 but shipping was an extra 20. Still a deal.



Thanks for the info
I found out that mine was a newer version I guess the older version had the servos at the top of the fues and the new ones at the bottom of the fuse. my instructions were for the older one through me off

what servos are you using I see there hitec but what # are they


I got mine from chief for 219.00 no shipping about a month ago or so

Thanks Tim







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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/23/2009 4:43 AM   
bjor



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From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		I'm not sure there is an "old or new" version. Everyone I've seen, including a new one at the LHS, has the servo's mounted "on the bottom" of the fuse - exactly where ppplum's photos show.
My CG is set as indicated in the instructions with an empty tank. If you want, move it forward a bit for the first flight, but it certainly is not tail heavy - even when running out of juice. I don't recall have any issues putting it together, however as alrady stated, ARF's are not perfect.
Good luck with the rest of the build. It's a great flying plane and is sure to become one of your fav's.

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If you have to bend over more than once to pick it up - it was a bad landing

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/23/2009 6:49 AM   
ppplum


 

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From: Belmont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Tim!

On the ailerons, I'm using Hitec HS635's... one on each aileron.
On the elevators, I'm using Hitec HS475's.
On the throttle and choke, I'm using the Hitec HS425... I prefer the double ball bearings... they last longer.

You can substitute the Hitec HS635 with the Hobbico CS64 and the Hitec HS425 with the Hobbico C67. They are exactly the same. Tower Hobbies have their own version of these servos but for some reason, they charge more. ???

I ran these servos on my 50cc Extra and they provided plenty of power to move the surfaces around. I tried the metal gear servos and they wore out quickly.. and they cost a lot more too. In fact, one wore out within four months and one of the teeth got so thin that it broke off jamming the gears. Good thing that happened on the ground.

On this plane I'm trying to keep the cost down as much as possible. I installed the CRRC 26 and man am I pleased with the engine. Amazing performance and small size. I'm holding off on getting a second CRRC 26 trying to see if I'll be happier with a CRRC 26. There will be a weight penalty but this plane flies light. So....

When I look at the horizontal stab, the leading fixed portion is thicker than the elevator. I haven't look a the latest one that came in so I don't know if that's standard or they made a mistake. You know at some speed, that's probably got to have some negative effect... strange elevator response and pitch hunting.

Good Luck

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/23/2009 8:57 PM   
lou1947


 

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From: Quincy, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Building an Extra for a friend of mine and he wants me to put a Zenoah 26 that he has laying around.Do you think that will be enoygh power? Mine has a Saito 180 an I love the way it flies. He does not want to spend some extra money on a new motor.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/24/2009 1:03 AM   
ppplum


 

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From: Belmont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi lou1947.

The Zenoah 26 weighs around 59 ounces while the Crrc 26 weighs 40.6 oz. That's about 19 oz heavier. Then you'll have to add around 9 oz tail weight to compensate for the nose wieght. That would add on around 29 oz or 1.8 pounds to my plane. My Extra 260 180 came in at 11.2 pounds. That would make your friends plane around 13 pounds. Their ad says it should be around 12 to 13 pounds. So, I guess it should fly OK. Verticals might not be that great but you could always reduce the size of your maneuvers to stay within in the envelope.

When you build the plane you could install the engine in such a way that he could switch to a lighter engine, should he desire.

That Saito 180 is a beast. A nitro guzzling beast. But very light and extreme amount of power compared to the CRRC 26. If it wasn't for the cost of feeding that beast, I'd go that way too.

I took my Extra 280 for some flights, trying to find that correct c.g. I have it forward of the recommended location with the 20 oz tank full. I flipped the plane over and released the elevator stick and it still didn't head for earth. It was a very windy day but I noticed that the plane didn't wander as much.. pitch wise. I throttled up and pulled vertical and the plane did not stop going up. Don't know if it was the weather or the engine is break in more. With the little more nose weight landing was a bit easier but still floating in. Still more testing to find my sweet c.g. spot. Nice flyer. Hope you and your friend enjoy yours too.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/30/2009 12:49 PM   
bignuts181


 

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From: melbournevictora, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi guys I've only just found this thread but yes there were two versions of this model, the early one has two aileron servos per wing and a high mount tail servo the latter, the one I have put together has one aileron servo and the lower mounted tail servo. At this stage I have decided upon the MLD 28 for power and will hopefully have mine fitted in the next few days and we'll go from there.

cheers Rossco.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/31/2009 4:18 AM   
bgw45


 

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From: Haltom City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I'm new to the 180 and 260. Could you guys that are flying this combo tell us what prop you are using? Thanks

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/31/2009 4:57 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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From: Rocklin, CA, USA
Status: online 		What motor

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 3/31/2009 5:27 AM   
Mike06659


 

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From: Mercersburg, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I know some guys have been going with 26cc - 45cc but I think I found the an interesting idea. For the price and weight I think it would be worth a try. Take a look and tell me what you guys think.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8859&Product_Name=Turnigy_HP50_50cc_Gas_Engine_5.5HP

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 4/1/2009 3:15 AM   
bgw45


 

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From: Haltom City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Sorry, Saito 180.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 4/1/2009 3:21 AM   
lou1947


 

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From: Quincy, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I am using a 17x8 on my Saito 180. Hope that helps.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 4/1/2009 3:28 AM   
lou1947


 

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From: Quincy, IL, USA
Status: offline 		My friend has opted not to use the Zenoah 26 on this bird and he wants to use a Zenoah G45 that he has sitting around.I think it will be more than enough power but I am going to have to add a ton of weight on the back to get the CG correct. I was thinking of changing the aluminum stab tube for a heavier steel one. That may not be enough but we will see.

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