RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180   
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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/24/2009 3:28 PM   
tele1974


 

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Thanks for the pictures.  This is my first gas/ nitro plane.  And well since I am using the MLD 28 the instructions for the gas tank do not apply.  I picked up the sulivan gas conversion kit.  However the instructions are not helpful.  I could use some help setting up fuel to the bird.  Or maybe a link with explaination how to properly install tank fuel lines.   Thanks.  

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 12:29 AM   
hamman



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First thing some have problems including myself with gas tank stoppers from sulivan. I have been using the brown Dubro stoppers and they are ok.
 
Here is a diagram of a 3 line system. Your lines will be yellow (tygon) or black if they are neoprene. I like to use neoprene on the clunk line because some Tygon gets hard over time. I found the local small engine shop has better fuel line then hobby stores. You can omit the 3rd line which is for filling and put a tee in the carb supply line with a fuel dot if you want. I have had no problams doing that, just make sure you have no leaks on the connections.

You should solder barbs on the copper lines and slide the fuel line over the barbs. I use small wire ties to secure the lines. On this picture the fill line doesn't have a clunk, I have put clunks on both lines and they never tangled up but some oppose that method. You can also just use a copper line and bend it down to the tank bottom. 

One other thing is to put a loop or two in the vent line to prevent fuel loss on inverted flight. This picture shows blue glow line. It will NOT work with gas. Hamman

Here is a pic of a quick mockup of a two line system using good quality tygon and a filtered clunk. The barbs are not yet soldered. For 3 line omit the tee and add fill line.



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< Message edited by hamman -- 5/25/2009 2:08 AM >


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 11:55 AM   
tele1974


 

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Thank you very much,  That was just what I needed.  Is it okay to use zip ties instead of the wire.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 12:46 PM   
hamman



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Yes, zip ties is what I should have called them. Here is link for more info since this is your first gasser. Hamman
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/tm.htm





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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 12:59 PM   
maninblk



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aight, i need a report on the mld 28 on this bird before i go get one.  I have the os 160 and it was a monster on the first plane but would like to go gas on this next one.  someone let me know.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 1:05 PM   
bignuts181


 

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Ask away, I'm sold. Oh buy the way I don't use fuel barbs never have and never will......my fuel lines don't tend to fall off provided you use the rite diameter fuel lines for the job, same goes for ties. lucky maybe ......for the last 15 years, not one has fallen off! but each to his own I guess.

cheers Rossco

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 1:32 PM   
maninblk



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what prop are you using bignuts?, how does it pull from a hover with the mld?  does it have enough power? or feel like it is overpowered?  how is the weight on the nose?

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/25/2009 10:56 PM   
hamman



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Oh buy the way I don't use fuel barbs never have and never will......Thats fine but WHY try to confuse someone thats asking for some help? Everytime someone tries to help someone another offers some stupid opinion. Why take the risk of fuel line coming off in flight and risking the loss of a plane? Oh well, l give up. 

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 2:32 AM   
maninblk



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As promised, I am starting the build of the new 260 180 as i write this and will post the complete build.  This is the second one for me so it should go quick even though i will be taking my time.  enjoy



< Message edited by maninblk -- 5/28/2009 2:44 AM >


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 2:53 AM   
maninblk



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my internet is acting up but photos will be coming real soon.

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< Message edited by maninblk -- 5/28/2009 1:35 PM >


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 8:23 AM   
bignuts181


 

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Hi guys while not wanting to get into a slinging match between hamman  and myself let me clarify some people feel the need for fuel barbs and some don't, I fall into the latter as I use the correct sized fuel line for the given application. In the case of the MLD 28 it is the smallest of the petrol fuel lines from Dubro, from memory I used DBR 505. And as mentioned with my experiences so far not one has failed. This includes models from 28cc rite up to 160cc. So while I respect your opinion and choice to use fuel barbs let me just say it isn't mandatory nore gossipal, but simply a preference. If it gives you peace of mind and helps you to sleep at night go for it. just don't go knocking the very people who go out of their way to help.

cheers Rossco


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 2:16 PM   
maninblk



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more photos unpacking.  very solid construction and packaging

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 2:19 PM   
maninblk



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more

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 4:19 PM   
hamman



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Bignuts
I think I know why we have differant opions. We live a whole word apart and it could be with the gas blends here and with the quality of the tygon It seems that no matter how tight the fuel line is on smooth copper the gas here softens and swells up the tygon and it will pull off real easy. I tried one time not to use a barb or solder blob and after being in the gas for a time the line was loose on the copper. I WAS using correct size lines. I am NOT bashing your method but I think most here in the U.S. would agree to use barbs. I am really not looking for a pi$$ing match.

We have so many differant gas blends in the U.S. I think that is why there has been a lot of problems with the Sulivan gas conversion stoppers, I had two of them fail so thats why after advice from others I started using Dubro and so far they are fine.

I received my plane Tuesday and it looks very good. I have to finish my current project then I can get started on the Extra. I got mine from Advantage $244.00, shipped to Ohio

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Good day, Hamman   

< Message edited by hamman -- 5/28/2009 6:35 PM >


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 5:06 PM   
maninblk



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all the surfaces are perfectly laid out in the plastic packages(not glued).  I simply laid them out and glued (ca) them without pulling them apart.  from experience of the last one.  The hinges are laid perfectly on the surfaces.  Mixed up a batch of 30 minute epoxy and put them on the airframe.  Elevators and rudder, done.  just have to put the linkages on after epoxy cures a bit.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 5:15 PM   
maninblk



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I totally agree with you Hamman,  on my gas engines i do use the bobs because the tygon does seem to loose it's tightness after a while.  i use the bobs and clamps or tie wraps.  anyway.  one thing i did notice when putting my elevators together when i glued them is the difference in range of motion after the glue settled.  I did not flex both the same and it shows.  If you look at the pics, one gap is just slightly larger then the other.  even though both are very close.  it gives me about 2 degrees total deflection on one surface than the other.  No biggie since i don't need 55 degrees of throw as this is going to be a imac plane anyways.  But be careful when glueing them especially if you are going to 3d this plane as you will want total deflection on elevator and rudder. I will only be using about 20 degrees or so.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 9:53 PM   
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Well after pinning the firewall with dowel pins on both sides, i then proceeded to epoxy the entire firwall joints.  I mounted the OS160FX with a perry pump for consistency.  It makes tuning this motor a dream.  I am now going to start mounting the servos in the tail for elevator and in the fuse for pull pull rudder. 

BTW..... the expert on-board glow system ( in pic) will be installed in the engine box with battery (1.2 volt ni-cad).

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< Message edited by maninblk -- 5/28/2009 10:07 PM >


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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/28/2009 10:07 PM   
maninblk



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If anyone wants to see more detail pics, i have plenty.  just ask

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/29/2009 7:58 AM   
ronco867


 

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Hi guys any one want to buy mine set up with a saito 1.80?

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/29/2009 5:10 PM   
bignuts181


 

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You know you might be onto something there regarding fuel blends. One fuel line I have come accros thatis an absolute b*tch to get off after 24/7 is Aerotrend fuel line. Give it a go, it actually shrinks onto your brass tubing and has a blue tinge to it. 

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/30/2009 5:54 AM   
tele1974


 

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Stalled at the cowl cut.  Somebody have a template or something.  My least favorite part of the build. 

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/30/2009 7:20 AM   
maninblk



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what motor and muffler are you using???

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/30/2009 12:27 PM   
ronco867


 

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Look up the Hangar 9 funtana 90 instructions it has great info on how to mark and cut the cowl.

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/30/2009 7:33 PM   
tele1974


 

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The MLD 28 and stock muffler.  I have another question the manual has the CG measurement from the tip of the wing.   Thats strange.. every other plane I have build has the CG recc. measure from the leading edge at the fuse.  I may have read it wrong.  

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RE: New Seagull Extra 260 180 - 5/31/2009 5:10 AM   
tele1974


 

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Got the cowl cut out.   It was easier than I thought it was going to be.  Used my dremel, tin snips and some sand paper and it came out fine.  I did have difficulty with the muffler and ended up having to enlarge the hole length wise with the fuse in order for the cowl to slip over it.   I haven't cut the air exit yet.   Thats too bad we have to make such a large hole for air exit due to its massive mouth.... Any one figuer out where the CG measured from the leading edge aft next to the fuse is?    

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