bkfamily1
Posts: 105
Joined: 3/4/2008
From: North Canton,
OH, USA
Status: offline
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First, turn on your remote and set your throttle trim to the center. Turn on the vehicle electronics at which time the throttle servo should center itself. Make sure the servo horn (arm) is centered and straight and square on the servo. If it is not, remove the servo arm and put it back on aligning it square. While removing and replacing the horn, turn the vehicle electronics off, or the servos will be fighting against your fingers trying to keep the servo in position. After adjusting the arm, turn the servo back on and check alignment again. Keep adjusting as necessary until it is square.
Now, adjust the throttle linkage using the 2 silver collars with set screws. The back silver collar is used to adjust the spring return. It should be set so there is just enough tension on the spring to keep the front collar back against the servo arm attachment throughout the range of motion. This is particularly important to ensure the throttle is pulled back when you let off the trigger. The collar closest to the carb is positioned to put the throttle in the right spot at idle (finger off the trigger, servo centered) and WOT (wide open throttle, trigger pulled 100%). Remove your air filter and look in the carb intake to see where the throttle is. I adjust mine so that the throttle is open very slightly more than idle with 0% trigger. That way, when I let off the throttle, I will be very slightly above idle, and only return to the idle position (up against the idle adjustment screw - about 1mm opening) when I actually push the trigger forward for brake. You also want to check and be sure you are completely opening the throttle when you pull the trigger 100%. When you are checking these positions, be sure the front silver collar on the throttle linkage is actually touching the stop where it is attached to the servo arm. If your spring return is loose, it may not be.
If you are unable to get the full range of motion you want on the throttle in the carb (from idle at 0% trigger to WOT at 100% trigger), you may need to relocate the throttle linkage where it is attached to the servo arm or the throttle arm on the carb. On the stock servo horn, that is not an option as there are only two holes to use, and the outer hole is where the throttle linkage is connected, and the inner is where the brake linkage is connected. But I do not know if you have the stock horn. On the SH18 I have, there are two holes on the throttle arm on the carb. I am on the outer hole (furthest from the point where it rotates). On the carb, attaching further out from the point of rotation means you get less throttle rotation/movement through the range of servo motion. Attaching further in towards the point of rotation means you get more throttle rotation/movement through the range of servo motion. On the servo horn, if you have more holes to use, it is the opposite - further out means more throttle movement through the range of servo motion, and closer in means less throttle motion. If necessary, work with these attachment locations until you get adequate range of motion. Then go back and try adjusting the collars on the throttle linkage again.
Once your throttle linkage is set (adequate range of motion, adequate but minimal return spring tension throughout and good idle and WOT adjustments), then we can adjust the brake linkage. Before adjusting the linkage, be sure the brake pads are adjusted correctly. Minimal movement of the brake arm should apply the brakes. If it does not, the two socket head cap screws on either side of the brake disc and pads may need tightened. They should be tight enough that the arm only needs to move a little to apply the brake. On the other hand, if they are too tight, the brake will be on all the time. Adjust the 2 sides fairly evenly also. Now adjust the brake linkage. The brake tension is set with the black knurled collar that is on the end of the brake linkage. At idle (servo centered), you should have this set so that the collar is touching or almost touching the little piece of hose on the linkage, and the hose is touching or almost touching the brake arm. That way, at idle, the brake is not being applied, but almost is. And the vehicle should roll freely. If it does not roll freely, loosen the adjusting collar. With minimal movement of the trigger forward, the return spring on the throttle linkage should be compressed and the brake linkage should be pulling on the brake arm on the center gearbox and applying the brake stopping the free roll of the vehicle. If it does not, tighten the adjusting collar.
Sorry for the long post. I tried to cover all the details. I hope it helps.
Good luck!
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> Himoto Racing Support Forum >> throttle hook up 
throttle hook up - 
Hopefully I can learn how to add photos soon. I have seen some posts about it, but have not had a chance to try and master it. The How-To stuff you guys post with photos is great.
