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Joined: 10/19/2005 From: Dublin,
VA, USA Status: offline
This has the removeable wing correct?? I have to wonder why you don't use a 6v pack- after flying 6v, I will have nothing less in any of my planes. Looks good, I have been eyeing this one for a couple of weeks-I know it's pretty new but I haven't heard much about it yet though. I look forward to the rest of your progress.
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I didn''t choose Mojo, Mojo chose me PRO BRO #1963
Posts: 1867
Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hehe you won't find many JR guys using 6V packs. JR's servos just aren't rated or designed to run on 6V, but they don't need to. Their all optimised to be used on 4.8V. Some of the newer servos are now being rated for 6V and higher as well but it's only a handfull by now and then those servos already kick the competition's behind on 4.8V.
This bird has removeable wings yes. More to follow on the build soon. For now it's weekend and flying time though. Hehe
Posts: 145
Joined: 10/19/2005 From: Dublin,
VA, USA Status: offline
Spacey, maybe I am missing some very important info but your 539 servo isn't kicking much butt as you put it-rather you're kicking it in slooow motion with that .23sec transit time eehh?? Not to mention if you loose a cell on your heavvvvy stock nicad pack-things won't be looking so hot.
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I didn''t choose Mojo, Mojo chose me PRO BRO #1963
Posts: 1867
Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: TailTwister
I fly JR servos, and mine seem OK with 6v. That's a bad idea Spacey?
Hey Frank,
In short I wouldn't recommend it at all no. Unless JR specifically rated the servo with 6V specs. I'm also sure you know that if you run a servo which isn't rated for 6V and it burns out the warranty is void, and yes they'll pick up on this one if you send the servo in. Sure we've also had a few guys this side run some of the servos successfully on 6V without problems but then there's the others of course. Most of the folks who tried it had poor and expensive results. Like I said however alot of the new servos JR has come out with has been rated for 6V except of course their gyro servos, and those are wonderfull on 6V. Heck the servos I use on my helis can even be safely run on 2S lipo unregulated, again however at own risk of course.
Posts: 1867
Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: flygilmore
Spacey, maybe I am missing some very important info but your 539 servo isn't kicking much butt as you put it-rather you're kicking it in slooow motion with that .23sec transit time eehh?? Not to mention if you loose a cell on your heavvvvy stock nicad pack-things won't be looking so hot.
You are missing some important info yes. I specifically said some of the newer servos when I made that comment, go do a little searching for the DS 8915, 8511, 8711 and of course the new 8900G. The 539's I'm using on this plane is bone stock standard analog servos with over 4kg of torque and decent speed. For a standard servo it kicks butt if you ask me. I don't know about your comment about losing a cell either? If you lose a cell on anything your screwed if you ask me? And no you shouldn't use batteries that has a tendency to lose cells.
DS8915 Torque : 12Kgs Speed : 0.09S/60deg All at 4.8V
DS8511 Speed: 0.19sec/60deg Gearbox: Metal Torque: 15kg @4.8v
Posts: 1867
Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hey everyone,
I'm already being shouted at in PM's for not finishing the plane, I apologise. Work is keeping me from spending the time on the internet I would have liked to. More to come real soon!
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Joined: 7/2/2002 From: Marionville,
MO, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Spacey
Hehe you won't find many JR guys using 6V packs. JR's servos just aren't rated or designed to run on 6V, but they don't need to. Their all optimised to be used on 4.8V. Some of the newer servos are now being rated for 6V and higher as well but it's only a handfull by now and then those servos already kick the competition's behind on 4.8V.
This bird has removeable wings yes. More to follow on the build soon. For now it's weekend and flying time though. Hehe
Spacey, i'm flying Jr and have been using 6v in everything for about 9 years now with zero problems. As a matter of fact in all that time, ive never had a single servo have a problem ( other than a broken gear) in any servo above a standard. Ive had plenty of standard jr servos go bad though maybe the 6v? i am now running A123 batteries for my rx's and they are 6.6v and no problems. Some of our club members are running unregulated lipos 7.4v on their jr stuff with no problems.
Posts: 1867
Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Hallo everyone!
Wings time!
I made some good progress again over the past few days but yes work has just been keeping me from what I want a bit too much. Anyways here we go again.
First step was to sort out and slap together the two unique sets of ribs closest to the fuselage. These are firstly the root rib which is a balsa/ply rib glued together. It's very important to try and keep these straight looking at it from all angles otherwise you'll end up with some gaps between the wing and fuselage later. I used to wax paper layed on a mirror to glue these together. Also pay very close attention so you get all the holes and notches aligned properly and of course MOST importantly be sure to build a left and a right!!! Be sober when you tackle this step.
The second set of ribs only get a small ply doubler piece laminated onto it, pretty easy just pay attention to the left and right thing again. They are very much unique.
Next step was to build 4 mainspars, doubling them up at the root. Silly easy these steps if you follow the instructions. My advice also is to make absolutely sure you keep the spars straight when you glue on the doubler, pin it down and run a straight edge over it regularly.
Next onto pre building the wing sheeting, build all the sheeting required to build both wings in my opinion now. I am one to build both my wing panels at the same time but ok some would prefer to finish one and then do the other. Either way when you're building the sheeting do the whole batch. These steps didn't have any complications either except of course as always I advise folks to be very carefull when they cut the two joined 1/16" sheets for the taper, BEWARE the grain of the wood will want to take the blade everywhere. Pay attention, go slow if you have to and keep a firm grip on the knife and straight edge you're using to guide the blade. Oh I also advise folks to draw a guide line first between the markings, it helps.
Now time to glue the spars to the bottom leading edge sheeting. The trailing edge of the spar on these babies will overhang the trailing edge of the wing sheeting by 1/8" (ie half the spar). Pretty easy..keep things nice, flat and straight on the building board with pins and then glue the spar to the sheeting with thin CA. Unpin things again except for one or two pins at the root of the wing closest to the fuselage to help initially till all the ribs are in place. The spar and sheeting however will not touch the building board again except right at the root maybe. Only the rib tabs will do that job.
Ok time to get the ribs on! What more can I say? Don't glue anything untill all the ribs are in place and pinned down properly. Ensure they are absolutely 90' to the building board and perfectly aligned on the plans, also ensure you keep the mainspars straight, you'll need a proper square or triangle for this step. Either way in short take your time and don't glue untill you are absolutely sure. Also beware to not glue any of the sheeting just yet, only get the mainspar glued to the ribs.
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Joined: 1/27/2004 From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA Status: offline
Oh I forgot to add, the spar needs to be pulled up into the ribs away from the building board. Why I recommended you wait to glue anything untill everything is nicely into position.
Ok next up was to glue in the top spar. Check again before gluing, ensure the ribs are still 90' to the board and straight. Ensure the alignment tabs are still pinned down properly on the building board. It's really very easy.
Next up was the shear webbing? Plenty of thick CA, a sharp blade=quick work of this step. It's really an easy step as you are putting the shear webbing on the front of the spars inside the sheeting tube and you don't need to fuss with cosmetics too much. Only the bay between the root rib and next rib gets shear webbing all the way. The rest the width of the sheet will do. 5 minutes! Hehehe
Now onto the leading edge stock. You want to make sure you seat this one properly into each little notch before you bring on the glue! You also wanna ensure you keep the ribs straight front to back! Especially the root rib. Mark the rib positions on the LE before you glue it in place to aid this process. Little wiggling, double eyeballing and thin CA will quickly sort out this one.
Right then the 1/4" trailing edge stock. Same story again marking the ribs before hand and just some eyeballing, thin CA will quickly sort this one out. The instructions call for sanding the TE later to match the rib contours better before you glue on the TE sheeting. I opted to grab my balsa planer and to quickly just scrape the TE stock a little angle top and bottom before glueing it in place. You really don't need to take off much to avoid having to sand carefully later. But ok if you aren't too confident with the planer then rather go the sanding route.
Looks like it is building very quick Spacey. Good tip on the trailing edge stock. I bet shaping it before gluing it on is way easier than sanding afterwards. Plus you can use the crosssection drawing on the plans as a guide!
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Mike (Salmon) Pilkenton, Chief Slab Designer Ohio Model Planes, Team OMP Captain
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Profile and Fun Flying Planes >> RE: So hows about a ProYak build? 
RE: So hows about a ProYak build? - 
transit time eehh?? Not to mention if you loose a cell on your heavvvvy stock nicad pack-things won't be looking so hot.
