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1/2a combat - 4/22/2008 6:19:57 PM   
CajunSniper


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 4/22/2008
From: Eunice, LA, USA
Status: offline 		Is there any combat using .049's?? Wings or anything?

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yup
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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/22/2008 6:47:32 PM   
Montague



Posts: 4632
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Laurel, MD,
Status: offline 		At various times people have played around with it. Usually using .061's. Norvel made some pretty decent ones. But it's not really that popular. At that size, it seems most people would rather go eletric anyway


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Kirk Montague Adams
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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/22/2008 8:30:21 PM   
Capn America


 

Posts: 238
Joined: 9/22/2003
From: Holiday City, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Hattrick has some "arrow" 1/2 a kits. we have a few of them, they are fun slow and durable but no one really flies them as an event, mostly an after event or practice thing.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/22/2008 10:28:00 PM   
CajunSniper


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 4/22/2008
From: Eunice, LA, USA
Status: offline 		Yea was jsut curious. there is a few of us who are not in a club or anything and we fly on private property and was looking into some small screaming combat........

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 2:29:22 PM   
Montague



Posts: 4632
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Laurel, MD,
Status: offline 		1/2A would work for that. But you might do better with SSC designs and just not worrying about the RPM limits and such. The SSC designs out there have been tweaked over a longer period of time and fly quite well. And if you're just doing combat with friends, the planes will fly a little better with a little extra power, but still survive a lot of abuse. The 1/2A planes are also really good at standing up to a beating, but they are more sensitive to extra weight and such. If you want to go 1/2A, going with Hattrick's kit is a really good idea to start with.


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Kirk Montague Adams
RCCA 560

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 6:47:48 PM   
CajunSniper


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 4/22/2008
From: Eunice, LA, USA
Status: offline 		yea and it wont be as expensive... Sure the Coroplast Combat isnt expensive either but the small stuff is what I like!!!

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yup

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 7:15:34 PM   
vertical grimmace


 

Posts: 1143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: ft collins , CO, USA
Status: offline 		Now to add a wrinkle, If going for 1\2 A you are going to want to use bladders. They just work better and will keep your engine running. Also get a hold of some Galbreath heads and run Nelson plugs. This will improve performance and ease of use.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 8:00:15 PM   
Clean



Posts: 990
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Not to rain on your parade, but combat eats servos, especially the higher price micros that you'll need so you don't weight your 1/2A bird around. But certainly give it a try if you want, the planes can be done and they can be a lot of fun.

If you are not opposed to it, and want to give it a try, do a search for the MANWIN trainer. It's control line, 1/2A and made of coroplast. Couple of those in a circle draggin streamer is a lot of fun. There are better 1/2A ships for combat, but these are dang near free.

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From Somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane (aka Mr Clean) Rever Brother #168 Time Man of the Year

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 9:06:48 PM   
Montague



Posts: 4632
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Laurel, MD,
Status: offline 		The bladders and micro servos and stuff to make 1/2A work well are one of the reasons I prefer the .15 size planes. You can use 3 cheap, full size servos, and the .15 engines run a lot more like the larger engines your familiar with. Whatever works for you though. Having fun is the point, right.


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Kirk Montague Adams
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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 9:08:28 PM   
Montague



Posts: 4632
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Laurel, MD,
Status: offline 		The bladders and micro servos and stuff to make 1/2A work well are one of the reasons I prefer the .15 size planes. You can use 3 cheap, full size servos, and the .15 engines run a lot more like the larger engines your familiar with. Whatever works for you though. Having fun is the point, right.


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Kirk Montague Adams
RCCA 560

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/23/2008 10:27:00 PM   
vertical grimmace


 

Posts: 1143
Joined: 3/13/2004
From: ft collins , CO, USA
Status: offline 		Yes, there is a learning curve with 1\2 A. It seemed that some guys could figure it out but most could not and ended up quiting it. I like the size for practice but agree that .15 is probably a more practical size. The costs would end up being the same.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/24/2008 12:19:24 AM   
combatpigg



Posts: 9791
Joined: 11/22/2003
From: arlington, WA, USA
Status: online 		1/2A is the easiest to do and probably most durable form of RC Combat. The trick to flying all day with no mid airs is to build them light, slow and identical. I built a batch of 36x9 balsa flying wings about 5 years ago and have retired very few of them due to crashes. When the hay is chest high, these planes usually don't even reach the ground after a mishap or for refueling. A .061 AP Wasp, 2 oz Hayes tank and a pair of HS-81 servos do the job tank after tank. Prop the planes to suit your tastes, 6x3s will net about 35 mph, 5x3s will get you maybe 45-50 mph.
Streamers are crepe paper rolls that have been band sawn down the middle, 3 or 4 arm lengths with 10-15 foot string leader. There is a flimsy and easy to break yarn that is the best for leaders.
This is the type of combat that is best flown real close in, the planes weigh 13-14 OZs RTF and have pretty good vertical. This is real dog fighting instead of high speed jousting.
Some scrap spar material, packing tape and CA glue are nice to bring along, but I have flown several all dayers were we did nothing more than gas them up and tie on fresh streamers.
Have fun.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/24/2008 12:31:34 PM   
Capn America


 

Posts: 238
Joined: 9/22/2003
From: Holiday City, OH, USA
Status: offline 		I dont run bladders, I use a small 2oz bottle with old clunk tank parts stuffed in it. no issues and long flights.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/24/2008 1:57:47 PM   
combatpigg



Posts: 9791
Joined: 11/22/2003
From: arlington, WA, USA
Status: online 		The only 1/2A engines that need either a bladder or backplate pressure to run consistently are TDs with enlarged venturis or AMEs. IMO the way to go is use stock AP or BigMig .061s, they have plenty of power without raising the planes' performance to the point where you are having a demolition derby. Guys who experience trouble with these engines probably don't add a few ozs of castor to a fresh gallon of store bought fuel. I just buy 15% nitro, add castor to it and use it for everything I own.

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Led Zeppelin is NOT "old fogie" music.

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/24/2008 2:32:10 PM   
Montague



Posts: 4632
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Laurel, MD,
Status: offline 		You know, everyone claims that their favorate class is the "easiest" and has the best "dogfighting". whatever, it's all BS. Fly what you want to fly, but why put down things you don't even participate in. Fwiw, I have flown some 1/2A combat, and I didn't like it. YMMV.


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Kirk Montague Adams
RCCA 560

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RE: 1/2a combat - 4/26/2008 3:00:03 PM   
combatpigg



Posts: 9791
Joined: 11/22/2003
From: arlington, WA, USA
Status: online 		I've flown .15 sized 704 and SSC......I still have 6 SSC planes. I've also flown 5 different classes of C/L combat from 1/2A to AMA Fast. I have a 36'x36' barn with about 30-40 combat planes hanging of all types[both RC and CL] ready to go at any given time. To say that I'm putting things down that I don't participate in any more is like saying that since I don't smoke cigarettes any more I shouldn't put them down either. I think the more realistic way of looking at it is to say, been there done that and it doesn't work for me. There is nothing but .25 sized club combat around here and it's 100 mph jousting. There is no comparison when a 40-50 oz plane hits the ground at 50-100 mph and when a 14 oz 1/2A model gets hung up in chest high hay, are you calling that po