Posts: 117
Joined: 11/17/2005 From: Lemoore,
CA, USA Status: offline
Hi,
I'd like to build one of the two, either a .10 size Shrike 10 (already have the kit) or a Sig Wonder (willing to buy). Wanted to get some opinions from folks who've built both as to which one is easier to build and/or produces a nicer product with less effort.
Posts: 2215
Joined: 9/15/2002 From: Milford,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: franklin_m
Hi,
I'd like to build one of the two, either a .10 size Shrike 10 (already have the kit) or a Sig Wonder (willing to buy). Wanted to get some opinions from folks who've built both as to which one is easier to build and/or produces a nicer product with less effort.
Thanks, Frank
SIG WONDER hands down!
Builds quick and EASY Detailed plans, PHOTO instruction manual, ALL the Hardware is included too! Wing builds flat over plans, not through the fuse on spars.
Wonder hand launches better(larger fuse area to hold on to), flys slower but not as fast.
If you buy a wonder kit about 40.00 send me PM for building modifications. like bolt on stab & no lower hatch, 3/16 sq basswoood L.E. with wrapover wing sheeting., dual rudders.
I have built Wonders with: OS.15 FP, OS.25FP, OS.25FX and two OS .15 FP.
Posts: 17
Joined: 11/2/2003 From: Grand Junction,
CO, USA Status: offline
I have to agree-I've built 'em both and I think the Wonder is easier to build. The Shrike construction is just kind of weird, not really difficult but plenty of opportunity to screw things up. Just my opinion.
Posts: 37
Joined: 3/1/2002 From: St. Marys,
GA, USA Status: offline
I have built both and I have to agree that the Wonder is an easier build. Although I didn't think the Shrike was that bad. If I remember right the Wonder came with hardware and the Shrike did not. Also, you don't have to worry about the Wonder folding its wings like apparently the Shrikes do. My Shrike folded its wings.
Posts: 106
Joined: 12/10/2001 From: Benton City, WA, USA Status: offline
They both are about the same on the build but the Wonder sure was a lot easier to cover. As far as the Shrike wing goes just replace the balsa spars with spruce or bass wood, problem solved. Flying my Shrike with a 25 no problem, yank and bank.
Posts: 2215
Joined: 9/15/2002 From: Milford,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Crash-RCU
They both are about the same on the build but the Wonder sure was a lot easier to cover. As far as the Shrike wing goes just replace the balsa spars with spruce or bass wood, problem solved. Flying my Shrike with a 25 no problem, yank and bank.
I had the .10-15 Shrike with OS.25FP did not consider it OVERpowered but I did fold a wing.
added spruce doublers to the two spars and flew the snot out of it.
I know this because.... the FMA Rx battery went south on the 3rd flight one day...
Posts: 4089
Joined: 3/21/2003 From: Paris, FRANCE Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: Crazy4Flight
quote:
ORIGINAL: Crash-RCU
They both are about the same on the build but the Wonder sure was a lot easier to cover. As far as the Shrike wing goes just replace the balsa spars with spruce or bass wood, problem solved. Flying my Shrike with a 25 no problem, yank and bank.
I had the .10-15 Shrike with OS.25FP did not consider it OVERpowered but I did fold a wing.
added spruce doublers to the two spars and flew the snot out of it.
I know this because.... the FMA Rx battery went south on the 3rd flight one day...
the wreckage was found with no snot inside!
The .10-.15 Shrike as you call it, has a recommended engine size of .10 to .15. You've used a .25 => IT IS overpowered, by definition. Excerpt from lanier rc website : http://www.lanierrc.com/airplanes/lana1700.html "Rec. Engine Size: .10 - .15 2-Stroke"
Posts: 2215
Joined: 9/15/2002 From: Milford,
MI, USA Status: offline
[/quote]
The .10-.15 Shrike as you call it, has a recommended engine size of .10 to .15. You've used a .25 => IT IS overpowered, by definition. Excerpt from lanier rc website : http://www.lanierrc.com/airplanes/lana1700.html "Rec. Engine Size: .10 - .15 2-Stroke"
[/quote]
If I used an O.S. .25FX then I would have called it overpowered!
Posts: 2215
Joined: 9/15/2002 From: Milford,
MI, USA Status: offline
rudders are good for wild snaps spins with aft CG limit, rudder only at fulll throttle make the plane skid
I bolt the stab down with 10-32 nylon screws using wing mount block plenty of room and a 3rd screw into a block add between the fuse-sides & do not put hatch on aft lower fuse I just sheet the bottom and full length triange stock
add 3/8 triangle stock under the wingmounting blocks
wing ribs are 4 sheets with 4 diecut ribs each, ecah rib is a little different... I stack the up on the wing spars and then sand them to match.
delete the 1/4" baalsa LE and use 3/16 square spruce for LE, it fits flush to the fish mouth in the ribs ... DON'T trim wing 3" sheeting if if straight to 2-3/4 as instructed this way sheet wrap over the top of LE and has better bond. (if supplied balsa is curved then you will need to buy 1/6 x 4 x 36 bala stock and trim to size...) plans call for butting the wing sheeting to the 1/4" LE but I have found it is a difficult task to do with out waves. a stronger straigher LE is the result
the trailing edge stock is be pre-notched for the torque rods, instruction ask you to carve a groove out after wing is assembled.
install balsa or harwood blocks inside the wing under the servo for solid servo mounting screws then sheet the wing
I put 2 mini servos on hardwood rails under the stab for elevator and throttle cutting square hole thru fuse sides to locate rails... you will need to place servo on plans to plot out location, 1/4 triangle stock used around 3 sides of the se rails for support/strength.
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Easier to build? - Shrike 10 or Sig Wonder? - 
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