After Run and Air filter oil?  
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After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/3/2003 10:14:24 PM   
Avalanche


 

Posts: 488
Joined: 1/16/2003
From: NJ
Status: offline 		What exactly is After run oil? The hobbico oil I have looks and feels like Transmission fluid to me. Also what is everyone using for air filter oil?

I'm thinking of Marvel Mystery Oil for after run and regualar 2 stroke oil for air filter oil. Whats the general consensus here?
       Post #: 1

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/4/2003 10:03:48 AM   
downunder-RCU



Posts: 1125
Joined: 12/27/2001
From: Adelaide, South Australia
Status: offline 		I'm not quite sure what you mean by air filter oil but if you're talking about things like the Bru Line filters then they're self oiling from any fuel that tends to spit back out the carb at various times. Or during a prime with inverted engines

(in reply to Avalanche)
       Post #: 2

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/4/2003 1:55:43 PM   
Fuelman


 

Posts: 995
Joined: 12/31/2001
From: Jordan, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Best air filter cleaner and oil I have ever used is manufactured by "Fantom Racing". They are an R/C car manufacturer and its for the air filters for them.


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Fuelman
Cooper Fuels LLC

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       Post #: 3

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/6/2003 8:45:19 PM   
Kevin Duncan


 

Posts: 14
Joined: 4/24/2003
From: Rio Rico, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		I have an idea what you mean by air filter oil. Some (or maybe all) full scale plane owners saturate their air filter with oil. As far as I know, there are no modelers who perform this. Just install the foam air filter over the carb and you are good to go.

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Kevin Duncan
duncanbp@msn.com

(in reply to Avalanche)
       Post #: 4

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/7/2003 1:57:45 AM   
Avalanche


 

Posts: 488
Joined: 1/16/2003
From: NJ
Status: offline 		Well, I run Off road Nitro trucks and I oil the foam air filter to facilitate the trapping of dirt and dust. This is common in almost all 2 stroke applications, even motorcycles and small engines like chain saws. The air filter oil from the hobby shop is a complete rip off as it is probably 4 oz. of 2 stroke mix oil for $4 that you can get by the quart for $2 at the auto parts store. Same goes for after run oil, seems like transmission fluid to me.

(in reply to Avalanche)
       Post #: 5

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/7/2003 8:25:14 AM   
downunder-RCU



Posts: 1125
Joined: 12/27/2001
From: Adelaide, South Australia
Status: offline 		Avalanche...ok, I'm with you now. Just about any oil should be suitable because all it does is supply a sticky surface to trap any particles. In that case a mineral oil is probably best because you can just wash the dirty filter in gas then re-oil it. I used to use the filter element out of a car fuel filter as my air cleaner but that has to run dry, any oil would seal the openings.

I don't need after run because I use castor but it seems that the red stuff IS trans fluid.

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       Post #: 6

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/7/2003 10:25:22 AM   
Fuelman


 

Posts: 995
Joined: 12/31/2001
From: Jordan, NY, USA
Status: offline 		A good air filter oil will leave a sticky but not wet residue in the open cell foam element. Its almost like a tack cloth you would use prior to painting a car.
Yes, almost any oil that would wet the foam cells will work but be carefull not to oversaturate since this could block some airflow.
A true air filter oil will make the foam very stickey without restricting airflow and trap just as much or more fine dust as conventional oil.

Just my two cents guys, don't blast me


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Fuelman
Cooper Fuels LLC

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       Post #: 7

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/7/2003 7:47:37 PM   
Rodney



Posts: 4616
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: FL
Status: offline 		Are you mixing up "air tool oil" with "air filter oil". For after run oil, any good air tool oil will work. Marvel mystery AIR TOOL oil is okay as an after run oil as is any air tool oil. Regular Marvel mystery oil is not as good as it has little or no water protection in it. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) also is a good after run oil.

(in reply to Avalanche)
       Post #: 8

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/25/2003 12:54:14 AM   
Basil Yousif


 

Posts: 470
Joined: 3/27/2003
From: Roseville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		For after run oil mix 1/2 part Automatic Transmission Oil with
1/2 part Marvel Air tool oil this combo is a little thicker than using the Marvel air tool oil alone. I have been using this combo for a few months now and it keeps the engines really clean inside and it's probably very close to what's in the little bottle you buy at the hobby store for $2. 1/2 gallon of this mixture will cost around $8

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If you have a new model set it free if it comes back it loves you, if it doesn't you just lost alot of money!!

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       Post #: 9

Air filter oil - 5/25/2003 5:12:47 PM   
Hobbsy



Posts: 10354
Joined: 12/2/2001
From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I would think any oil you put on the air filter is going to be replaced in a matter of seconds with lube oil since every two stroke engine I own spits fuel out of the carb. If you put it on dry it will be oily before you get the engine started. My personal fave for after run is Corrosion X, if you put an engine on the shelf for 5 years and then pull the back plate it will look like new inside and the Corrosion X will look exactly like it did when you put it in there.

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Giant Saito, 73.2 Cu. In., 70.5HP @ 5,800 rpm, 79 ft. lbs torque @ 3,500 rpm, 57 mpg, 3.50 bore, 3.81 stroke. 563 lbs.

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       Post #: 10

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/25/2003 9:56:33 PM   
dflier


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 4/14/2003
From: Fort Wayne, IN, USA
Status: online 		<<. My personal fave for after run is Corrosion X, if you put an engine on the shelf for 5 years and then pull the back plate it will look like new inside and the Corrosion X will look exactly like it did when you put it in there.>>

Where do you find Corrosion X?

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Dave

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       Post #: 11

Corrosion X - 5/25/2003 10:03:10 PM   
Hobbsy



Posts: 10354
Joined: 12/2/2001
From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I get it from Sheldon's in California, a 16 oz aerosol can is about $16.00 but will last over a year.

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Giant Saito, 73.2 Cu. In., 70.5HP @ 5,800 rpm, 79 ft. lbs torque @ 3,500 rpm, 57 mpg, 3.50 bore, 3.81 stroke. 563 lbs.

(in reply to Avalanche)
       Post #: 12

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/26/2003 5:18:38 AM   
Basil Yousif


 

Posts: 470
Joined: 3/27/2003
From: Roseville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here's a money saving Idea - use the ATF/Marvel Air tool oil mix for every day run in oil and this expensive corrosion X for shelving engines.

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If you have a new model set it free if it comes back it loves you, if it doesn't you just lost alot of money!!

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       Post #: 13

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/26/2003 11:19:29 AM   
Fauzi-RC Malaysia



Posts: 76
Joined: 8/15/2002
From: Cheras, Selangor, MALAYSIA
Status: offline 		As for me, I have been using own blend after run oil on my Saito 56 and 2 MVVS 45 engines. The blend has been working wonderfully on all these three engines. Easy to start and really lubricate and clean off the fuel deposits inside the engine. But, bear in mind that, if the after run oil has been dripped into the carb too much (say more than 20 drops), you may occasionally find it a bit hard to ignite the engine on the first flick of the prop. But its normal and keep flicking the prop and the engine shall then start to ignite. This could be due to much after run oil residing in the glow plug.

My blend is:

Automobile STP brand Fuel injector cleaner (50%) blend with a automobile autotransmission gear oil (50%)

Injector cleaner is basically to remove the fuel/carbon deposits while the autotransmission oil is to lubricate and protect from corrossion.

Both fluids blend/mix together finely and the solution will have a red colour (depends on the transmission oil colour)

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       Post #: 14

After Run and Air filter oil? - 5/26/2003 9:18:20 PM   
Basil Yousif


 

Posts: 470
Joined: 3/27/2003
From: Roseville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		One thing you don't want in an after run oil is anything with a water dispersant or any kind of penitrating oil because these lubricants will loosen rust and allow it to be dispersed throughout the engine. This can grind the precision fit parts inside the engine. The ATF/Marvel air tool oil mix is probably the safest bet. I don't have any problems starting the engine afterwards because it's not a heavy oil mix, but at the same time the engine spins nice and smooth with alot of compression between starts. I works but doesn't gum.

_____________________________

If you have a new model set it free if it comes back it loves you, if it doesn't you just lost alot of money!!

(in reply to Avalanche)