Ghost help (Full Version)

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sotonflyer -> Ghost help (4/29/2008 2:57:39 PM)

Hi, well I got a Rand LR3 actuator (the one with the Rand-Pak, works off 3.6 volts) plus a Controlaire ghost TX and Ace superhet receiver (it looks like a later version) from Ebay. I also have a MacGregor ghost TX (from the late 1960's). Everthing works - the Rand centres OK although I get more rudder throw with the MacGregor and more up elevator with the Controlaire. The Macgregor is a neat unit, is in better nick and is well built so I might go with that at first. However, I am only getting 50 - 60 ft range with each transmitter with the aerial collapsed. The electronics of the MacGregor look similar to the Controlaire apart from the MacGregor has a based loaded aerial. Does anyone know the aerial length for the Ace? It looks a bit short and I get more range with about 30 inches of wire.

Now, I want to tune this up, improve the range and get it into a model, probably a glider/slope soarer of light weight so I don't need the throttle part of the Rand which has the usual crack (I will fix this anyway for future use). I know that Jaymen has written a lot of stuff on these systems but I am not an electronics person (although I can tell a transistor form a resistor). How easy is it to tune these systems? Do I need any special equipment? Can anyone provide some advice in easy to understand language?

I have a few single channel flying models with rubber driven escapements. One of which is a Minnie Mambo that I bought from Early RC. Is Boberos part of Easy RC? I think that the Rand, Controlaire TX and Ace RX was sold by his father! But I might be wrong. Hope someone can help. I can post pictures if required.

Peter




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 3:24:22 PM)


PS - I meant BobHH and NOT Boberos. These handles are confusing!




ggeezer -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 6:06:16 PM)

Peter,
Could you post a photo of the receiver so that I can identify the unit. I restore these old sets and I used to service these radios in the 60s and 70s so tuning superhets is a specialty of mine. I most likely have the same setup you just bought.

Orv.




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 7:45:33 PM)

Hello Orv,

Not sure how to post pics but this might work...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryitemSolo.cfm?itemid=140206

Many thanks,

Peter




ggeezer -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 8:15:01 PM)

Hello Peter,
That rec. looks familiar. I used to be an Ace R/C dealer back in the good old days and still have a lot of the documentation. I will dig through the archives to see what I can find. If memory serves me, I think the rec. antenna length was stated at 24" but I will have to check. In most cases the length wasn't so critical that the input inductor couldn't be adjusted to match the impedance.
Does your Controlaire Tx. have a wire protruding slightly out of a rubber grommet on the back of the case?

Orv.




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 9:12:05 PM)


There is NO wire protruding out of the back of the case. My Controlaire GG Tx is version 2 and has 7 transistors.

Peter




jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (4/29/2008 10:38:26 PM)

You have an Ace Pulse Commander receiver, 27 mHz.
The Ace supehets have no AGC. They mostly came set-up for 2.4 volts, as used with the Pulse Commander transmitter, and Adams Actuator. There are two resistors in the IF biasing that can be increased in value for 3.0 volts, and 3.6 volts respectively, The receiver oppration will be erratic and un-tunable if they are not the right value for the voltage applied. Your particular version has a bridge output for a non centertapped Adams actuator and is the last, most recent version. The output stage can directly drive a magnetic actuator but is not powerful enough to drive a 3.6V Mitsumi motor as used in the LR-3 for very long without overheating the transistors. I actually bypass the 4 output transistors and tap in ahead of them to the driver stage and use that signal to drive the Rand's integral switcher.

Anyway, tuning can be accomplished using a current meter in line with the Rx. battery supply, no actuator connected to Rx. The transmitter needs to be turned on, the antenna collapsed, and the tone full on(hi throttle). DONOT OPPERATE TX WITH NO ANTENNA, you will burn out the output transistor!!

The receiver's idle current( Tx. off) should be less than about 20ma. With the Tx on the current should rise to around 30-50ma or so. Slowly back away with the transmitter until the receiver current drops to close to minimum idle current. If the idle current was 15ma, then about 20 ma would be good. At this point, tune the antenna slug for peak current on the meter. If the meter peaks out, try moving the Tx further away and re-tune the coil for peak again. You can then do a range test to see if the receiver's range is improved. Only tune the IF coils if the range is still poor. Tuning is done the same way, starting with the yellow, then white, and finally the black if coil. Peak each coil on the meter, and keep moving the Tx away to get the current to drop on the meter so it won't peg out as you tune each sucessive coil's slug.


I will look and see what the resistor values should be for 3.6 volts, but it is annotated on the Ace receiver schematics I have attached here. Also note this schematic shows none of the output transistors, it shows a PNP output xsistor for driving a relay, THIS IS WHERE YOU TAP IN FOR DRIVING THE LR-3 W/ SWITCHER. The relay is not used, the connection instead goes to the Rand's switcher.


One reason Ace gives no tuning instructions for the IF is because it is tricky with no scope, and their Tx. (Pulse Commander) has no switch for tone on(motor Hi) to use when tuning. Additionally, with no AGC, one must be sure to keep moving the Tx further away as each coil is tuned and peaked to insure a low signal level at the receiver when tuning so it won't start "clipping" the signal. You can see this with a scope, but the ammeter will only show a high current reading and not move when you tune the coil slugs, this means the transmitter is too close.

If you still have poor range, it is most likely the Tx has low output. I have re-tuned quite a few, that were significantly down on power. One can attribute this to components drifting with age. On Controlaire transmitters with output meters, you should get at least a reading of 9 on the meter with the Tx on, antenna extended, and about 7 on the meter antenna collapsed. I use a scope to look at the RF envelope when tuning, but one could use a ammeter inline with the suppy, or a field strength meter. Once the Tx output is verified as good(about 350milliwatts) then a comparison of other Txs can be made using a field strength meter.




ggeezer -> RE: Ghost help (4/30/2008 12:26:12 AM)

Wow! Jayman just saved me a bunch of hunting and typing.
The only other thing I would do before starting to tune the IF cans is to take a felt marker and mark the existing positions on the can and remember to only tweak the slugs just a little bit as the setting can be quite sensitive. If you get them too far off, especially all three, it is almost impossible to juggle them back without more specialized test equipment. That is why I always mark the initial settings before attempting to tune them because it is now easy to go back and start again.
I can't think of the number of rec. I used to get where the owners would try to tune the IFs and put them completely out of whack.
Also, use a plastic tuning wand or a sharpened wooden dowel as a metal screwdriver will change the inductance and make tuning impossible.

Orv.




jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (4/30/2008 5:06:59 AM)

Orv is sure right, because if they get way out, you are lost without a scope. I actually use a Hewlett Packard synthesized RF signal generator, set for AM 100% modulation @ 1000Hz to check the tuning and sweep to check bandwidth, then I check sensitivity.

My Min-X, Controlaire, Citizen-ship, Hallco, and Ace pulse sets all have about 5 microvolt sensitivity, give or take, and all have about 200-300 feet of ground range with the Tx antenna collapsed. This is a good guideline or those who lack more sophisticated test equipment.

It is still possible to do it the way I described in the previouse post above though, with care, and I did forget to mention using non- metallic tuning wands/tools, Thanks Orv.


Speaking of simple test equipment, I use a field strength meter that is set to read full scale, which is ten, when connected to a known 350 milliwatt source. From this I can closely estimate other transmitter's output power, meaning if it read 7.5, then that would be about half, or 175 milliwatts. Another clue to proper output is that the final transistor is usually warm.


Another old school tip: ( no pun intended) Use the point of your soldering iron to gently warm the tuning slugs and melt the wax if there is any, otherwize you will crack the slug trying to turn it. The antenna coil slug is the most prone to move under vibration and is often waxed after adjustment as a precaution. Re warming of the wax to melt it, or another drop of wax from a candle after final range check is advised. For gliders, this is not so critical.

A real crude method is to mark the coil slug positions, and while moving away from the transmitter note the point where opperation of the Rand becomes a little erratic. Then try tuning the slugs a little one way or the other, only a 1/16th of a turn to see if that improves reception as noted by how well the LR-3 or actuator is tracking the pulses. Start with the antenna coil, then move on to the yellow, white, and black IF cans, each time only moving them slightly to see if opperation/range can be improved. If at any time you loose signal and the Rand cycles, return the slug to where it was marked and move closer to the transmitter until steady opperation resumes, then try again. The problem most guys have is they start turning the slig to far one way or the other and loose track of where they started. The key is to discipline yourself to only turn a the slug a tiny bit and note which direction you turned it.
I once had a receiver that could only be tuned in this way, it was a superegen though. In the old days, that was how most of us did it unless you had the luxery of a microammeter, they were expensive!

Use the LR-3 throttle arm for flaps or spoilers!




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (4/30/2008 11:13:34 AM)


Hmmm... interesting stuff and thanks for the help so far.

The Ace Rec. came to me wired to the Rand with 3 NiCad's to give 3.6 volts. The Ace was wired to the Rand Pak as per Rand instructions and I assume that it is using the Rand's internal switcher. At any rate it seems to work fine (the Rand is switching correctly) with this setup and on 3.6 volts. However, I better stop using 3.6 volts and see if I can replace the resistors as suggested. I hope that I can locate the correct ones! Will have a good look tonight when I am home form work. I also get better range using a 30 inch aerial on the receiver instead of 24 inch.

I have quite a number of other superhet single channel receivers. Most are MacGregor (with and without relay), Futaba and OS. I have used the MacGregor's in a couple of my single channel models. They give a similar range (aerial collapsed) as my ghost system and as these models are small 500ft in the air is about as far as you want to get. I would also want to put the ghost system in a small-ish model so I guess I could get away with relatively short range. However, I still want to get the best out of it for ovbious reason's.

I could use one of the MacGregor relayless receivers. These are similar to the Futaba single channel Rec. in that they use a 9 volt supply and then have a simple transistor switch (is this the correct term?) to drive an escapement using a second battery (usually 3 volts). I am not sure if this transistor switch could cope with 3.6 volts plus the Rand motor. For motorised actuators MacGregor suggest using a relay Rx. I have tried using one of the MacGregor replay receivers with the rand and I get a similar range. All this leads me to think that it'll be best to use the Ace receiver for my ghost setup.

For range it sounds like it'll be best for me to look at the transmitters first and see if I can improve these and use the one that gives best results. At the moment thay are equal as far as range goes.

I plan to put the ghost system in a period (late 1960's) slope soarer. I could use the Rand throttle arm for spoilers or flaps but then this would not be in keeping with the design. At any rate, I like to keep it simple at leat at first! I want to have this ready (plus my current single channel gliders) for a slope nostalgia event in the middle of September. Here in the UK there isn't much interest in flying these old systems, although there are collectors that just put them on display, a waste I think. Nostalgia normally means late 70's to 80's models + proportional. Any flying single channel or ghost system will blow them away!




ggeezer -> RE: Ghost help (4/30/2008 8:09:34 PM)

Jay,
It sounds like you have some really good equipment in your shop. As a young man starting out in life with very little money (early 60s) for luxuries like oscilloscopes and vacuum tube volt meters etc., I used a simple low cost, very high impedance crystal earphone to service and tune both regen. and superhet equipment. By connecting it to subsequent stages in the circuit and listening to the tone, I could analyze problems and peak tune the stages. It is amazing how accurate and sensitive the ear is to subtle changes. In fact, I still find this a useful method and still have that original earphone.

Orv.




jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (4/30/2008 9:09:08 PM)

Orv, back in the old days, when we all needed it the most, I had no test equipment, and even less knowledge!

Here is a funny story about my first Controlaire Galloping Ghost system:

I had read the MAN article about Butch, (Art Schroeder's kid) and the Mayfly by Meyers Models, basically an ARF for .049 Cox and the Rand LR-3. I had never seen a pulse system in opperation, as out here on the West Coast (California) they were not popular, and besides, this was Orbit, Kraft, Bonner, Micro Avionics, and PCS's backyard, everyone had Digital Proportional rigs. The only other "old school " stuff I had seen at that time was escapements, and reeds. So when I saw a used Controlaire Galloping Ghost at the hobby shop, they kind of looked at me like I was crazy to even be interested in it. But, it was only $50.00 and it had a Bonner Digimite stick, so in my mind it was the cheapest proportional rig around at that time. I could not figure out how one servo gave all three functions, but since I did not have the money to buy it, I did not ask for them to fire it up and show me that it worked.

Anyway, I must have gotten a ride up to the hobby shop with my grandfather, who often took me there, because somehow my family found out or got wind of the fact that I was enamored with getting this Galloping Ghost radio ( even though I knew I could never afford it). Before long, the radio sold, dashing my dreams of getting a proportional radio. I had a Junior Falcon with a Bonner Vari-Comp, and the Rand LR-3 equipped Controlaire seemed like an ideal improvement for it.

Anyway, that year for Christmass there was a funny brown paper bag under the tree from "Santa" which means in my family it was a gift from everyone. Nobody seemed to notice it, and finally my dad asked me who it was for, well I looked and it said "To Jay From Santa". Much to my surprize, there was the Controlaire, with the F&M Vanguard and Rand LR-3, wow, they got it for me!

My uncle Bob was there, an electronics guru, and so we fired it up. Instantly the Rand LR-3 went into pulsing and wiggling away, which really confused me, and about the only thing that did make sense was the throttle arm did respond to the toggle switch and stayed put, but everything else was gyrating away. It made no sense to me, or my uncle, niether of us had no clue as to how pulse proportional was supposed to work. My uncle suggested we try a range check after I opened the receiver and saw the tuning coils, I asked him if he could maybe adjust it to stop the pulsing/wiggling. Instead, we went and range tested it, and he determined it was receiving signal, but there must be some problem in the transmitter sending intermittant signals( pulsing maybe?) and that we should get it checked out.

I was really let down, here a $50.00 used radio was a piece of junk, I should never had thought you could buy anything good for that cheap. We looked inside the little box the airborne had been in and found a repair/service receipt from "Larson Electronics" on S. Grand St. in Santa Ana, only a few miles from where we lived. It said the radio had been tuned and tested only a couple weeks ago.
So, after Christmass, I took the Ghost over there in the basket on the front of my bike. I think Gordon Larson and Bob Novak nearly died laughing when I explained the radio would not stop wiggling! Gordon took the radio into his lab, while Bob gave me a tour of the radio factory where they were making RS Systems radios. Then, after the tour, Gordon briefly explained how pulse proportional/galloping ghost works and I humbly went home with my radio!

This single event let to lifetime fascination with Galloping Ghost systems.
I never did fly that radio, it just seemed to weird to ever be capable of working correctly, and I built a World Engine Blue Max kit proportional unit for my first R/C plane. I still have the Controlaire too.




boberos -> RE: Ghost help (5/1/2008 1:11:33 AM)

Hi Soton,
I have no commercial interest with anyone, but I do know BobHH.
For some unknown reason, I do have an interest in these old radios.
Best of luck with your GG equipment.

Jaymen, thanks for your articles & tuning tips.
You are a great source of info about these mysterious wiggling things. Now I understand why.
A lot of those old transmitteres seem weak these days.
But that is life.

Best to all,
Bob




BobHH -> RE: Ghost help (5/1/2008 2:53:10 AM)

Peter, I beleive you did get that system from my Dad. It worked well but had short range. Dad has moved and is down sizing a bit. I too have 4 of these systems with all 4 have poor range. I've yet to try Jay's mods but I'm sure he is right on as the 2 GG systems he has fixed for me have excellent range.

Yep, I started Early RC Models in 2002. I've since sold it to Wing Mfg. Dan at Wing has the facilities to continue its growth. I still do design work for him. Check out his site as he has Lou Andrews H-Ray and S-Ray model available now as well as many models to put your GG system in!!

Bob Harris




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/1/2008 2:54:37 PM)


Hello Bob,

I am now getting a bit more range with my MacGregor GG TX and the Ace rec. With the Ace I have found that extending the aerial from 24 inches to 30 inches doubles the range. Also (I have not changed the resistors yet) running the rec. off 2.4 volts is giving better range that 3.6v. The real test will be seeing how much ground range I can get with the TX aerial fully extended.

I really should post some pictures of my Minni Mambo (from your kit) with single channel escapement. It flies well in a scary kind of way!

Peter





jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (5/1/2008 3:34:00 PM)

Peter, it should not actually damage anything if the receiver is set up for 2.4 volts and run on 3.6 volts, it's just that the performance will not be as good. It may tend to drop out at close range or certain angles though because it's over-amplifying the signal and possibly disstorting when run at 3.6 volts....but no harm will come to the receiver.




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/6/2008 4:20:48 PM)


Have been playing around with may collection of single channel receivers. I have 9 MacGregor MR60 superhet single channel receivers. These all have a relay. I tried each one of these with my Rand PAK LR3 actuator. It was interesting to note the variation in range and the state of the relays. Most of the relays, although fine for switching an escapement or single channel motorised actuator, had poor peformance with the Rand - typically they would work OK but the Rand was well off center and/or had drift when I moved the TX stick. I found one that work well, with the Rand remaining in a neutral position when it should and little (if any) drift when I moved the elevator stick on the TX. This receiver also had good range (approx 100ft TX aerial down) with my MacGregor GG TX. Maybe the frequency of the tone that the TX puts out is resonant with the receiver 's audio output stage, both being of the same make. However, I am also getting much improved range using this rec. plus the Controlaire GG TX (about 60ft) and the Controlaire TX definately has a range issue.

So, I have a good working system - MacGregor GG TX plus MacGregor MR60 Rec with Rand PAK LR3. I could replace the relay with some sort of transistor switcher but it's working well and since I'm going to put this in a slope soarer (at least at first) the relay should be fine. Will also have to use two batteries (one for the Rec and another for the Rand) but I always have to add at least a little weight to the nose of most slope soarers anyway.

While I work on the model (just started) I will work on the Ace receiver too. If I can get it to work well it will mean I only need one battery - less weight. I also have a few adams actuators and this is another possibility with this rec.




jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (5/6/2008 5:37:33 PM)

I am curiouse as to if the Rand LR-3 you have has the on board switcher circuit. If it does, you can remove the relay from your receivers and connect the signal wire from the Rand LR-3 to where the relay coil was connected. When you look at the relay coil, one side is to ground, the other side to the output transistor. The side to the transistor is where the Rand's signal wire hooks up once the relay is removed.

If your Rand LR-3 has only two wires, then it has no switcher and you have to use a relay.

The relay was always a bit unreliable, and it is important to orient it so G-forces don't pin it during a hard pullout from a dive. Also, with a relay, it's contacts create noise, which reduces range quite a bit.

I just finished sending a Controliare Ghost back to John Smith in Alaska. His set-up got about 50 feet of range before I re-tuned the transmitter. After the transmitter was tuned, and the receiver then tuned to it, the range was over 250 feet, antenna down.

Send a picture of the LR-3 and your receiver so I can see what version it is.




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/6/2008 10:33:24 PM)

Hello Jay,

I definitely have a Rand LR-3 with on board switcher circuit. There are three wires (green, blue, yellow) going off to the receiver.

The MacGregor receivers that I have are MR60's (relay) and MR50's (relayless). I used the relay versions for testing as I have more of these and I was confident in wiring it up. Both these receivers (MR60 and MR50) run off 9 volts and both require a second battery to power the actuator. The MR50 (relayless) has a simple transistor switch to replace the relay. If it helps they look like very similar to late Futaba single channel units. Even though the MR50 has a transistor switch I am not sure if it will be OK to run the Rand + on board switcher circuit from this receiver. MacGregor always said to use the MR60 (relay) for motorized actuators but they never mentioned the Rand. Do you think it's OK to run the Rand LR-3 with on board switcher using a relayless receiver like the MR50? I have a feeling that it could be but don't want to blow anything!

Yes, I know about G-forces and relays, although I can't imagine it will be much of a problem in a slow flying glider - unless I try to stunt it!

I have not noticed any reduction in range using the MR60 over the MR50 and I have tested a few. I have a MR60 plus escapement in a slope soarer and it flies well. With these MacGregor units experience has shown that 100ft ground range (aerial down) gives about 2000ft ground to air (aerial up). More than enough to fly a small to medium sized model.

I will be able to send pictures tomorrow - if it will help.




boberos -> RE: Ghost help (5/6/2008 11:01:34 PM)

Re post #15

Not sure if extending the antenna from 24 to 30 " is a good idea.
Something about wavelength at play here.
This may sound odd but doubling the original 24" to 48" may be better for tuning the Rx. & maximizing range.
Perhaps Jaymen would comment. He knows more about this stuff than I.

About the only old superhet Rx I have had good, consistent range with is the Ace one.

Bob




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/6/2008 11:23:26 PM)


The other problem (apart from range) that I have with the Controlaire GG Tx is very little rudder movement.




jaymen -> RE: Ghost help (5/7/2008 1:07:08 AM)

Relay could be why limited throw on rudder, contact dwell time may be too little. It's tricky to adjust those relays, I have had only limited success and am no expert. Ken Willard published an excellent article on this in RCM in 1966?

You are smart not to try messing with a 9 volt receiver and a 3.6 volt Rand, the relay is a safer, albeit heavier solution. Be sure to use Nicads, not NmH, this is to insure a full 3.6 volts, and also uase a minimum capacity of 500 mAh or range suffers.

If you have a schematic, check the final output transistor. If it is a PNP type output transistor ( little arrow points inwards on transistor symbol) that has the output wire connected to the transistor's collector lead, then it's adaptable. In order to insure the output signal is 3.6 volts and not 9 volts, a dropping resistor is added to the output transistor's emitter circuit to dissapate the extra 5.4 volts.

If you can send me a drawing/schematic, I can be more precise and calculate the exact values you would have to change to get it working.

But I'm digressing: As Bob said above, you should get good performance out of the Ace. I think you just need to increase the two resistors in the receiver for 3.6 volts, maybe replace a couple caps in the Controlaire(100uf and 15 uf) and retune the Tx, and the tune the Rx to the Tx. With that, it should clean up and really perform well. I seem to remember the Rx. antenna is 24 to 28 inches on most of these rigs, 26 being nominal.

If you have the proper plastic hex tuning wand, you can try re-peaking the large RF transformer, if you do this, tape the throttle switch up in high before tuning with the antenna fully extended. Use the output meter as an indicator. Tune in to peak, and back out a half turn. If the output reads above 9 and goes above 10 with tone on(high throttle), then you have good output. Be careful and don't try to force the tuning slug if it's tight. Instead, with power off, try using a long tip on a soldering iron to warm the slug, be gentle and lightly warm it to soften any wax, then see if it turns. On some, they are stuck, and I have had to live with it. I suppose a drop of ethanol or isopropyl alcohol might loosen the slug, will have to try that next time...

The receiver tuning is performed with an ammeter if you have no osilloscope.

Below is an odd combo: Controlaire Tx, F&M Rx, Rand LR-3(non switcher type), remote Ace/Rand kit switcher. Obviousely done by a real enthusiast back in the day[:D] Belongs to John Smith.




ggeezer -> RE: Ghost help (5/7/2008 9:05:28 AM)

Jay,
The combo shown is a good one and one I also have (except I use the GG Pac with built-in switcher). The best single channel receiver I ever used was the F&M Pioneer Superhet shown.
It is sensitive, stable and very reliable. I used to retrofit this receiver into many reed and early propo systems where there were problems with range and stability. I probably swapped out at least ten systems and always recommended this receiver for all single channel applications. I have always had very good success with the complete line of F&M systems.
What might be causing pulsing problems is the receiver's ability to follow the pulse rate. This is most likely due to a too large a filter capacitor in the final stage of the audio amplifier. This filter is often designed to work with escapements where the pulse rate is much slower. I always change this capacitor in the F&M units from the factory 80 micro farads (if memory serves me) to around 25 uf. This problem effects both relay and relayless receivers.
Orv.




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/7/2008 11:36:43 AM)

Thanks Jay, more good advice!

With the Controlaire GG Tx I am getting limited rudder throw using BOTH the Ace rec. and the MacGregor rec. with replay. The Macgregor GG Tx is fine and you can't tell the difference as far as Rand action goes while running this Tx with the Ace or the MacGregor rec. with relay.

I do have a schematic of the MacGregor rec. and I'll try and post it later. This reminds me. When I started all this vintage radio stuff (a few years back) the first units that I got were MacGregor (maybe I'll explain why later). However, I did not know how to wire these up and as a last resort I emailed the current MacGregor helpline. I did wonder that they might think I was some kind of oddball but to my utter surprise, within 2 hours, I got a reply with a schematic and detailed description. All for gear that had been out of production for over 35 years. Now that's service!




sotonflyer -> RE: Ghost help (5/7/2008 5:28:32 PM)


MacGregor MR60 and MR50 schematic. The circuit at the bottom right is for the MR50 (relayless) transistor switch. It replaces the relay and associated components (for the MR60) shown at the top at the points marked by 'X'.




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