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pylon racer - 5/2/2008 10:17:21 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		Anyone have plans for a pylon racer in the 35 size ?????
       Post #: 1

RE: pylon racer - 5/2/2008 11:19:56 PM   
MrGreenSpeed



Posts: 619
Joined: 12/31/2002
From: Lakewood, NY, USA
Status: offline 		MrCleans flipper would be fun for club pylon racesing .
http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13895&highlight=flipper.

Jeff

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 2

RE: pylon racer - 5/3/2008 1:48:29 PM   
Clean



Posts: 988
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		The wing for the Flipper is the Wing off the Barnstormers Club Racer. Here's the link http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11698&highlight=club+racer

It's a fun flying little plane and was designed to go on a 25 but a 36 would really make it zip.



_____________________________

From Somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane (aka Mr Clean) Rever Brother #168 Time Man of the Year

(in reply to MrGreenSpeed)
       Post #: 3

RE: pylon racer - 5/6/2008 9:05:03 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		THANK YOU for your help.

(in reply to Clean)
       Post #: 4

RE: pylon racer - 5/7/2008 6:41:40 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		CLEAN can you get me the plans for the racer I want to give it a try it will be my first SPAD but it sounds like fun. Oh! and buy the way none of my planes are purdy, but they look great flying buy. Thanks again

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 5

RE: pylon racer - 5/8/2008 1:20:59 AM   
MrGreenSpeed



Posts: 619
Joined: 12/31/2002
From: Lakewood, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Every thing is given except the tail feathers which if You use these formulas You can figure out
Vert stab area 9-10% of the wing area

Hor. stab area 18-20% of the wing area.

Elevator area: 25-50% of the horizontal stab area

Rudder area: 25-50% of the vertical stab area.


From ChrisSpads How to design your own Spad
http://www.chrisspad.com/planes/main/spaddesign/spaddesign.html



Club racer.
The wingspan is 44". Wingtips are 7" and the chord is 10". Ailerons are 1.5". The fuselage is 34". The wing is symmetrical and made of 2 mil. I used 3/4' screen frame for the spar.

Here is MrCleans flipper build pics.
Which shows how He builds the wing and more

EDIT: OOPS looks like some of the build pics are gone sorry

http://www.putfile.com/album/94638?pos=top

May be He can re-post them.


Here is a good post on a symmetrical wing build.
http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11079

Hope this helps.
Jeff

< Message edited by MrGreenSpeed -- 5/8/2008 1:44:46 AM >

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 6

RE: pylon racer - 5/8/2008 12:06:30 PM   
Clean



Posts: 988
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Only other thing I have in a PM

Clean

Here are some dimensions that should get you started.

Wingspan=44"
Tip chord WITHOUT ailerons=5.5"
Root chord WITHOUT ailerons=9.25"
Ailerons=1.25"

Tail
Horizontal Stab
Span=16"
Chord=7.75"
Elevator=2.25"

Vertical Stab
Height=7.25"
Length/chord same as Hor Stab=7.75"
Rudder=2"

The overall fuselage length is 31" from firewall to tail.

Hope this helps. If you need anything else, let me know.

Jeff

_____________________________

From Somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane (aka Mr Clean) Rever Brother #168 Time Man of the Year

(in reply to MrGreenSpeed)
       Post #: 7

RE: pylon racer - 5/8/2008 5:17:02 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hey I really do appreciate all of yall's help and hope I dont get on your nerves but as I said this will be my first build and for some reason most of the how to pics are missing do you know of a book or video out there that will give step by step info. I really want to build this and show up those guys with the ARF's who have tryed to talk me out of doing it. I also would not have a problem paying for fullsize plans. Again thank yall very much!

(in reply to Clean)
       Post #: 8

RE: pylon racer - 5/8/2008 11:12:23 PM   
draftman1


 

Posts: 244
Joined: 9/4/2007
From: Strathmore, CA, USA
Status: offline 		hey that sounds like a great project. I am gonna have to build one also, I will see about drawing up some plans from those measurements. I have done a few spads so for me it will be an easy build, very simular to the combat plans I am doing now

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 9

RE: pylon racer - 5/9/2008 1:15:05 PM   
Clean



Posts: 988
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Browse the spadtothebone site for the DPS, HOR and SPADSTICK plans, read those instructions to get a fill for how to do all the basics. Also, there is a tips and techiques tab there, go over those too. Any specific questions ask us and well answer them, again, then in the future it will be your turn to answer the next new guy. No problems. Looking forward to the questions. And looking forward to seeing pictures of your new Club Racer.

Oh, they come out a little porky if all you have is the american gutter pipe, you might want to try a corofuse in that case. Mines American gutter and it flies ok, but it would be better lighter. Of course, with a 36 up front you really only need to worry about slowing down for a landing.

_____________________________

From Somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane (aka Mr Clean) Rever Brother #168 Time Man of the Year

(in reply to draftman1)
       Post #: 10

RE: pylon racer - 5/15/2008 2:46:47 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		Iam getting all the materials together to give this a shot this weekend. I have done a lot of reading in the past forums and I think Iam ready the only thing Iam not real shure of is the wing could you give me some insight on this do I add coro for the ail. or are they made out of the wing mat. and is there 1 score for the fold or more and how do you make that purdy taper in the wing. Thanks again.

(in reply to Clean)
       Post #: 11

RE: pylon racer - 5/15/2008 7:00:42 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		Iam going to use the woodpecker and glue method on the build how do you ( Mr. Clean) feel about that method I know it will take longer to set but that may give me the time I need to do it right.

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 12

RE: pylon racer - 5/15/2008 8:03:11 PM   
OI812


 

Posts: 33
Joined: 2/2/2006
From: Pensacola , FL, USA
Status: offline 		Oh well just found out nobody in the area has or carries 2mill coro plenty of 4 mill so how will this work with 4mill should I cut down the spar to get the thinner air foil or will it make that much differance Iam building something this weekend so it will be 4mill. Where is a good place to order 2mill from and what size should I have it cut to ship.

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 13

RE: pylon racer - 5/15/2008 9:22:13 PM   
draftman1


 

Posts: 244
Joined: 9/4/2007
From: Strathmore, CA, USA
Status: offline 		harbor sales is a great place to get 2mm, to get the good shipping you have to order it 2 ft x 4 ft and that can be shipped easly. just make sure you order it with the flutes running the right direction. the 2mm wing is a lighter wing. I just built some combat planes and the whole wing is 2mm, man its light!!

(in reply to OI812)
       Post #: 14

RE: pylon racer - 5/16/2008 3:44:24 PM   
Clean



Posts: 988
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Order the 2 mil from Harbor and do it next weekend. You really don't want it any heavier than it has to be. As far as the ailerons, yes, I cut the aileron blank out of 4 mil and then sandwich that between the 2 mil wing skin. I have the aileron area cut out of the 2 mil but not out of the 4 mil. After everything is dried, servos and linkage installed THEN I cut the ailerons free and remove the bottom flute. Be careful, you have a fully functional wing and only need to remove ONE layer of the flute. My Club racer has pin hinges on one side. Wanna guess? But, doing it this way makes sure the linkages are all set at 0 for both halves of the wing.

I almost always use the Poly U method anymore. Clean the area, run the woodpecker over it, make sure it's still clean then mix about an ounce of poly U in a disposable cup with about 1/8 teaspoon of water and stir it till it looks like Honeybutter. Now slather that stuff on with a popsickle stick or rubber squeegie like the ones they sell you to put silicone tub caulk in with so that you force a little of the mixture into those woodpecker holes. If everything is doing right by the time you put the pieces together, the first piece you've put the glue even though you left it looking just a little wet will have a nice coating of foam forming. Don't add any mor