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Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 6:58 AM   
thebronze



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From: Delta/Surrey, BC, CANADA
Status: online 		Was reading a post on Panzerketten, about soaking your bright metal tracks in vinegar. You degrease them and soak them for 3 hrs.....Supposed to make then darker...I'm trying it now....will let You know the results..

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 9:02 AM   
thebronze



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Status: online 		Well...sucess....Soaked them for approx 2 1/2 hrs in plain vinegar and the came out much darker...(They we're the same brightness as the drive wheels)...What do you think??...I'm impressed...Much more realistic than the bright finish I started with...And with use the contact patches will become shiny again like the real thing



< Message edited by thebronze -- 5/6/2008 9:46 AM >

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 9:05 AM   
wackywheelz



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Status: offline 		Very nice, I'm sure plenty will follow (nearly everyone has vinegar laying about), I dare say this will pop up on a few forums shortly

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 9:30 AM   
borealis



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Status: offline 		What a "complete" hobby.
After being a modeller, painter, mechanic and electrician, it is hereby requested to be a chemist too!

< Message edited by borealis -- 5/6/2008 9:31 AM >

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 9:42 AM   
A N Z A C



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Status: offline 		I can see other's trying other chemicals found around the house with this method now

& yes, pimpage would seam in order

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 12:42 PM   
Ern



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Status: offline 		Very nice results! Thank for posting Bronze...

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 12:57 PM   
pattoncommander



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Status: offline 		Looks great....I'll have to do that with my T-84 tracks.. they are supposed to be rubber chevron, but can't seem to keep them black. How did the vinegar effect the lube, ie free movement on the pins?

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 1:14 PM   
Ern



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Status: offline 		Good question PattonCommander... if you degrease before soaking in vinegar, do you then need to REgrease them since you're taking them down to the bare metal?

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 4:19 PM   
thebronze



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Status: online 		Ya...After I superglue all the ends of the pins, I have some liquid graphite that I'll apply

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 4:56 PM   
icecreamslick



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Status: offline 		I love good advice that is easy to follow. THANKS, bronze!

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 5:14 PM   
123Splat


 

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Status: offline 		I'm thinking more along the lines of 'Salad Chef'!

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 10:00 PM   
hatakashi



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Status: offline 		I'm already thinking how much vinegar I need to "dye" all the tracks on my tiger...

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 10:39 PM   
Leon01



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Status: offline 		Came out great Vinger must act like a mild acid wash. And we eat the stuff. Love that tatter salad.

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/6/2008 11:17 PM   
thebronze



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Status: online 		Ya it does....I had them in an old margarine container.....lotsa bubbling going on when i removed the lid

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 12:17 AM   
Prometheum5


 

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Status: offline 		Very cool... I will definitely do this with my Tiger when I get it, as it looks much more realistic than painting the tracks... I wonder tho, if you leave the tracks in the vinegar long enough, do you they dissolve completely?

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 12:27 AM   
thebronze



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Status: online 		After degreasing...leave em in for no more than 3 hrs...Thats what was being discussed on Panzerketten....Make sure you rinse them with fresh water afterwards to remove any traces of the vinager

Here they are on the tank My non s&s Tiger 1





< Message edited by thebronze -- 5/7/2008 12:35 AM >

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 4:39 AM   
Prometheum5


 

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Status: offline 		Hmmm... in those shots they look alot lighter... don't think they'd get much darker with more time in the vinegar... the color of the first photo up top is really spot on tho.

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 5:58 AM   
The_Stuff



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Status: offline 		they definitely look more metal.


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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 6:09 AM   
thebronze



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Status: online 		The flash makes them look lighter than they really are...They are as dark as the tank

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 1:26 PM   
The_Stuff



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Status: offline 		want to try a shot or 2 without the flash? might show up better for contrasting.

pic is for giggles, will remove it soon as everyone has had a good lol.




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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 3:04 PM   
Ern



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Status: offline 		Bronze... you've got me thinking. Anyone know anything about electrolicis [sp?] and maybe darkening the tracks that way, or also possibly using the firearm "Instant Blueing" chemical treatment. I used the Instant Blue several years ago to touch up a gun I scratched and it worked great. Just dab it on [or a quick soak in this case], rinse it off, and wipe it down with gun oil. Might be an alternative with a darker result. I don't have metal tracks yet, but expect to order them within the next couple weeks or I'd try the blueing method. Any gunsmiths out there??

Here's a link to one of the gun blue products: http://www.vansgunblue.com/

Oh, BTW... love the "Flash" pictures!!

< Message edited by Ern -- 5/7/2008 3:07 PM >

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 4:38 PM   
wackywheelz



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Status: offline 		Someone did it with the gun-blue stuff, dunno who it was but I remember reading it and thinking "I wonder where i could find that stuff?"

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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/7/2008 10:18 PM   
The_Stuff



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Status: offline 		think would be kinda neat on a "funky tank: would be that anaodized look. kinda purple and rainbow like.


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RE: Dark Tracks - 5/8/2008 12:56 AM   
Cav Scout


 

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Status: offline 		Gun Blueing (which contains selenium dioxide to cause the reaction) will darken your track in a range from black to dark brown to very rusty/brown ((in order)) depending on how long you leave it in the solution. If you just want to darken your track a "little bit/ knock the brightness out of it, then just use the venigar. "Perma Blue", by Birchwood-Casey, can be bought in 4 oz bottles at Walmart, most hardware stores that sell hunting gear, and most gun shops it normally costs around 4-5 USD. it's just one of many types of gun blueing available but they mostly all have selenium dioxide. I used gun blueing exclusively to darken my track until December, then i switched to a product called "Rail Weathering Solution", it's made by Micro Engineering cost me 26.00 USD for a 16 oz bottle, in December 07. This stuff has selenium dioxide also. Its sold for model rail roaders to weather their rail. I normally mix it 50 : 50 (water : solution). When i take it out of the solution i dip the track in cold water to stop the reaction. some people just let it stop on it's own as it dries, it's up to the user. no matter how long you leave it in the solution, it will create a build up on the track in the crevices/corners, the longr you leave it in the greater the build-up will be. i normally brush some of the build-up away if it's built up pretty thick, that's personal preference. i like some track looking rusty but i like darker track too, depends on what "I" want "my" model to look like, with this stuff you can vary the look the way "you" want. As for lubricants, you have to clean it off the track before using the solution, lubricants will prevent the solution from contacting the metal and reacting.

the rail weathering solution can be bought from N Scale Supply http://www.nscalesupply.com


Photos below:
the KT track was done with Rail Weathering Solution (15 minutes in solution, fisrt attempt, then an additional 15 minutes the next day) the Sherman track was done with Rail Solution (11 minutes) the K. Kong Panther track was done with Rail solution (5 minutes). Somewhere in this forum there is a thread on weathering Panther track, there is a photo of some IMPACT panther track that was darkened to rusty/brown with Perma Blue and then washed with burnt umber. The track in this post is all done with the Rail Weathering Solutiona the KT track has some dirt on it that's Carolina soil/clay, i ran the tank on a damp day so the soil stuck. I am talking about "South" Carolina, not the former 'Southern- Virginia Area' : )

cs






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