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just bought my first kit build - 5/6/2008 8:35:17 PM   
larscato


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 10/14/2007
From: SortlandSortland, NORWAY
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hi

Does any of you got some info on this kit I just bought from one of my model flying friends?

I have never put together anything but arf`s before so Im afraid that this kit, due to its age is a bit to difficult for my first kit build?

How old is this kit really and how good/bad is it.

Sorry if my English sucks

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/6/2008 9:16:54 PM   
gboulton



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From: La Vergne, TN, USA
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Pilot Ok models...went away in the late 90's, apparently their factory burned down.

Only info I can find on them was a discussion about 4 years ago over on RCGroups.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188622

Maybe that can serve as a starting point for you.

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(in reply to larscato)
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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/7/2008 4:11:07 AM   
CustomPC


 

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From: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
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They're still available in Japan and Singapore hobbies still stock a range of their kits and accessories. Give them a call if you need anything that mentioned in the plans/manual such as retracts, motor mounts etc.

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/7/2008 8:33:32 PM   
smedsky


 

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From: Kirkland, WA, USA
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I built a Stagger Wing many years ago after many years of building and Icertainly wouldn't consider it a first build by any means. That does not mean that the Zero wouldn't go together easier

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/8/2008 1:30:26 PM   
john46


 

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Joined: 5/3/2008
From: Postville, IA, USA
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I would say this
Just fallow your lay out sheet and you should be fine I Just put together a F6F hellcat and it turned out very nice for my first time of Building an airplane I cant wait to get it in the air Have fun while Building it and remember to take a Break once in a while

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/10/2008 6:17:12 PM   
larscato


 

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Joined: 10/14/2007
From: SortlandSortland, NORWAY
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thanks for all the info

Just wondering.People say different things regarding what glue to use when building.I was hoping that thin CA would be ok to glue pretty much the intire model together with?
I will offcourse use epoxy when extra strenght is required,firewall,wing joining ect.

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/11/2008 4:04:41 AM   
chashint


 

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From: Rowlett, TX, USA
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Thin and medium CA pretty much hold my kit planes together along with epoxy where needed.

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Charlie

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/13/2008 3:38:06 PM   
thibor


 

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From: Antwerp, BELGIUM
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Hey,

Thin CA is only to be used when you have a really thight fit!!
Medium CA does fill some gaps and cures a bit slower, therefor resulting in a stronger joint.

I try to work with Titebond II woodglue as much as possible (and epoxy where needed of course), it tacs but way slower than CA, giving you just that extra time to set up everything in place and gives a stronger joint than CA. I do use medium CA whenever it's to much of a job to fit everything quikly in place with Titebond.

For some people CA gives a lot of smell and get dizzy... I'm one of them, woodglue is pretty much smellfree.

Nevertheless, CA is a very fine glue and is plenty strong if used correctly. I just prefer the Titebond.

Phil

(in reply to chashint)
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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/13/2008 10:52:33 PM   
larscato


 

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From: SortlandSortland, NORWAY
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got a bit done on my Zero today.The next step in the manual is to sheet the bottom and top of the fuselage.What is the best way to do this?Where do i start?

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/14/2008 3:13:52 AM   
Vinnie6



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From: Elgin, IL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: thibor

Hey,

Thin CA is only to be used when you have a really thight fit!!
Medium CA does fill some gaps and cures a bit slower, therefor resulting in a stronger joint.

I try to work with Titebond II woodglue as much as possible (and epoxy where needed of course), it tacs but way slower than CA, giving you just that extra time to set up everything in place and gives a stronger joint than CA. I do use medium CA whenever it's to much of a job to fit everything quikly in place with Titebond.

For some people CA gives a lot of smell and get dizzy... I'm one of them, woodglue is pretty much smellfree.

Nevertheless, CA is a very fine glue and is plenty strong if used correctly. I just prefer the Titebond.

Phil


I too use Titebond II. It is flexible, ultra lightweight, and very inexpensive. That's why I like it.

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(in reply to thibor)
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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/14/2008 11:36:29 AM   
mike109



Posts: 101
Joined: 7/25/2004
From: DubboNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
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I guess that you have to sheet it so that the balsa is curved around the frame? To do this it is good if you can put a curve in the balsa before you actually try to fit it. You can make balsa bend better by wetting the outside with water or better with a mixture of cloudy ammonia and water (I think about 10% ammonia but I am sure someone will tell us if I am way out).If you then bend the balsa round some sort of form until it dries it will be far easier to fit to the ariframe. To actually attach it to the frame, I would use medium CA such as Zap green. Put the zap on the frame then fold the balsa round the frame and hold it in place with rubber bands or masking tape until the glue goes off. You can also use wood glue to do this but you need to be more careful about how you hold it in place until the adhesive dries.

If the bottom of the fuse is flat, you would usually sheet with the grain across the frame but when the balsa has to go round a curve, then you usually sheet with the grain running parallel to the axis of the curve.

A small matter also - if you are going to fit push rods or tubes for push rods to run in, it is better and easier to fit them before sheeting the frame. And don't forget to secure the tubes at both ends and also at least once in between the ends inside the fuse.

The easiest mistake to make when building a wing (apart from building two left halves) is to put the two halves together with a twist between them. Be very careful when you are joining the two halves that you do not introduce a twist in the wing. I sometimes use two pieces of MDF (medium density fibreboard) to create a bent building board so that I can get the alignment right. For building the wing, I use a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF which I know is perfectly flat with a sheet of soft fibreboard on top. I then put the wing plan on the board and cover it with Glad Wrap or better still freezer "go-between" plastic sheet or other clear plastic sheet so that I can pin the elements of the wing to the board and glue them in place without gluing them to the plan.

You will find that you need sharp knife blades, a razor saw, some big hobby pins, a small square or two, some small clamps, a small plane and assorted sandpaper glued to blocks of wood. Offcuts from shops that make kitchens are good for sanding blocks. I just glue the paper to the block with thick CA.

CA is good stuff but Great Planes aliphatic (sp?) resin (yellow wood glue) is good stuff too because it is flexible and cheap and in a prang.

Hope this helps a bit.

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If it''s not right on the ground - it won''t get better in the air. Club Saito # 597

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RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/14/2008 4:32:07 PM   
larscato


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 10/14/2007
From: SortlandSortland, NORWAY
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ok,thanks.it is only he top and bottom of the fuselage that are going to be sheeted.I was just wondering if It is best to cover it with small sheets of balsa or use one big sheet.?

(in reply to mike109)
       Post #: 12

RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/15/2008 12:15:46 AM   
mike109



Posts: 101
Joined: 7/25/2004
From: DubboNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
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If one sheet will do it, you can just use one piece but it is usually easier to mark the centre line and use one piece for each side starting at the centre. Of course, it it is flat, then I would put the grain across for strength in which cases you use several pieces cut acrsoo the sheet. Have fun. Mike

_____________________________

If it''s not right on the ground - it won''t get better in the air. Club Saito # 597

(in reply to larscato)
       Post #: 13

RE: just bought my first kit build - 5/15/2008 1:32:03 AM   
Krener


 

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From: AS, AUSTRALIA
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Sheeting is pretty easy once you do one, depending on compund curves etc.

This fuse looks like it will take 2 sheets to get the width you need at the thickest portion of the fuse (just behind the cockpit)
To make things easier you need to edge glue the two sheets together along their length.
First lay each sheet on a flat board and place a ruler on one side along the length of the sheet, cut it so you you end up with a perfect straight edge, this will be the edge you glue to the next sheet.
Place the sheets together so the edges you just cut are hard up against each other and lay a strip of masking tape down the join, this will allow you to flex the sheets backwards and aplly glue to the join without having to juggle two sheets and will also give you a near perfect seam once the glue has cured (use Titebond for this join as it's flexible and sands better than CA, CA will NOT flex and will be a bugger to sand)

After the glue has cured you will have one nice long & wide sheet, here is where the slightly tricky part comes in (it's ALOT easier to do this with another pair of hands)
Spray the sheet you made with Windex (ammonia based glass cleaner) and allow it to soak in for a bit, I usually wait 15mins before checking.
As the Windex soaks into the balsa it will soften up and become more plyable/rubbery, if it is still a bit to stiff apply more Windex a