bigedmustafa

My Feedback: (2)

With all of the shortages regarding inexpensive Chinese engines as of late, I thought a few folks might be interested in Sig's recent markdown of their Aviastar .46 and Aviastar .53 2-stroke ball bearing engines.

The Aviastar .46 2-stroke has been reduced to $49.99 from $59.99, and the Aviastar .53 2-stroke has been reduced to $69.99 from $79.99. You can order these engines through any LHS that orders direct from Sig Manufacturing, the part numbers are AVI46 and AVI53 respectively. You can also order directly from Sig's website at http://www.sigmfg.com.

As Sig is the exclusive North American distributor for Aviastar/Aviatech engines, they are also your point of contact for spare parts and warranty service if needed.

Jezmo

That's a pretty good price. Wish they made a 40, I'd try it I'm wanting a GMS 40 for my Club 40 racer.

Ken6PPC

If you are looking for a .40 2S, you may be interested in this one in the For Sale section of RCU.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=391928

Note that I have NO CONNECTION with this at all! I have never even seen this engine. I just saw the ad, and I thought it was priced right.

bigedmustafa

My Feedback: (2)

The new July 2008 issue of Fly RC actually has an Andrew Coholic review of the Aviastar .53 2-stroke:

"The Aviastar AV .53 is a solid engine at a budget price. It features materials and a build quality that equal those of many more expensive engines. It runs well and has respectable power for its size. It should appeal to many modellers and is suitable for many types of models."

The review includes idle and peak rpms for a wide variety of APC prop sizes. These look like very nice engines.

jeffie8696

I just bought an Avistar .46 and I plan to do a full shakedown. I have done some break in already and made an early run using Sig 5% nitro with 20% castor and on a Master Airscrew 11X6 it already is turning in 13,000 on a conservative tune. So far I'm impressed! Hand flip starts on the first try already. And the price !!! [X(]

jeffie8696

The Aviastar is listed in the user reviews under Aviatronics. With a name like Aviatronics I would have thought they made electric motors.

jeffie8696

I just heard a rumor that SIG only has a limited number of the Aviastar .46s in stock at the $49.00 price so if you want one I would hurry. I am thinking of getting another, wish I could justify it. I wonder if they would trade me my Megatech .61 for an Aviastar .53? (Yea Right!!!)[sm=lol.gif] I bet that Aviastar .53 would outright kick it's chunky buttox.

I just found out someone from the SIG fly-in bolted a 13X4 on his Aviastar .46 and is flying it in a Yak something. And likes it. I knew it would turn a 12" without complaint but wow a 13"? Something is right about that engine. [8D]

jeffie8696

I had a small problem with the idle on my 'star .46 but SIG stood behind it and sent me a new carb. It Is Now Perfect!!!!!!!

flymac

jeffie I think you have stock in this company.
Anyway I just got mine today. What is that screw on the top of the carb for?

jeffie8696

Me, No stock. I am just the self appointed one man cheerleading section. Hope you enjoy your engine as much as I do. I got the new carb from SIG today and it rocks. I believe the spray bar was built for a bigger engine. Just my hypotenoose. The screw in the top is just the pin that runs in the helical groove of the barrel to retain it. You shouldn't have to touch it ever as far as I know. Give it an easy break in , if yours is as tight as mine was for the first few tanks.

flymac

Thanks for the info jeffie. It didn't look like an idle screw to me. I will follow the instructions that came with the 46 for break in. Looks like a nice engine and the review RCKen did pushed me towards the purchase. Not to mention your crusade, I'm glad you let us know about it.

jeffie8696

Now you are making me blush. I just think we are entitled to get the best the market has to offer. Why pay double for an engine that has a different name but does the same thing? I know I can put that money to good use somewhere else. Fuel is a current critical consideration.

davidgeorge212

i must have gotten a bad motor because The avistar 46 I have is not real easy to start. It takes a couple of flips to start. But once it gets running after a couple minutes it will get hot and just quit randomly. I havent been able to run a full tank of gas through it yet without the motor unexpectenly stopping. my motor just runs real hot and acts like it over heats or something. I droped the glow plug down to a #3 and I am only using 15% nitro in it. Does anyone have suggestions as to what I could do to make my motor run better?


Thanks, David G.

flymac

When I broke my engine in, I ran it somewhat rich. Trying to start it by hand was a little difficult because it was so tight. I used my starter on it, fired right up. After a tank or two it loosened up, now I can flip it with my fingers. I used Wildcat PLus 10% nitro with 18% oil.

davidgeorge212

I have been trying to run mine rich to break it in but it just does not want to stay running reliably. It will be perfectly tuned one second and then you adjust the throttle a little and it sputters and dies. It is getting a little better though I half to admit. I havent tried to get a whole lot of rpms out of it yet though.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Don't run ABC engines rich - period.

I'm assuming that you are running it blubbery rich, to where it is four-cycling. This is a big No-No with tapered bore engines (ABC/ABN). You will destroy the engine with this kind of running. IF that is what you are doing.

I don't know you and I wasn't there when you ran the engine, so please keep this in mind. I do not intend for my comments to be insulting.

A rich two-cycle, non blubbering, is okay. Perhaps this is what you are doing?

You NEED a fuel with some castor oil in it. A little bit of castor might get you by, but at least half castor lube would be best for break-in.

Choose a prop that is at the small end of the prop size chart for this engine. Heat is the enemy during break-in. Save the big lumber for later. Good luck.


Ed Cregger

jeffie8696

Have to agree with Ed. I ran mine for the first few tanks on 5%nitro 20% all castor and about 1/3 throttle since it was so tight. Just under a 4 cycle so it wasn't blubbery. Now that it is broke in it is perfect. After probably a gallon and a half of assorted fuels it still has a lot of pinch and enough compression to run FAI fuel. They don't break in easy like ABN engines but once broke in they will go ang go and go etc etc.

davidgeorge212

I switched two an 11x5 and it did run better. The 15% nitro fuel I have I also put in extra castroil as well. I always put in a little castroil to all of my fuel for extra lubrication. I have 7 or 8 tanks ran through my engine so far and It definately is getting better I can tell. I am an all OS engine man but I won this motor in a door prize at a contest and I thought I would give it a try (free and all). I might just stick it on a little funfly plane that I dont care to much about when I get it running better.

David G.

davidgeorge212

I know I wasnt four cycling it because the motor just would not run that rich. I have the high end where it is running good now but I still need some more work on the low end to get a better idol.

jeffie8696

Don't give up on it. mine took a long time to break in and smooth out too. Thankfully the good people at SIG stand behind these engines. I did have to replace the carb on mine but the new one transformed it. I think this engine has standard parts with larger engines and mine may have had carb internals from the larger one. Makes mongo power and now mine idles perfect! I would also check for leaks , tight bolts , the usual.

flymac

Mongo power is right. It nearly pulled my test stand over, no lie.

JohnMcGowan

My Feedback: (15)

Is this who I call Opie by chance? (David)
John

flymac

Hi jeffie, what kind of problem did you have with the idle? I ask because mine seems to idle fine, but when I go to full throttle it is very rich with lots of smoke and hesitation. I have adjusted LS needle and leaned it so much that it only goes to half throttle and quits. I took the carb off and readjusted it according to the manual, tried again but no joy. I have tried 1/8 turn at time but end up at the very lean condition again. Is there something i should look for on the carb that indicates it is the wrong one?

Thanks

jeffie8696

The only thing I can see is the old spray bar may have a larger hole than the new one. They also like a very hot plug in my opinion. That might help. It would be the first thing I changed, may I ask what fuel you are using?

flymac

The plug I have is ancient since I just got back into this hobby. I will get some new ones then. The fuel is Wildcat 10% nitro, 18% oil (80% synthetic, 20% degummed racing castor).