RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (Full Version)

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shanty140 -> RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 3:18:35 AM)

Hey,

I was wondering, I already have ordered some Super Diff kits from MIP for when my diffs go. But I was wondering. Is it a good idea to also order the steel input gear and diff gear. Or is it a bad idea. I thought it would be good because the Savage has steel diffs and pinion gears. And think maybe it may not be any different, but what do I know.

Thanks
Shawn




KRO -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 3:55:49 AM)

Will it make the drivetrain stronger ? Yes , but if you shim the diffs correctly the plastic gears last a long time .

Are you going brushless ?




jaejw1 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 3:57:43 AM)

check one18th.com they have a thread talking about this already... guys that have them love them




Dan|zu -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 4:49:44 AM)

HOW many shims is a good shim????




ludeman -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 4:58:55 AM)

I have them in my RC18 and love them as well. They are a little tight at first so you kind of need to break them in. IMO you also need the titanium spur gear as well.




KRO -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 4:58:59 AM)

I wouldnt use more than 3 or 4 .




pinoyboy -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 5:16:09 AM)

I wouldn't, especially if your not experienced in shimming the diffs. If you get it wrong, thats at least an $8 mistake instead of being only a $4 mistake, and if your parts aren't from a local lhs, thats at least 3 days lost due to shipping. Then its back to shimming, this time you should get it it almost perfect, but you won't really know until you get some run time on it and re-examine it. I'm running 4S and the stock gears work great.

If you want your drivetrain to be stronger, do some searching about putting your plastic gears in boiling/hot wire. The good thing if it actually does work, its basically free!




Gex_61 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 6:35:57 AM)

TheToyz just got some in stock, after not having any for months. Order quickly if you plan on getting any. Shims can only do so much. A steel input gear is a steel input gear.

I was also wondering if it would be a good idea to use the steel input gear with a plastic diff gear. Wouldn't that make the input gear last even longer. That is the piece that always strips out. I have a bunch of diff gears that are still good. It sucks that nobody sells the input gear by itself.




pinoyboy -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 3:15:55 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: rocketrobinnm

Comparing your Savage or any other nitro to a RC18 is kind of silly as they aren't close to the same thing, scale or power source, and the reason most nitros have steel diffs is because of the power and torque generated by those nitro engines while the electrics (especially the minis) don't have the stress concerns. AND, if one does go to steel diffs then they have to realize that part of their now increased routine maintenance is greasing the diffs since metal on metal wears if it's not lubed regularly and properly.

Personally, I wouldn't waste the time or the money. People that properly take care of (and thus maintain) the stock plastic diffs get plenty of service out of them, I have the orginal set of gears in mine that I've raced for two seasons, and plastic diff gears are really cheap to replace while the steel is expensive. Save your money for something more worthwhile.


I agree 100%. 2 steel diff and inout gears is $28+ shipping from the toyz. Its pretty inevitble that you might need one more just incase the shimming isn't right, so thats $42 + shipping. Thats 14 stock plastic diff and input gears.

I'd personally use that money to buy some CVDs(if you don't have any yet) or the new Exotek slipper
http://www23.instantestore.net/merchant10762/pd-rc18tb-slipper-clutch-set.cfm

Even metal gears will still not be happy if your punching the gas while landing a jump or doing full throttle from a stanstill. The slipper will alleviate the load and keep your drivetrain happy




maybelater29 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/9/2008 8:33:44 PM)

The slipper is a great idea for saving diff gears. I don't use shims on my diffs, I know crazy. I boil and haven't replaced them yet (20 packs). I run a Tekin mini rage and a Tekin 6.9kv or a hyperion yc22s 5000kv, I'm only running Elite 1500 nimh so I might be replacing gears more often when I go with a lipo. I had the diffs shimed before and couldn't figure out where my drivetrain was hanging up, I tried everything before removing the shims, now my drivetrain is free and smooth which helps alot.




calvino -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 4:57:54 AM)

i have the metal diff gears and LOVE THEM, they shure take a beating [:D], you know, you can also set your diffs a little loose to also act like slippers[8D]




shanty140 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 1:20:49 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: calvino

i have the metal diff gears and LOVE THEM, they shure take a beating [:D], you know, you can also set your diffs a little loose to also act like slippers[8D]


How is the rotating mass. I read that they have some effect on the performance because there's a little more mass to get rolling. Did you notice anything or no?




Beomagi -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 4:13:16 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: shanty140


quote:

ORIGINAL: calvino

i have the metal diff gears and LOVE THEM, they shure take a beating [:D], you know, you can also set your diffs a little loose to also act like slippers[8D]


How is the rotating mass. I read that they have some effect on the performance because there's a little more mass to get rolling. Did you notice anything or no?



Really doesn't. It's heavier, sure - but not enough to make much difference. We're talking just a few grams here. Using metal diffs in my rc18r.

They really do stand up to brutal amounts of motor force (not talking mambas).
Can't say anything about wear, since I've not been running the rc18r for that long, and well, being an rc18r, the wheels are smaller, so there's less force too.




Gex_61 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 5:58:48 PM)

rocketrobinnm- I think the metal gears without grease or maintenance will last much longer than the plastic gears. I also suggested that you use the plastic diff gear with the metal input gear. I’m glad to hear you haven’t had a problem with the stock gears. I have had problems with them from day one, using both stock brushed motors and brushless. I properly take care of all of my cars, especially the ones I know to have gear problems.

pinoyboy- You could mess up the shimming on the front and back, so you should buy at least four of them (sarcasm). I’m sure you only need to buy two. If you want to buy an extra, that’s up to you. I’m sure I could easily find 9-10 stripped input gears in my garage. That doesn’t just mean that I have already spent the money I could have used to buy the metal gears, but I know that there have been many races I was unable to finish, and a lot of time spent in the pits fixing the car. I already feel like I am tiptoeing around the track with this car, trying not to strip a gear. The gears should be able to handle some kind of stress from landing jumps and accelerating. This problem should have been fixed with stronger gears or a slipper before it left the Associated's hands.

I haven’t seen a complaint about these gears from someone who does own them, so maybe you should order one and see for yourselves. You could just order a rear pair, $13, since this is where the most stress is. More rotating mass? Good lord, seriously? If you want to argue about it, then I guess you would win; but the last time I checked, you weren’t Adam Drake.

Calvino- Don’t let your diffs slip. You’ll flat spot your balls, melt plastic, etc…






thedr -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 6:10:11 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Gex_61
I think the metal gears without grease or maintenance will last much longer than the plastic gears.


REALLY ???

You "think" they will ?

Metal on metal with no lubrication ?



OK dude, whatever you say [;)][:)][:D][8D]




Gex_61 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 6:10:27 PM)

I'm not saying they wont wear, and of coarse you would use lubrication. I'm saying they will last longer than the plastic gears because the plastic gears suck.




rschoi_75 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 6:22:08 PM)

ok, this is a little off topic, but relevant none the less...

I noticed that most of my problems were solved by using alloy diff cases. The stock plastic cases were the major problem in my rc18. Even with shimming, they would still flex during hard bashing sessions, and thus strip the gears. Once I changed over, shimming was no longer needed since the mesh was kept firmly in place. Just a thought...

Ok, you guys can go back to arguing now... [:D]




ludeman -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 7:33:08 PM)

This argument is moot point. If you like plastic and they work for you fine then have at it. If however you have had problems and are sick and tired of alway replacing your cheap plastic gears then try the steel ones. I believe Gex does not abuse his car but still strips them. I however do abuse my little rc18t and the steel gears work great. After 5 months I tore them down to see how they were holding up and to my surprise they had almost no wear. I just lubed and off and running again. I am so tired of this whole "rotating mass" argument. Of course its more mass but if you change anything on your car it has to potential to alter the handling or "RM". I think that the gears are so center line that they make less of a difference then alloy arms and shock towers do. I was running a Mamba 8000kv with the steel diffs with no problem but as soon as I put on the billet kit it got so heavy the the little mamba started to cogg and strain. So I swapped it for a ammo and now it will do at least 50mph and back filps on demand. Like I said I abuse this little truck so bad that now my chassis is starting to crack but not my drive tran. So for people like Gex and I will spend a little more for something that we see value in for more reliability. Dont be elitist and make people sound stupid for stating what works for them, it is a hobby after all.




ludeman -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 10:02:05 PM)

Funny thing is I had this one but hit a 1 inch rock on the street going full speed and blew the front end apart[:D] So I went back to the stock plastic one and now because all the stress from the alloy arm is starting to crack the pin holders. I have to quit putting 11v lipo in[:D]




Beomagi -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 10:21:44 PM)

Yeah I found that there must be some plastic to give otherwise something will be damaged. What broke on the 3R chassis? The carbon fibre?




ludeman -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 10:47:11 PM)

The alloy they use is super thin and busted out of the side, bent the arm pin and stripped the screws that hold the front brace in. No way to replace it without a new kit so that was kind of a waste of money. I'm thinking about going back to the plastic arms just to have the "give factor" Hmmmm or maybe I should try this one but then I would need this.




Beomagi -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 11:07:59 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: ludeman

The alloy they use is super thin and busted out of the side, bent the arm pin and stripped the screws that hold the front brace in. No way to replace it without a new kit so that was kind of a waste of money. I'm thinking about going back to the plastic arms just to have the "give factor" Hmmmm or maybe I should try this one but then I would need this.


I've found the gpm alloy to be soft. I went with the hotracing chassis instead (though i can't compare the chassis directly, and I think they've sold out). gpm's machining is usually spot on though - and that chassis is cheaper than it was a few months ago - it WAS selling for about $50, so it's not a bad time to capitalize on that. For arms, I always try to go plastic - even after buying the fullforcerc kit for my mini-t, I put on the stock plastic arms since they do better in a crash. I've found that even if I don't break the arms, The pins shatter, or pivot block will get damaged. My rc18t is using rpm's.




ludeman -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/10/2008 11:59:30 PM)

-"The problem I see with going to a alloy chassisplate such as the one you noted is that they have little in the way of torsional rigidity and thus bend (or get a twist in them) very easily - which leaves one with a mishandling vehicle. "

No its the opposite, because it's so rigid that it does not give the way plastic or nylon would. But in the end your still right[:)] Damn It's so easy to get bit by the Alloy bug[&:]

Beomagi:
So those are stronger then the stock ones? Dont the blue ones look all nasty after a few runs?[;)]




Beomagi -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/11/2008 12:34:39 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: ludeman
No its the opposite, because it's so rigid that it does not give the way plastic or nylon would. But in the end your still right[:)] Damn It's so easy to get bit by the Alloy bug[&:]

Beomagi:
So those are stronger then the stock ones? Dont the blue ones look all nasty after a few runs?[;)]


Agree - I was tired of the flex of the stock chassis, and in every bit and way to get a better handling rc18t, I tried the alloy chassis and it feels awesome ;)

When I bought the 3racing chassis like you did, I did it because I wanted to make my own chassis, but wanted all the extra parts like hinge points, etc. That had it all. I didn't like the front piece that gpm uses, because it looked like a weakpoint (though, pro - it's replaceable)

I cut my chassis from high impact polyethylene. Then added parts as I saw fit. The final modification was to thin the chassis for the losi buggy body, and make the servo mount stronger.. No flex, plus tough as nails.

I just checked it since that made me curious. There's ONE deepish scratch on it...
On looking at the stock arms in my box, even those are fairly free of heavy scratches. Looking closer there are a few slight scratches, but it's not easily seen, and I had to look hard to see the dig. I don't think it's going to be visible enough to look nasty for a looong time. There ARE black heavy nylon arms as well if that preferred. The arms don't take hits really. Just the stress of the wheels clipping on stuff at speed.




shanty140 -> RE: RC18T Steel Diff and Input gears Yes/No (5/11/2008 1:04:25 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: Gex_61

I haven’t seen a complaint about these gears from someone who does own them, so maybe you should order one and see for yourselves. You could just order a rear pair, $13, since this is where the most stress is. More rotating mass? Good lord, seriously? If you want to argue about it, then I guess you would win; but the last time I checked, you weren’t Adam Drake.




Oh I am not trying to argue about it. I am just wanting to hear people thoughts about it. Where I heard this from was a person on one18th.com. LOL Adam Drake got not on me :P. JK

Thanks for the help Gex_61 and everyone else.

LOL this is getting into a heated debate.




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