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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/16/2008 7:10:44 PM   
da Rock



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Avaiojet

Da Rock,

Great observations.

Here's why it's difficult to determin weight "before" construction. In construction, with model airplanes, the designer can choose woods and chemicals. No two builders work the same?


The question was what weight. The answer is "strong enough to survive, light enough to want it to survive."

It's actually not hard to make the decisions you mention. Any experienced builder expands his understanding of what wood is needed where and refines as he goes.
I've got a couple of boxes of balsa in my shop. I used to take a Triner scale to the LHSs whenever they got in new shipments of wood. I'd weigh and mark each piece that looked worth buying. Some contest grade is too weak no matter what the weight. Some is too heavy no matter what the strength. One box in the shop has the contest balsa that was outstanding.


quote:

It's the calculated use of these elements that the builder can use to actually keep his weight down. My goal.

One example would be the use of balsa spars VS. hard wood spars, This model should have forward and rear spars. I expect to have D tube construction with one rear spar centered in the rib. Possibly hard wood for this spar but certainly hard balsa.

The design calls for twice as many ribs as needed, just for scale appearence. So, in actuality, I could use soft balsa for half of the ribs and hard balsa for the other half.

If I wanted to take it this far.


Do you?
So what you were really looking for in your original post was a string of answers to all your building choices?


quote:

Each and every area of construction can be dealt with the same way. Built up stab and sheeted VS. solid.
So, with consideration to all these areas, the builder can build a really light model for it's size.
A table could be made from the "results" of other modeling projects. All a modeler has to do is supply the following"
Wingspan, wing area, engine choice and engine weight, and the total weight of the model with the engine in place.
Comparing the results of many models and determining wing loadings, could help me considerably.

Unfortunately, noone has published their notes from all their building jobs. I'm sure my competition stunter notes wouldn't help you much. But if you want to know what designs (foam wing, cored foam wing, foam ribs, D-tube vs I-beam spars, sheet stabs, etc etc) can be built lightly enough for your choice of size and powerplant, all of them can. By a builder who is experienced in the type he chooses. Probably the last category that demanded the very lightest design that had to stand the greatest stress was C/L Precision Aerobatics. Unfortunately, they didn't evolve to your chosen size. But you're just about to mention the perfect answer to your request ->>>>>>

quote:

Dick has a life long histry of building light. His efforts and results has proved this.

His Jungmeister at 17lbs with 1800 SQs. is a fine example. Thing is, will modelers offer this information and will it be accurate?

Charles


It's not exactly your specs, but if you were to use the same construction it'd work. So your next question is probably, "how do I make sure I build it like Dick did?" You don't. But you do what taught Dick what he knows. Build it and see.

Advice on how to wind up as an experienced builder? You're already starting out great. Pick an experienced builder's models to copy. Copy the ones the size you are going to build. If you don't copy the model exactly, then copy the general design. If you've got Dick's old construction articles, what more do you need? If you don't have his articles, use any you have. And try to find any of models that beat Dick's. chuckle...... Not an easy task. But copying other successful model designs is how lots of good modelers found out what to do and how to do it.

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/16/2008 7:19:52 PM   
da Rock



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quote:

"Has anyone else ever attempted to determine the approximate weight of a model "before" the build?"


Yes, but most people simply choose structure with a proven history for the size model they desire. They usually do that by looking at construction articles that are pertinent. Nowadays, you won't find many, unfortunately. But you can certainly look at the models that're flying today.

So for your problem, look at the weights of models that are your size. Focus on ones that fly as you wish your design to fly. And use whatever structure you've seen that works and attempt to build as good and as light as it is.

That plan has worked for thousands of designers.

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is... - 5/16/2008 9:39:32 PM   
Avaiojet


 

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Wellss,

Thanks for the response and suggestion. I appreciate it.

The Gulfhawk has approx. 44 ribs in the top wing. If you devide 44 into 69.5 that leaves a rib spacing of 1.5". I was gearing up for 3/32" thick ribs.

Keep in mind that some ribs have to support hard spots and should be made of light ply.

The wing has to be fabric covered also.

Charles

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is... - 5/16/2008 10:03:49 PM   
Avaiojet


 

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I do appreciate this help.

Thanks guys!

Charles

< Message edited by Avaiojet -- 5/16/2008 10:04:55 PM >

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/17/2008 2:07:12 AM   
Avaiojet


 

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da rock,

Thank you for you reply and what is certainly advice I will follow.

I appreciate it.

FYI. I think Dick learned to build from looking at Inca Ruins on a Holiday he was on. You know, the ones where they place 10,000 lb stones on top of each other and you can't slide a new dollar bill in anywhere.

How does Dick close seams like that? Even 20 years ago he had that Inca magic.

Charles

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< Message edited by Avaiojet -- 5/17/2008 2:10:36 AM >

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is... - 5/17/2008 2:32:44 AM   
da Rock



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You have mentioned something that is extremely interesting. The gear you are designing, and the fact that it is not Wildcat gear, is very interesting. Do you have any pictures or drawings?

Part of the design process is to choose materials that provide appropriate strength and weight for the part sizes needed. With model airplanes for example, balsa spars are the appropriate choice for models of a certain size range. Go larger than the range and balsa does not provide the strength, even in larger sizes, that is required. For the size parts your gear mechanism is going to require, I'm betting that there are easily gotten metals that will more than suit the strength requirement.

So, maybe you can point us to old pictures of the gear?

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is... - 5/17/2008 5:08:29 AM   
combatpigg



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Interesting thread, brings up mathematic considerations I've never considered.
Balsa spars are like playing Russian Roulette, stick to using Sitka Spruce.

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is... - 5/17/2008 10:39:31 AM   
da Rock



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quote:

ORIGINAL: combatpigg

Interesting thread, brings up mathematic considerations I've never considered.
Balsa spars are like playing Russian Roulette, stick to using Sitka Spruce.



Experienced builders pick the type wood for spars based on the size of the model. Spruce in a park flyer wouldn't be appropriate. Balsa spars in a big bird wouldn't be appropriate. With some 40-60size models, spruce without the support of vertical webbing would fail. Yet there have been a number of models that size that had D-tube wings with no spars at all. The D-tube spar is usually balsa. And as Dick is fond of saying, if the wing is thick enough..... So thickness is also a consideration. And if the wing is totally sheeted, that carries most of the load. But you still have to choose good sheeting wood for the job. And that's the bottom line. You have to pick the appropriate type for the job, and then the appropriate pieces of it.

The real point of this thread was really about this exact detail. And in fact, we can shed some more light on the subject by talking about spruce vs balsa and the suitability of the choice.
It's known that spruce and balsa can both be used for the same applications. Well, some applications anyway. Some builders say you can use balsa spars in place of spruce if you tripple the cross-section. That'll work for them when they have complete control. They know what spruce they've used in the past, and what balsa sticks to select for spars. So they make their rule work for them. Truth is, they know the rule isn't as simple as it sounds. And that for it to work, they have to have the right selection of balsa. They also know that balsa varies a lot more than spruce. And they know that basswood works pretty good too.......... chuckle....... it goes on and on and on, don't it.

You know, if the design project was for a biplane, there is a good probability that the spars SHOULD be balsa. There will be lots of them, and the interplane struts provide a huge assist to them. You'd have to consider your project is carrying the additional weight of those struts. You best make them decently functional to pay for their weight. And once that's done, you probably should recover some of the weight budget you spent on them if you can. And what better place to then save weight than in the parts that just benefitted? So either make the spruce spars smaller, or use balsa spars.



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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/17/2008 9:26:06 PM   
scratchonly


 

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I scratch built a SBC4 which is similar in appearance. It has a 64" top wing and weighs 10 lbs. I spent 6 months on the landing gear and 3 months on the plane (6 hour days, I'm retired); it flys well with a 90 Enya 4S. the main problem with the gear: when the full size retracts the gear the oleos are pulled closed as they retract which requires a lot of power, so I had to make them at the closed length. I don't know about the grumman but this is likely. You will have to develop an electrical system Which stops and reverses the gear in the down and up position. I did this with micro switches. My gear slides up on 2 music wires which are teepee shaped driven by a geared motor and fishing leader wound on a spindle and connected at both ends to the top of the gear. All of this is mounted on a 1/4 ply plate so you can get it working outside the plane and then slide it into that ugly opening, which on mine is open completely thru the fuse. This is not easy but it is agreat feeling to see them work when th plane is flying. Just some thoughts that may get you started. A photo won't help you because it is mostly hidden. Good luck, it can be done!

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/18/2008 12:24:52 AM   
Avaiojet


 

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My front spars will most likely be of balsa and measure 1/2" or 3/8" X 1/4" or 5/16", they will be over and under. I believe the hard balsa will work because I'll use webbing. I thought I mentioned this. The Gulfhawk is also a bi-plane.

I was going to use spruce on the rear single spar. Dead center vertically of the rib and located in the rib where the outter wing struts fasten. If needed, webbing can still be used in-between in the rear rib area, I just have to keep it below the rib thickness because of the fabric covering. The front spars will have 3/32 sheeting to the LE with a block LE sanded to shape.

BTW. I have done this before. Many times.

I've decided on aircraft grade aluminum for the gear. The struts will be cut by water jet. I'm building three sets of retracts. Possibly, if there's enough interest I could offer them?

I haven't made gear, commercially for models, since the 1/3 scale Gee Bee Z gear from the plans of Don Neill. This was 17 years ago and the Gee Bee Z gear was almost 400.00. I made three. I have one set for myself.

To attempt to produce retracts like these commercially would be cost prohibited.

Charles






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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/18/2008 1:53:51 AM   
pimmnz


 

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Just another thought, have you a construction drawing of the real plane? You might find that putting the spars and struts where the real one had them means that none of the ribs are taking any of the loads, and are there merely to streamline the spars. The struts will actually bolt to the spars between the ribs so now the ribs can be 1/16" balsa. The rear spar will look like the front one, ie an 'I' beam and the loads will be transmitted through to the fuselage truss through the centre section struts and the bracing wire pickups and strut fittings. I'll bet that barrel fuselage is hiding a square box fuselage truss with a light set of formers and lots of stringers. Like two fuselages in one, and now the fuselage stress structure can be 1/4 square balsa too. Think what each piece of wood actually does, and remember that if it isn't there, it can't fail and it won't weigh anything.
Evan, WB#12.

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/18/2008 4:00:34 AM   
Avaiojet


 

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pimmnz

Thank you for your response and great opservations.

Yes, I do plan on locating the spars in "line" laterally with the wing struts. I also plan on having plywood ribs at the attachment points, possibly angled exactly as the strut angle? This would assure alignment during assembly and allow for fewer glued parts for this purpose. The use of hidden blind nuts are essential.

Spruce spars would allow for a smaller size with greater strength than balsa . I'm guessing, but this sounds correct? This would allow for more "meat" on the ribs between the spars.

I'm checking my drawings and measurements, gathered over a 10 year period. An exact scale wheel would be 5.2". I'm thinking 5.5" for for a better ground roll and handling. Not really a noticleable difference.

Who makes the "absolute" best scale wheel for this model? The threads weren't diamond, they were oval. I want aluminum hubs and will need a smooth cap. So it doesn't matter what the hub looks like, it just has to except a smooth cap.

The Warbird guys probally have a handle on this.

Charles


< Message edited by Avaiojet -- 5/18/2008 4:14:01 AM >

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/18/2008 5:55:57 AM   
combatpigg



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Balsa spars don't have the same kind of "bend but don't break" attitude that spruce has. With even tough balsa what you get is a wing that looks just fine to the naked eye right up to the point that it explodes.
Hobby industry spruce isn't all that hot either, if you want the best you will need to buy slow growth stuff like what comes from Sitka Alaska.

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RE: Determining weight "before" the model is ... - 5/18/2008 6:50:26 AM   
pimmnz


 

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Aviojet, you missed the point, there won't be a rib where the strut meets the spar, there will be a fitting where the the strut end attaches, and it will be bolted to the spar, and the bracing wire will be likely attached to it too. Go to the YMF/UMF forum in the vintage section where there are zilloins of photos showing how it is done. A simple