makoman1860
Posts: 36
Joined: 5/16/2008 From: Oshkosh,
WI, USA Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: digital_trucker I'm not saying the rod is in tension, I'm saying that the small amount of play allows the piston to 'float' slightly at TDC. Then when the power stroke comes along SLAP. Each one slightly increasing the play until you either reset the ball or the rod bashes through the top of the piston. Overcompression hurries it along a bit, as I found out. If you happen to have a piston that isn't quite up to snuff in the temper department it'll happen quicker too. It may only happen a microsopic amount with the ball properly set, but it WILL happen. Remember that the piston comes to a complete STOP at TDC, but the propeller and crankshaft (and thus the conrod) keep right on a-goin'. Ok so you have a piston coming up againt compression, slowing down before TDC, ignition starts before TDC, cylinder pressure rises faster then compression pressure before TDC, Crank crosses TDC while cylinder pressure rises, piston slowly accelerates as cylinder pressure tops off about 45 degrees after TDC, piston start slowing down 90 degrees after TDC. Ok heres something to check, measure the distance from piston crown to bottom of big end of the rod on a new piston, tighten it up, run the engine, now remeasure. When I did that to mine, I fould ALL of the slop was from compression wear, none from tension. Now if your engines 4 cycling thats a whole different story as you have an off cycle. Ahh this is getting way off topic isnt it The short of the story is, the sure start engines I am testing are wearing in compression only, not a cyclic pounding. The material does seem soft on the pistons, especially when compared to my older engines. You know Mccoy used to use a retaining clip to hold the piston ball in, and not a crimp? and funny thing is I never see any wear on that little retaining clip on those designs. So now I have a failure mode, what can be done to fix it?
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