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Aerobird guts - 5/9/2003 10:41:27 AM   
Fausto


 

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Joined: 5/9/2003
From: Long Beach, CA,
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I've just about destroyed my Aerobird after an encounter with some high power lines and some river rocks. I am wondering if anyone could suggest a use for the radio, motor, servos etc. with another plane. I would rather not rebuild the Aerobird and am ready to move onto something else. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

< Message edited by Fausto -- May 9 2003 2:19PM >
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Aerobird guts - 5/9/2003 11:28:53 PM   
YZ-212


 

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Joined: 4/29/2003
From: Tucson, AZ
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I'm in the same boat with ya. I'd be interested to find other uses for the guts. I kinda doubt there use full though unless your handy at building a plane from scratch. One thought of mine was to make a simple plane from faom or similar. Here are some links to check out to give you some ideas.




http://mypage.yhti.net/~dmcdnld/pizzabox.htm

http://www.backyardflyer.com/articles/plans/flying_sign.asp

(in reply to Fausto)
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Aerobird guts - 5/20/2003 8:07:14 PM   
larryflew


 

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From: Young America, MN, USA
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Not going to ask how high power lines and river rocks got into the same crash sequence . In most cases there is no other use for your radio gear because it is basically set up just for the simple aerobird type plane. If your looking at planes beyond that now is a good time to get the radio that you can grow with. Enjoy the new hobby guys!

(in reply to Fausto)
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Aerobird guts - 6/15/2003 4:25:15 AM   
aeajr



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Joined: 1/14/2003
From: Long Island, NY, USA
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The motor in the Aerobird is a standard speed 380 which can be used in other planes. Other than that, while you could move the electronics, they are really made specifically for that plane.

Yuu know you can buy a whole new fuselage for about $45 including the motor and the electronics.

If you want to try and repair it here are some tips:

I have been flying my bird for three months and 50+ flights and just love the plane. I have pounded the plane into the ground, destroyed three wings, and a tail. I had to build a new motor mount because I destroyed that too. All this, and the plane flies great, but it has taken a real beating. That is what makes it such a great three channel trainer.

Along the way I have had to solve many problems brecause I was so reckless with it while I was learning to fly it. So, I pass on what I have learned.


First - RTFM

If you lost your manual, you can download it here:

http://www.hobbyzonesports.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=HBZ6000#

Motor Mount

This is the first thing you should do. Before you take a hard nose hit, reinforce the motor mount. I will not elaborate here, visit this thread to find the information. It contains advice from other pilots and what I finally did to reinforce the mount. You should do this before you need it.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=922187#post922187


Plane Does Not Fly Straight

Assuming you have not displaced the motor (see above), and you are having problems with the plane turning to one side, check the following:

a) is the wing crooked or too damaged - try a new wing.

b) Check the trim adjustments. They may have been moved from center. Set
them to center and make all adjustments assuming you will fly with the trim
set in the center.

c) Check the tail. The foam is attached to the center plastic brace by small pieces that punch through the foam. This can loosen up and the tail fin can move slightly away from the plastic brace. On the ground you might not notice it, but in the air the pressure can move this around causing the plane to turn to one side or the other. Tape or glue the tail fins to the center
plastic brace. Also, look for creases in the foam. If there is a weak spot, it will cause the tail to flex causing the plane to turn. mine was creased at the meeting point where the plastic support meets the tail, so did not see it. Looked fine on the
ground, but it was flexing in the air causing a hard right turn leading to crashes. I replaced the tail.

d) Make sure the moveable surfaces are even with the fixed surfaces on the tail when the stick is centered and the trim levers are centered. You MUST check this with the transmitter on and the battery attached. If they are not even, adjust them with the screws on the control horns. If they are not even when the stick is centered, then the plane will not fly right, ever. The
procedure is in the manual. RTFM

Note, there is a tiny phillips head screw on the back of the control horn on the tail. Tighten it or the spool could unwind while the plane is in the air, causing a crash. (Guess how I know this!)

e) If none of the above are not a problem, then check to see that the boom is
solidly attached at the body of the plane. If this comes loose, it can move
around while the plane is flying causing all kinds of problems. It can also
twist so that the tail is no longer aligned. This links shows you how one
person
secured the boom on their plane using screws. One concern with this technique
is that the threads of the screw could abraid the control lines or the
receiver antenna. This might not be the best approach

http://rclibrary.com/viewtopic.php?p=34#34

If you look at where the boom is attached inside there is a pinced area. I
drilled a small hole through the top of that area and through the boom. Then
I put a 4" nylon tie thorugh to help secure the boom. I also put packing tape
around the boom and the back of the body where the boom exits. Between the
two, the boom is well secured.

( note that item e above has been changed as there was an error in the original post. )


The Porpoise

When you apply power the plane starts to climb then noses up, then the nose drops and it does it all over again. The problem is that the tail needs to be trimmed. There are two screws on the tail. The procedure is in your instruction book. RTFM


Center of Gravity

If you are using a 7 cell battery, you will get a faster plane and better climb. However you will also shift the center of gravity forward slightly. Not enough that the plane won't fly, but enough that it will seem to be nose heavy. If you are an aggressive, full throttle flyer, you probably won't notice. If you are more of a half throttle cruiser, like me, you will find the plane needs up trim all the time. Here is how you fix it.

The foam that sits between the battery and ahead of the electronics puts the 6 cell exactly where it needs to be to balance the plane, but the 7 cell is heavier. Remove the side pins and pull the foam out. Now, cut it from top to bottom about half way in, just in front of where the pins that hold it in-place enter the foam from the side. Now put the remaining piece back in the plane. When you fly the 6 cell, put the moveable piece behind the battery in its normal place. If you are flying the 7 cell, put the moveable piece forward of the battery. This will shift it back 1/2 inch and put the CG right where it should be. The plane will fly better at all speeds and will launch much better as well.

Reinforce the Wing

Got to staples and get some glass reinforced tape. The 3M type that has a cross pattern is best. I think it is called extreme strength tape. Put a piece on either side of trailing edge where the prop wants to bite the wing if a landing is a little rough. Make sure you have a spare prop. Since the prop is less likely to cut the wing, if it hits the wing, it might pop the prop
off, or break it. However normally this does not happen.

I also reinforce the front of the wing with the same tape where the rubber bands come across the wing. This will help reduce denting.


Learn to Dead Stick Land

If you run the battery too long, the speed control will cut the power to the motor while preserving power for the control surfaces. If you learn to land with the power off all the time, then if you get caught in the air with no motor, you will have no problem landing. Dead stick is my standard way of landing. If I am 250 feet up and want to land, I just set the plane into a
landing direction then cut the power and glide it down. Also, since I fly on a grass field, I never use the landing gear. I just slide it into the grass.


Parts

These planes have a great distribution system. Parts are very readily found in most hobby stores. However if you can't get what you need, look here:
http://www.hobbyzonesports.com/Support/


HobbyZoneSports Frequently Asked Questions - Couldn't hurt to look!

http://www.hobbyzonesports.com/Support/FAQ.aspx


Summary

So, that is the sum total of what I know about getting a great plane through the phase where we pound it into the ground trying to learn to fly. Don't give up! Avoid the wind, take your time and you will get it! Oh, and RTFM ..... read the friendly manual!!!! :-)

< Message edited by AEAJR -- Jun 25 2003 1:38AM >


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(in reply to Fausto)
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Aerobird guts - 6/25/2003 2:21:43 AM   
daddy/ben



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From: NV
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try a firebird XL,much better plane.

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Aerobird guts - 6/25/2003 6:39:51 AM   
aeajr



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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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the XL is a great little intro plane, but it can not touch the Aerobird for capabilities. Essentially the Aerobird is a an XL with a third channel added which allows it to do things the XL can't do.

Also, the single stick control system is much more standard than the two stick system on the XL, so you can move on to other planes much more easily.

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What Next - apres Aerobird - 6/25/2003 8:14:55 PM   
sierra gold


 

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From: Foresthill, CA, USA
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The major drawback to the Aerobird (and other "look alikes" is the non-standard, hardly reuseable radio gear.

Once you establish an interest in RC, then bit the bullet and get a re-useable radio. One can get a Hitec 3 channel with 555 receiver and 2 HS81 servos for $110.
I have always had a use for my 3 channel, even when I eventually bought a 5 channel.

There are GWS planes available for $35-50 including motor. I like the Slow Stick and it's the $35 plane.

Just some thoughts.

Sierra Gold

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Aerobird guts - 6/26/2003 6:52:36 AM   
aeajr



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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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I went from the Aerobird to a Hitec Prism 7X radio. Building an Electrajet now and have a Great Planes Spirit 2 meter sailplane on its way.

The Aerobird was exactly the right first plane for me. And I would not want to take it out of service so I don't care if the radio gear can't be moved. You would pay $110 for a three channel radio and add $40 for a plane kit. Add add two batteries and a peak charger and you are in the $250 range.

Nothing wrong with that, but I like my path better.

You can get an Aerobird complete with two batteries for $150-$170 and it is as tough as a plane can get, short of a Zaggi.

Right plane for me!

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Aerobird guts - 7/3/2003 6:40:23 PM   
aeajr



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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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For anyone interested, here is the control board from an Aerobird. I don't see any reason why you could not take this out of the Aerobird and put it in another v-tail plane. I have no reason to do this as my Aerobird would not fly any more, but someone might.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


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Clear Skies and Safe Flying!
Ed Anderson
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       Post #: 9

Aerobird guts - 7/3/2003 6:41:33 PM   
aeajr



Posts: 5519
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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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Here is another shot with the motor out as well.

Attachments
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Click for fullsize


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Ed Anderson
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       Post #: 10

Aerobird guts - 7/3/2003 6:42:16 PM   
aeajr



Posts: 5519
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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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One more with servos facing down:

Attachments
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       Post #: 11

Aerobird guts - 7/3/2003 6:48:55 PM   
aeajr



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From: Long Island, NY, USA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by YZ-212
I'm in the same boat with ya. I'd be interested to find other uses for the guts. I kinda doubt there use full though unless your handy at building a plane from scratch. One thought of mine was to make a simple plane from faom or similar. Here are some links to check out to give you some ideas.
[/url]
[/QUOTE]

If you want to reuse the Aerobird guts, think of the physcal layout and what the board was built to do.

Since V-tail mixing is built in and the board is fairly flat, this might go well in a delta wing where you use elevons for control. Maybe something they make from that blue or pink building foam. Something like a zagi fixx type design.

If I ever wreck the Aerobird to the point where I can't fix it and the electronics are still good, I might try that.

How about all you smart building types. Could be big money in a plane that can use the guts our of an Aerobird. Heaven knows they are selling enough of them.

Let's see who can build one first. Not me, I am no builder. I haven't even started my first ARF, an Electrajet. No time.

_____________________________

Clear Skies and Safe Flying!
Ed Anderson
Moderator
Park Pilot Program Partner

(in reply to Fausto)
       Post #: 12

Aerobird guts - 7/12/2003 5:43:37 PM   
eflyer2


 

Posts: 120
Joined: 6/22/2003
From: southern MA.USA
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If you realy need to drive yourself nuts over not throwing away a piece of junk that used to be a fun plane then use a couple of pop bottles for pontoons and tie the stearing servo to a rudder and turn the darn thing into a BOAT, that pusher Prop will make it pretty fast. Have fun!

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Eflyer

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Aerobird guts - 7/12/2003 5:52:14 PM   
eflyer2


 

Posts: 120
Joined: 6/22/2003
From: southern MA.USA
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Or, Buy a new fuse that includes the motor, elect, and servo. Better yet do what Searea Gold suggested and make the transition to standard radio control airplanes and electronics gear, then you can mix and match or plug and play pretty much as you please.

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Eflyer

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