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first crash 400 - 6/8/2008 12:28:33 AM   
clamman


 

Posts: 46
Joined: 1/11/2008
From: bayville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		hi i just had my first crash bent flybar, feathering shaft i just wanted to know if there were any tricks or tips for changing flybar? i know about the feathering shaft tip allready and is there any other tips for fixing everything thanks in advance


jack

< Message edited by clamman -- 6/8/2008 12:47:48 AM >
       Post #: 1

RE: first crash - 6/8/2008 12:34:26 AM   
msdtyu


 

Posts: 61
Joined: 12/29/2005
From: north bay, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		are reffering to the cx2 or the cp if its the cx2 dont bother to get a stock replacement (unless thats all they have at your lhs) just get an aluminum one because it wont break.

(in reply to clamman)
       Post #: 2

RE: first crash 400 - 6/8/2008 12:48:18 AM   
clamman


 

Posts: 46
Joined: 1/11/2008
From: bayville, NY, USA
Status: offline 		sorry i was talking about 400

(in reply to msdtyu)
       Post #: 3

RE: first crash 400 - 6/8/2008 3:48:25 AM   
rotarydoc


 

Posts: 1770
Joined: 3/17/2008
From: Laurel, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Jack,

It's pretty straightforward, no special notes that I can think of other than watch the little tiny brass washers, they are easy to lose, and are pretty difficult to handle. Some of the guys say they just push the old flybar out with the new one, following it very closely. I have not tried this, so can't say if it works. I don't imagine it would work very well on a badly bent flybar, though.

Just for your info, the stepped side of the little brass washers face the bearings...it took me a while to figure that one out!

Good luck, and have fun rebuilding...that IS half the fun, right?? LOL

Glenn

_____________________________

B400/B400/MCX/MCX/Hirobo Quark SRB/Hirobo XRB/CX2/CP Pro/Gaui 200 SE/Align T-Rex 500 ESP....and BROKE!

(in reply to clamman)
       Post #: 4

RE: first crash 400 - 6/8/2008 5:03:02 AM   
JPEE



Posts: 486
Joined: 3/14/2008
From: Porter Ranch in Southern Calif, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Jack,

Like Doc says, some people try that push through but I have not been able to do that. I cut off anything thats bent on each side of the head. Then I remove the two screws on one side of the flybar paddle control frame arm PART REFERENCE NUMBER 005 in your book. Then I start sliding out whats left of the flybar of course after loosening all related screws. Like Doc says don't loose those brass washers! Once you have everything apart then you can with ease start pushing the new flybar back in from the still intact paddle frame arm side, slip the brass washer on then through the head, slip on the second washer (noting the face like doc said). Then you slip back on and screw on the side of paddle bar frame you had taken off and your nearly there. Note the flat spots on the bar. They must be set correctly s o the Allen screws that come through the flybar frame sit right on those flat spots! What I do is get it as close as I can. Then I start tightening down "one" screw slowly and feeling the bar at all times to make sure you hit the flat spot. Once that is done your ready to tighten the second screw and then reinstall your paddles. I used loc-tite on the those puppies. Then I use an outside caliper and to be sure the paddles themselves are the same distance from the control frame so as to keep everything balanced. Just be careful when you screw on those paddles as they will pass their internal stops and the flybar will come out through the white plastic!!!

Hope this helps, Good Luck

JPee

_____________________________

MCX, CX 2, Blade 400s, #401, #402, Trojan T-28,
T-Rex 500 ESP

(in reply to rotarydoc)
       Post #: 5

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