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2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 12:08:27 AM   
Accident42


 

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this is what happens when you don't think it all through. the above destruction is from the bowels of a Force .28 pull start in an ofna LX1. a result of the fuel, the lack of accurate temperature readings, and obscenely high RPMs.


to all of those using the Byron's second generation of race nitro fuel; YOUR CAR WILL RUN COLD! do not try to warm it up to what the engine ran at with other fuels. you will just keep leaning it until the above happens.

now, this is not intended to steer people away from the stuff, it actually does what is advertised. after i repair my motor i intend to keep using the same batch of fuel, i'm just going to be a bit more careful about how open that throttle is.
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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 12:30:10 AM   
jaywax



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I run Byrons Gen2 25% and I totally agree with your post. The fuel does actually what is stated on their website. It allows you to run leaner settings with cooler temps. You must resist the temptation to go over the edge. This is the exact reason I tune by performance and trail of smoke only. Ocassionaly I will put a drop of water on the head to ensure that I not running at some extreme temps, but that is it. I hope you stick with the fuel because it is awesome.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 12:38:45 AM   
JB COMP



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You can always wrap the head with alum. foil to bring temps up.

I heard that Byrons measures the nitro and oil by weight and not volume. So there's less nitro and oil then what's stated, but again that's just what I heard.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 1:53:58 PM   
slayerphonics



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How old was that motor?
less then a gallon?

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 7:33:49 PM   
Accident42


 

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it was the 8th tank of fuel.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 7:42:20 PM   
JB COMP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Accident42

it was the 8th tank of fuel.


What where you doing leaning it out and running high rpms on the 8th tank?

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 8:18:47 PM   
slayerphonics



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Accident42

it was the 8th tank of fuel.


I figured,

Almost all the rod failures i've experinced or seen happen in the first gallon,

I wouldn't blame the fuel, you just made a mistake.

I did the same thing on a Mach, was on tank 6 or 7. exact same damage as your rod. I was just doing WOT for to long to soon in the engines life.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/17/2008 9:23:30 PM   
jaywax



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Accident42

it was the 8th tank of fuel.


My bad. I thought this was an engine that was already broken in. The fuel had nothing to do with the damage, it was pure owner error. Do not feel bad, it happens to most people who just entered into nitro.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/18/2008 4:35:32 AM   
downunder



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OK, I'll take a punt here and say it had nothing to do with temperatures or seizing the piston because there's no evidence that the piston seized. I'd say the rod seized to the crankpin from lack of oil. Note how the rod is twisted around before it broke. Byron mix fuel by weight so the advertised oil content is less than when fuels are mixed by volume. I'd be adding some castor to any Byron fuel. Castor is the ideal oil for plain bearings like on a rod.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/18/2008 5:31:57 AM   
jaywax



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quote:

ORIGINAL: downunder

OK, I'll take a punt here and say it had nothing to do with temperatures or seizing the piston because there's no evidence that the piston seized. I'd say the rod seized to the crankpin from lack of oil. Note how the rod is twisted around before it broke. Byron mix fuel by weight so the advertised oil content is less than when fuels are mixed by volume. I'd be adding some castor to any Byron fuel. Castor is the ideal oil for plain bearings like on a rod.


I would probably agree with you if this was some unknown manufacturers fuel, but it is not. Byrons is well established and is a proven winner. It was from either owner error or defective engine.


< Message edited by jaywax -- 6/18/2008 5:32:25 AM >


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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/18/2008 2:16:03 PM   
JB COMP



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jaywax

quote:

ORIGINAL: downunder

OK, I'll take a punt here and say it had nothing to do with temperatures or seizing the piston because there's no evidence that the piston seized. I'd say the rod seized to the crankpin from lack of oil. Note how the rod is twisted around before it broke. Byron mix fuel by weight so the advertised oil content is less than when fuels are mixed by volume. I'd be adding some castor to any Byron fuel. Castor is the ideal oil for plain bearings like on a rod.


I would probably agree with you if this was some unknown manufacturers fuel, but it is not. Byrons is well established and is a proven winner. It was from either owner error or defective engine.



I think fuelman said that to about the Byrons. (could be wrong though)

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/19/2008 1:41:34 AM   
j_blaze



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i have ran the byrons too, awesome fuel and great temps. 20 degrees less is very common. however i did find 1 fuel better, by mistake. it actually runs cooler and leaner than gen 2 and maybe a bit faster (visually, no radar gun or anything). Maxy's 30% race blend is about 1/2 turn leaner and about 10 cooler than the byrons. i tune to performance and lean the HSN so the motor hits max rpm about mid-straight, LSN should have no bog after about 5 seconds of idle, thats race tuned. so far i've driven trinity 30%, sidewinder 30%, odonnell 30%, byrons gen2 30% and now the maxy's ad it has been the best, so far. i'm starting gallon 2 this weekend in ft lauderdale, florida rc pro race.

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/19/2008 8:37:42 AM   
ecocav04


 

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my friends did that on the 4th tank of fuel some of them have bad rods and byrons includes a warnign label on there gallons of fuel telling you it runs alot colder then the original byrons

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RE: 2nd Generation Byrons - 6/19/2008 6:05:33 PM   
Accident42


 

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Sorry if i sound like i am blaming the fuel for my mistakes. i'm not. i am completely fine with claiming responsibility for this.

actually, i'm a tad proud

the rod isn't twisted at all fyi; just an optical illusion. it is bent all to hell, but still "straight" if you catch my meaning.


any advice on how i can keep the motor from getting so far passed red line next time around? i'm pretty new to the hobby (as you may have noticed) and i am ignorant as to what technology/techniques is/are available.



p.s. if the plain bearings prefer castor, then what kind of bearings prefer the synthetics in byrons?

< Message edited by Accident42 -- 6/19/2008 6:07:21 PM >

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