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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 8/23/2008 10:23 PM   
saddler



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From: Celina, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Went to check the CG on mine today. It is going to take 9 ounces of lead in the nose to make it balance at the recommended CG location! That is with 2 1100mah nicads in the nose gear well as far forward as they will go. I have a Wren Supersport installed. Would hate to think what would be required if you had a heavier engine installed!



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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 8/24/2008 12:20 PM   
Hawkflyer


 

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Status: offline 		Makes you wonder why when they redesigned the intro they didnt just make the nose an inch or two longer so you could get the weight further forward.
Hawkflyer

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 8/26/2008 3:44 PM   
ltdorn1



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From: Sierra Vista , AZ, USA
Status: offline 		i just threw mine on the cg machine....

Not going to need any weight on the nose. I have a nice lightweight Super bee that helps me out. I have it far forward. Looks like i will have to move one of my batts back so i am not too nose heavy.

i will shoot up a couple of pic of my set up when i get home..

EDIT: added the pics. Still need to clean up a bit. Both the 2700 Mah 5cell back and 2 cell LI-ION pack in the battery compartment up front. Fuel pump also right up front under the retract valve. With this layout its slightly nose heavy as measured 250mm from the trailing edge of wing per manual.

EDIT 2: Ok i have 5 flights on mine. Empty weight w/o fuel. 16lbs 10 oz. (No lead added anywhere) That is about 1.5 lbs heavier than my intro, BUT the changes were: I used Robart 630 gear and big 3" wheels with air brakes vice my smaller Robart air up spring down and one kelvan electric on the nose wheel, using a smaller 50oz tank vice the 88 oz jet tech tank, and finally used BVM ceramic paint in tail vice aluminum tape for heat shielding ( and I am sure the fuse gets hotter with ceramic paint than it did with alum tape...hum).

Things to do:
1. Make sure you completely heat gun and re-iron all the covering and will wrinkle right up in the sun. Do not glue on the canopy for sure w/o heatup and iron. Just set the model in the sun at home before going to the flying field to check it first. Once done, looks fine.
2. Make sure the horizontal stab does freely sit on top of the rudders. I had to open the front of the holes a bit to get it to sit flat on top of the rudders.
3. check the bolt holes for the horizontal stab to the rudders , 3 of 4 lined up one was a little off and had to elongate the hole. (make sure the bolt head still has a lip to rest on). Then thin CA all 4 holes to harden them up. My kit didn't come with the stickers that the bolts rest on like shown in the manual. Not sure why the design was changed from the intro as it was perfect with the small fiberglass washers that the hold down bolts rested on. Plus these smaller bolts have a finer thread and i don't like it....Oh the reason I found that mine wasn't flat was on the first flight had to use way too much down trim and i figure something had to be not lined up correctly. My fault for assuming it would be perfect like the intro.
4. Don't use more throw than in the book. I did (24mm up /20 mm down) on ail. with 30% expo... flew a little twitchy. D/R down to suggested values, flew much better.
5. Still haven't see any other flight reports on best CG location. Mine at 250mm from trailing edge with no fuel in main tank (header fuel and in stock location, gear down). Now i have about 1/8 inch down trim for straight and level flight. Will do some of the in flight trim test today and see when i need to do. incidence changes of CG change.

Overall:
1. Still fly's pretty slow if you want, landings still nice and pretty! Cant say its faster as i am using the same engine i have in my intro. (14.5# Bee) I am flying at a tad bit more throttle to maintain the visual speed i was used to in the into but hey i am 1.5lbs heavier so its expected.
2. I don't like the new alum rods that hold the wing in. Its awkward to remove the wings and try and keep the booms from wackin the table. Guess i could put a towel in under the booms. I liked the old method on the intro! very cool. I can only assume the plastic was wearing out on some models. Or maybe because it designed for much larger engines and the "Extra Spar strength" comes from the Alum rods.
3. The Black and yellow scheme is cool, BUT hard to see top and bottom as distance, make sure you keep orientation all the time. Not a high color contrast at distance. I might be adding big black strips on the bottom of mine to help. If you have any vision problems, DONT get the black and yellow on even though it does look cool if you have vision color problems.
4. Mine didn't come with the extra covering like my intro did, but i got one of the first runs, so i would assume the little details would be corrected in later batch runs.
5. cant wait to try with a Jet central Rabbit (19#) in it. Still fly's fine with my super bee. Still very forgiving during flight like the intro.
6. wish it was composite construction. This wood gets dented TOOOO easy.
5. Overall, thumbs up, gear up.

oh yea.... where is my Navy stickers? I am Navy guy and cant put this Air Force crud on my plane!

Lawrence "LawDog" Dorn
LCDR USN

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< Message edited by ltdorn1 -- 9/8/2008 6:20 PM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 8/31/2008 10:54 PM   
ltdorn1



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From: Sierra Vista , AZ, USA
Status: offline 		couple of action shots at our local field.
Salinas Area Modelers in salinas Cali.



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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/1/2008 3:09 AM   
phjoker



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From: Vernon, NJ, USA
Status: online 		Congrats on the Maiden. Glad everything went well, and thanks for all the good advise. I am also thinking
the rabbit or even the falcon not sure yet. One thing I did was picked up four 1/4" X4" long bolts once the wing comes
off I put the bolts where the alum rods went.. helps hold the boom from swinging around in a circle and the bolt will not fall
through the boom.
I had to put mine on hold for awhile some things came up and money just got tight. Ordered the gas tank from
patrica and thats all for now. Still need retracts and turbine ...everything else is done.

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/1/2008 5:29 AM   
ltdorn1



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From: Sierra Vista , AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Sorry to hear yours is on hold....

I want the rabbit as its only a tiny bit bigger than the bee.
roger on the bolts.

Now... i need to get my pilot.... my canopy looks to empty...lol

Lawrence


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/1/2008 11:05 AM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		A few answers;-

The spare covering has been left out of some of the kits. We have all colours so contact Patricia in Dallas or Alan in the UK if you need it, specify which colours and we'll send you the missed covering.

Regarding the field assembly of the booms to the centre wing before the outer wings are mounted, a quick and easy solution is to add a small 1/4" dowel through the booms to hold their position. Takes about ten minutes to do, using the alloy rods to hold the incidence right as you drill. See the photos. This point will be addressed in future production kits.
If you plan to leave the booms and tail permanently mounted, then you could add some long nylon bolts fixing the booms to the centre wing.

As for the CG, easiest way to check it is by lifting the model by the Carbon fibre mainspar before adding the outer wings. (Dry, wheels down). It should stay level or just drop the nose. If the tail drops, add a little noseweight.




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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/1/2008 3:51 PM   
ltdorn1



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info Alan. Oh yea, the last page on the manual has 255mm listed as CG and the picture on the second to last page says 250mm....

4 more flight today... i decided to keep the CG at 250mm from training edge. No bad habits at that spot. only a little down elevator needed and the no power straight down vertical test showed no significant pulling out or tucking in. Banked turn test looked good too...

I used this.....

http://www.nsrca.org/trimA.htm


Lawrence


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/1/2008 11:04 PM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Some very good shots came in of R/C Gypsy's maiden Sprint flights. P70 power. With Paul's permission, here's his sport version in action.

[image][/image]

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/16/2008 2:26 AM   
ltdorn1



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From: Sierra Vista , AZ, USA
Status: offline 		I had a request for a couple of shots of my nose gear setup..... zip tie holds open the pull pull cables when the nose is retracted to keep from tangling up..... not my idea, i saw it used before on the RCU.



oh, i finally got my pilot installed... Dreamworks 1/7 scale guy i had to cut down a little. seat back is made of balsa.

Lawrence





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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/27/2008 12:06 PM   
iiievolution



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From: Larnaca, CYPRUS
Status: offline 		Hello

Have you guys used the supplied horns ( 3mm x 50mm screws ) on the control surfaces or have you gone for something else?

Thanks
Paul

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/27/2008 9:22 PM   
ltdorn1



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From: Sierra Vista , AZ, USA
Status: offline 		I used stock on everything except elevator.... i went with a metal one from sullivan

http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=SULQ3254&P=1


If i was to do it again... i would use the cool top surface flush ones like the central hobbies ones.

Lawrence


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/28/2008 12:07 AM   
Mace



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Status: online 		Do any of you have problems with heat on the bottom of the elevator / stab? I noticed mine getting kinda hot on the Sprint while doing taxi tests today.

MACE

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/28/2008 1:19 AM   
iiievolution



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quote:

ORIGINAL: ltdorn1


If i was to do it again... i would use the cool top surface flush ones like the central hobbies ones.




Hi Lawrence

Which ones do you mean here?

Thanks
Paul

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/28/2008 6:28 AM   
ltdorn1



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Status: offline 		http://www.centralhobbies.com/control_linkage/control_horns/mkd.html

or

http://www.centralhobbies.com/control_linkage/control_horns/imp.html

http://www.centralhobbies.com/buildingtips/mkhorns/mkhornsinst.html


The stock one work just fine, but i saw some nice pretty flush ones at the fresno jet fly on some of the other non boomer jets...
I saw some that were perfectly flat too but i dont know were you get them....


Lawrence


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/28/2008 9:28 PM   
Turbinac


 

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First look at some Sprint flying by Ali.........;- youtube.com


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/29/2008 4:25 PM   
ViperOneNL


 

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From: lel, NETHERLANDS
Status: offline 		Hi there,

First and Second Sprint flight yesterday, I also flew an Intro, both on the same P70. Result very good!

The sprint feels more balanced in the air than the intro, I guess it has to do with the bigger STAB area of the sprint. I agree about the cumbersome plugging of the wings and keeping the booms from dropping, so I am going to implement Alan's solution Why did I not think of this ........

Two things I DONT like about the Sprint:

The balsa used for the sides/bottom and the booms is thinner than on the Intro, I think this is done to save weight, but I think they are very flimsy now (also the sheeting of the wing is to thin/soft, you can flex the wing's skin.

Second thing is worse, my Right boom has a small mis alignment between the carbon spare hole and the aluminium rod holes, result lots of friction to insert or remove the wing tips! if I insert the wingtips and boom without the spar, I can see that the mis alignment is about 3/4 mm not to bad but anoying, this results in the right boom being a bit higher than the left boom.

Both things do not impact the flying, but are a bit annoying

Cheers,

Mick


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 9/30/2008 3:49 AM   
cpierre82


 

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From: Weddington , NC, USA
Status: offline 		Anybody flying the Sprint with a 22 lbs thrust turbine?

Thanks,
Charles

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/5/2008 2:02 PM   
petera38


 

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From: Smedjebacken, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		I have noticed - earlier in this thread - someone asking about the fueltank?

As I´m considering investing in a Sprint I´m curious as well - What kind of fueltank are you using Volcan?

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/5/2008 2:53 PM   
iiievolution



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Status: offline 		There is a purpose made sullivan fuel tank that includes some of the fittings. It is available from Als Hobbies, for about 70 euros. I think its about 3.2 litres or around there.

Paul

< Message edited by iiievolution -- 10/5/2008 5:19 PM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/5/2008 3:10 PM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Our Boomerang fuel tank is custom made by Sullivan to fit the Boomerang Elan and the Sprint and will also fit the XL with minor work to a bulkhead in the fuselage. It comes with Kero fittings included.

It is actually 3.7 litres, or 127 ounces in USA measurement.

In reply to cpierre82 the demo Sprint (seen in the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv1j2u5NTqc )is using a Graupner Booster 80 which puts out close to 22 lbs. Flies great!! I designed it for any turbine between 14 and 22 lbs.


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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/9/2008 12:52 PM   
Meesh



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Status: offline 		It's a real shame that they didn't do something about the way the hatch is mounted to the fuse. Those pins going into the keyholes in the very thin (read: weak) plywood on the Hatch were a major cause of pain on my Baby Boomrang. I wouldn't buy one of these because of that feature. Alan has a real winner with the design of the hatch mounting system on the Elan. This method on the Sprint is definitely a step backwards.

Bob

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/9/2008 2:30 PM   
chcarlos


 

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Status: offline 		Couple of questions:
If you had to do it again, would you use the ceramic paint or aluminum tape for heat shielding?

Looks like the turbine mounting block was extended for the Rabbit. The mounts are too wide for my P-60. Any pointers on how to extend?

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/9/2008 3:00 PM   
Meesh



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Status: offline 		Mount the turbine in the engine mount so that the mounting tabs are above the centerline of the Turbine. Then measure how much you have to raise the turbine to bring it up to the centerline. Make some plywood spacers the correct thickness to raise the Turbine. Make them wide enough so you can bolt them to the mounts in the fuselage then bolt the turbine to the spacers.

Bob

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/9/2008 3:23 PM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Meesh,
If you have a close look you'll see that I doubled up the ply thickness where the hatch retaining pins go through!
I tried various fitting methods before deciding and this is still the simplest and best as far as I'm concerned!

Regards,
Alan.


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