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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/26/2008 5:00 AM   
Doc...


 

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From: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Meesh,
I to am having a problem with the latch. Mine doesn't seal properly. Alan did double up where the pins go but the back moves up and down
as much as 2-3 mm. If I had my way, another hatch pin on both sides near the back would do the trick. Any ideas on ho how to tighten it up?
Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/27/2008 1:24 AM   
iiievolution



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From: Larnaca, CYPRUS
Status: offline 		Hi guys

Just a word of caution here. The plywood mounts for the rudder servo covers are not glued very well to the boom structure. This is only on the bottom part of the former as the other sides are interlocked with the internal plywood structure. When I went to make the holes for the servo cover screws, by applying very light pressure for the drill the former released immeditely from the boom skin. This was the case for both booms.

I made up some supports with hardwood and glued them using Hysol, as seen in the picture below.

I think that this is important because the aerodynamic loads on the rudder are eventually tranferred here. I am sure that Alan will rectify this if this is not an isolated case, as the rest of the kit is really fantastic and very well engineered and thought out.

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/27/2008 10:32 PM   
R/C Gypsy



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Status: offline 		Hi Guys,

I see Doc and meesh both had some doubts about the canopy latch, as did I...........this picture shows my solution.

The canpoy top had a slight twist, no fault of Alan's, its not unusual for this to hapen in a lightly framed sheeted balsa structure.
of course it tried to twist up on the latch side.

I added a BVM canopy hook and the receiver slot to the latch side of the top......as the canopy slides forward on the pins......... the latch locks the canopy down tight.

If you look at my latch pin you'll notice I outlined it with a white peice of plastic and cut a notch in the bottom that holds it down..........this allows both hands free to allign the canopy top when sliding it in place....but be sure you remember to latch before flight ....it's the last item on my check list.

Paul

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< Message edited by R/C Gypsy -- 10/27/2008 11:39 PM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/28/2008 5:39 AM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Paul,
Nice job. I agree this is not Alan's fault, as a matter of fact, that's exactly what the problem was, slightly warped. I was going to use the BVM hook but deceided to add 2 more hatch latches towards the rear which I designed similar to the ones already installed. The actual pin is adjustable which makes it nice since there is a difference on both sides. It should be finished by this Wednesday, time permitting, and will post the final pictures.
Thanks for your insight,
Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 4:11 AM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		Before anyone says "it is already discussed in this thread", I know, I've read it all.

But I have just now started on my Sprint (I have had the kit since the first ones were delivered in the USA) and I am loosing my nerve about these CA hinges. I typically do not use CA hinges. Certainly not on a turbine airframe. I am a fan of the large Robart hinge points. But I want to use these CA thingies to speed up the glacial pace of my build (if you can call it a build, more of a molecular assembly process).

How do you guys do it? I assume you put both halves together, dry, then wet the holy cr_p out of the hinge, both sides, with thin CA, right? Has anyone had issues with these? Any known failures on a Sprint? Are most of you using/trusting these CA abberations? PLEASE tell me sweet nothings about them as I am scared, VERY scared!!! If I use them, I intend to pull the be-Jesus out of them before trusting them to flight.

I like the clevises and control horns supplied by Allan, they are stout. But any issues of the elevator clevis having heat issues? (I can not remember, all of these R/C U threads are melding together in my aging brain)

Thanks Boomer Pilots!!!

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 4:39 AM   
Mace



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Status: offline 		Fellas,

Here are some pictures of the rudder servo cut out and the 1/8th ply I added to the bottom of the boom inside. The piece is 1 inch wide up front and 1 and 1/32 inches at the rear. 1/8 ply about 3 inches long. It fits nice and tight and makes the rudder servo mount plywood area super strong. I squeezed both sides near the bottom front corner of the rudder servos and the plywood tray popped loose a little to easy for my liking.

MACE

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 4:54 AM   
highhorse


 

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Status: offline 		U will NOT have hinge issues if U follow these steps, as copied from the Great Planes website, Gee Bee manual, page 8.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1326-manual.pdf

don't worry that the instructions come from a "proppie" manual, the procedures are common "best practices", are the same for your jet, and the hinges will be INDESTRUCTIBLE.

there are helpful pics in the above links if the text below needs clarification.




❏ 1. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep in the center of each
hinge slot to allow the CA to “wick” in. Follow-up with a #11
blade to clean out the slots. Hint: If you have one, use a
high-speed rotary tool to drill the holes.

❏ ❏ 2. Use a sharp #11 blade to cut a 1/16" strip of covering
from each side of all of the hinge slots .

❏❏3. Cut 3/4" x 1" hinges from the CA hinge strip.
Snip off the corners so they go in easier.

❏ ❏ 4. Test fit the control surface to the wing (or stab) with the hinges in place. If
the hinges don't remain centered, stick a pin through the
middle of the hinge.

❏ ❏ 5. Remove any pins you may have inserted into the
hinges. Adjust the control surface so there is a small gap between the
parts. The gap should be small, just enough to ensure free movement of the control
surface through it's entire range.

❏ ❏ 6. Apply six drops of THIN CA to the top and bottom of
each hinge. DO NOT use CA accelerator. After the CA has
fully hardened, test the hinges by pulling on the control surface.

< Message edited by highhorse -- 10/29/2008 4:32 PM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 6:53 AM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		Thanks Highhorse!!!

Anyone out there had a bad Sprint/Boomerang CA hinge experience???

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 7:55 AM   
Doc...


 

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From: Grand Rapids, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Hi,
Alan has dotted his iii's and crosed his tees on the whole Boomerange series but as always, there are always issues. I have been building and flying over 32 years
and have never used these type of hinges before. As of today, I have never heard of ONE problem resulting in the use of these hinges. I actually took 2 pair of plyers
and tried to rip them. Couldn't do it. Install them properly and you'll be good to go!

Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 10:47 AM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Woketman!

Those mylar hinges in the kit are 100% OK if you apply them as follows.

First set them half way into the wing or tail or fins. Then a generous drop of thin CA first top, then bottom of the hinge. The type of mylar we use is layered both sides with an expanded mylar, so the CA gets sucked in by capillary action right into to the glue joint between the hinge and the wood.

Do not use CA "kicker" or accelerator.

A couple of moments later repeat this process all round.

Next, push the control surface on to the hinges. leaving enough spacing between flying surface and control surface to allow free movement.

(For the flap ensure enough gap to allow the full movement down to act as the airbrake and that it will return to full up position. If necessary use a credit card or similar in the hinge space to ensure an even gap).

Then repeat the gluing process with the thin CA on the control surface. After the glue has hardened, work the control surface up and down a few times with your hands to soften the hinge across the gap.

All my Boomerang models have used this hinge method for the last seven years through hundreds of flights, without a failure.

As for the clevis, same thing applies. I use them on all the planes I fly. I don't sell anything I would not fly myself. Anyone is free to inspect any of the demo models and see for themselves that is the case.


< Message edited by Turbinac -- 10/29/2008 10:53 AM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 1:06 PM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Alan,

I have had no problem with the glueing process. I'm still in construction with my new Sprint since there is no rush to complete the ship until next spring. The flying season is pretty much over here in Michigan. Just a hint on how I glued the flap. Your method worked great but I didn't use a credit card. What I used were 6 push pins. The ones that have the plastic tops. Once I was started to push the flap into the flying surface, about 3/4 of the way through, I evenly placed the 6 push pins along the surface then pushed the flap the rest of the way in. The actual metel pin stoped the flap from hitting the flying surface leaving a perfectly even small gap. After about 3-5 minutes I pulled the pins away then moved the flap up and down several times. By the way, Patricia is great to work with. She been a lot of help. Hope my method helps,

Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 2:14 PM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		Alan, isn't it better to apply the CA when BOTH sides of the hinge are installed rather than one side at a time? It seems like if one side is bare, CA will stil migrate in that direction and "fill up" the fuzz on the surface.

I know that this method has worked for you, but it seems like Highhorse's method would yield a stronger joint. But, on the other hand, I could be completely full of bull! I just don't know!!!!

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 3:34 PM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Can do either way.....your choice. Either way will be good. I just do it as I described.

If you do want to do both sides at once, you have to put a pin through the hinge centre so that it doesn't get pushed too far in as you assemble the two parts.

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 4:21 PM   
highhorse


 

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Status: offline 		Woket, I understand your reluctance.....it is, afterall a BIG investment!

I assure you that if you do it as per the instructions above (I've never tried Alan's way, but I'm certain he would never steer U wrong either) you will never, never be able to remove the hinged part without destroying it.

You don't need to trust us, though. Since U are in no rush, why not experiment with some CA hinges from the hobby shop and some scrap balsa? Try both ways and see what's what!

You will then have a nice "warm and fuzzy" about the process and then the NEXT time someone posts this question (there is always a next time) then you can re-assure THEM !



< Message edited by highhorse -- 10/29/2008 4:34 PM >

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 5:05 PM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		Just did that Horse. I actually came in here (where the computer is) to get something. I am just about to start CAing hinges. You are correct: I am VERY paranoid about a lot of stuff on turbine airframes. Helps make for a longer life!!!

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 5:43 PM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Hi,

I think, after reading all this, I was un-clear on how I was CAing the Flap. I CA the hinges completly in the Flap 1st. After about 10 min or so, I dry fit the flap to the flying surface to make sure the hinges go all the way in. If everything is still ok, then I attach the flap to the flying surface. Easy process. I would think it would take a real slow CA if you were to do all the hinges at the same time. Just my thinking.

Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 6:04 PM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		OK guys, I did the left aileron and waited about 30 minutes then PULLED! I easily put at least five times the axial (airframe X direction) load that I can EVER imagine it seeing in flight and all is well.

I guess I am satisfied. If I start thinking about it and worrying again, I'll just sart drinking!

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 8:39 PM   
Doksa


 

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Status: offline 		Has anyone installed a MW44 gold on the sprint?

I'am thinking the engine thrust might be to little.
I have a 44 looking for home until the Nana
Comes out. Alan how is the Nano protype
Flying?

John

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 8:57 PM   
Turbinac


 

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Status: offline 		Nano flies remarkably well, thanks.

I'm still finalising some details.

Should be out early 2009.

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/29/2008 10:58 PM   
highhorse


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Doc...

Hi,

I think, after reading all this, I was un-clear on how I was CAing the Flap. I CA the hinges completly in the Flap 1st. After about 10 min or so, I dry fit the flap to the flying surface to make sure the hinges go all the way in. If everything is still ok, then I attach the flap to the flying surface. Easy process. I would think it would take a real slow CA if you were to do all the hinges at the same time. Just my thinking.

Doc...

DOC, Nooooooooo!!!!

You will really goof up if u use slow CA. I think U don't understand the process I described above. ALL of the hinges are inserted at BOTH ends BEFORE ANY CA IS APPLIED. Then the THIN (ONLY) CA is carefully dripped into the small portion of the hinge which is still visible in the middle (six drops one side, then 6 drops opposite side), and it WICKS into the hinge AND THE BALSA. Because the surface is pre-positioned, the fast cure time of thin CA is not an issue. If U use "thick" CA it will not wick as well, won't penetrate the hinge and balsa. And as we all know penetration is GOOOOOOOOOOOOOD !!

Click on the above link for pics which will clarify.

WOKET,

Your caution is to be applauded. I'm sure you'll have a very nice and SAFE jet when U are done........

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/30/2008 1:00 AM   
Woketman



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Status: offline 		Well, I am done hinging. Ya know, after all these years of using nothing but Robart hinges, I figured it would go real fast with CA hinges. It has taken me most of the day, still ots of prep. But it is finally hinged (I hate hinging!!!).

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/30/2008 1:18 AM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Hi,
OK. I get the picture. Since I have never done it that way, I will practice using something other than the Sprint. I guess I never thought about the wick in thing. Makes sense though. I'm sure it will work. I'll let you know. Thanks for the help,

Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/30/2008 12:54 PM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Highhorse,

I guess if the truth be told, I'm from the old school of modeling. Hinging has never been one of favorite things. For 10 years I flew DVF and never had a problem. I used the old method of epoxying the hinges followed up by inserting small pins, 3 on each side of the hinge. Never any flutter at all. CAing is just something I never used. Well, after reading all these coments, it's time to change. I Googled "gluing mylar hinges" last night and found an article by Eric Henderson. He has been using your method for many years. The article also has many good pictures. Here is the web site for you see it all. Thanks for your help.

www.masportaviator.com/pdfs/MylarHinges.pdf

Doc...

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/30/2008 2:55 PM   
highhorse


 

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Status: offline 		,,,,,,and that's what RCU is all bout !

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RE: Boomerang Sprint Build Thread! - 10/31/2008 5:40 AM   
Doc...


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Alan,

On the front of the inlet, top and bottom, the is a piece attached to it. In all the pictures I see, and there is no mention of it in the instructions, should I assume this is to be removed before there installed?

Thanks,

Doc...

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