Posts: 35
Joined: 4/9/2006 From: Corpus Christi,
TX, USA Status: offline
Here goes a build of a Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane for my father. He has told me he wants it scale. So plan on panel lines, rivets, Cockpit, of course, opening doors and luggage doors, access doors, lights, wheels, strut, and some other things along the way. So far I think he wants electric, he may change his mind if not already, so this will leave the cowling intact.
< Message edited by minicrazy592 -- 7/17/2008 1:34:10 AM >
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Everyone crashes, it''s the matter of whose is cooler when it does!
Posts: 35
Joined: 4/9/2006 From: Corpus Christi,
TX, USA Status: offline
Well today I got a head start on the interior. I got an idea from a build of one of these on RCSB to make some of the interior parts like the dash, pedals, steering wheels out of epoxy. If you have handled this interior kit before you know how flimsy it is, so that's why I'm doing it, in addition of me being able to detail it more. So this morning I tried making a dash out of 30min epoxy and micro balloons. It turned out okay, but because of the micro balloons, they did act like balloons, they expanded and caused a bubbling effect on the back. So next I tried 6min epoxy on the pedals and the center storage?, they turned out okay too, they were a little rough though, they didn't pick up all of the details. So finally I tried all with Pro Finishing epoxy, hoping for a better finish, I hope. It is still drying.
PS: I never knew I thought I would ever watch epoxy dry, second by second.
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Everyone crashes, it''s the matter of whose is cooler when it does!
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Joined: 1/15/2002 From: San Diego,
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IMHO you're wasting your time with this epoxy thing. The reason the parts are so flimsy is so that the end result ends up extremely light. You stated your going to do all the bells and whistles on this plane. You can't do that and keep it lite enough. You need to find every way possible to keep weight off. If you must strengthen these parts, simply CA a piece of balsa into the backsides. You have a long long build ahead of you. I wouldn't waste time on the interior parts at this time...or odds are you'll end up with some strong arsed interior pieces made of epoxy that look inferior, and lose interest after that. The interior should be tackled at the point of actually being ready to install an interior. I have built one of these planes to extreme scale and have used the yokes/pedals, etc. exactly as they were manufactured and have found nothing negative in doing so. (I made my own panel out of balsa and styrene...see attached pic) Hate to throw any negativity into your thread, but you've jumped ahead to step 654 when you were doing so good. Besides, with Crisco embedded into the epoxy, how would you ever smoothly paint those parts. Anyone who says that the stock interior parts art too weak and flimsy is missing the point, and probably too impatient to be building a model of this complexity anyway. Now, put that interior back in its box and let's get started on those horizontal stabs. Good luck and keep posting your progress. SDC
< Message edited by SDCrashmaster -- 7/17/2008 10:01:30 PM >
Posts: 35
Joined: 4/9/2006 From: Corpus Christi,
TX, USA Status: offline
Yours looks really good. But the way I saw it done came out well. The dash and the small components are the only things getting done in this fashion. Weight really isn't an issue for me because I plan on a 110 for power, electric that is. I do have some questions for you though, on your doors, since the floor isn't at the right height, did you cut them short, or lenghthen them? I have seen your website on teokies build and the doors looked fine.
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Everyone crashes, it''s the matter of whose is cooler when it does!
Posts: 35
Joined: 4/9/2006 From: Corpus Christi,
TX, USA Status: offline
Here was his build: (http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6063&PN=1&TPN=1) Also SDCrashmaster how did you go about with the plastic skinning? I will admit I am just trying this out, nothing is set in stone and I haven't ruined any of the plastic so far.
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Everyone crashes, it''s the matter of whose is cooler when it does!
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Joined: 1/15/2002 From: San Diego,
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I lowered the floor by planing the formers. On the skin, you cut pieces to scale and deboss for rivet stress. Then sand the dimples off of the backside and CA to the sheeting, starting from the bottom back and working your way up and forward. Great documentation is key here. But the most important thing is to have fun! Paul