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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/15/2011 9:39 PM   
goirish



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Status: offline 		what should the spark plug be gaped at? Is there a certain kind of plug that I should buy? I got the dang thing so messed up now. Why don't we leave well enough alone. Just have to keep fooling with it. That little miss just bothered the heck out of me. Now I can't get it to go over 5000. I took the plug out and it is dark in color, which would indicate to me that it is rich. Is the HSN the one farthest way of the engine body. I don't have any manual so I shooting in the dark. I'm about to put one of my 4 strokes on it. The plug has a gap on it of .020, is that close? I am using ultra full synthetic at 50:1 by stihl.

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/15/2011 9:39 PM   
littlera


 

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Status: offline 		Speaking of throttle curves (and lack of sensitivity of throttle when nearing wide open throttle) this treatise I did last year may be of some value for those wanting to do it electronically instead of fiddling with the geometry of throttle arm / servo arm.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10062619/anchors_10062619/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10062619

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littlera

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/15/2011 10:44 PM   
mjohnst3


 

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From: Columbia , MO, USA
Status: offline 		Hey goirish,

Thats the right gap, 0.018-0.020, the CM6 NGK is a good plug. The electrode coming out of the plug should look like below nice light whitish tan and clean. Set you needles back to factory setting LSN is closets to the engine HSN is away. Start your engine and let it warm up a couple of min, then using a tach go to 2000 rpm set the low speed needle to peak rpm , then go full throttle using tach and set peak rpm idle back to 2000rpm check for peak rpm then throttle up full and check peak rpm. Now let the engine cool off about 15-20 min and check it again. As the engine breaks in you will need to do this about 2 more times. Also these engine don not respond to needle movement like nitro engines you may need to burp the throttle a little during tuning. The oil your using is good stuff but for break in you should be at 40:1.

Here is a good read for new gasser people, it helped me lots.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/anchors_8673009/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8673009


Mark

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/15/2011 11:51 PM   
RJConnet



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Status: offline 		p51tom,
The prop bolt in my RCGF 45 is drilled and tapped for a 5mm spinner bolt. A 10-32 bolt will screw in but is very sloppy and should not be used. The Tru-Turn spinner on my Extra is not nearly as long as your P51 prop spinner is and I found a 5mm bolt long enough at a local Ace Hardware store. Good luck finding one long enough for you P51..............RJ

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 12:37 AM   
ahicks


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: karolh


quote:

ORIGINAL: gringopete

 

I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.

Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/

 Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.

Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.

1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.

The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.



I never tried this method of engine tuning, but will give it a try and see how it all pans out. Guess there is some truth in the saying, '' more ways than one to skin a cat or tune an engine ''

Karol


X2! Different, but I can see the logic. Will have to try it as well. -Al

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 1:58 AM   
Captmicom


 

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Status: offline 		Very Good Point Gregg...

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 2:12 AM   
Captmicom


 

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Status: offline 		That is reasonable.... any where in the 7k range is good because it will unload in the air by 500 to 800 RPM depending on the prop you are running.

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 2:48 AM   
goirish



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Status: offline 		I will try again tomorrow. If I get it close this time I'm gonna leave it alone

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 11:56 AM   
Aug



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From: Somerset, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		I got my 26cc RCGF engine from BP Hobbies and put it on a Seagull Laser 200. I'm very happy with the engine and the support I got from BP Hobbies.

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V815101

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 1:09 PM   
gringopete



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We have the long spinner bolts that you are looking for. Here is the link

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=E1294667


Gregg


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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 1:12 PM   
gringopete



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Status: offline 		Goirish

send me an email with your address and i'll send you the manual for your engine.

Gregg


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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/16/2011 2:11 PM   
karolh


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Captmicom

That is reasonable.... any where in the 7k range is good because it will unload in the air by 500 to 800 RPM depending on the prop you are running.

Captmicom



It is not unsual for some small capacity gas engines to unload as much as 1,500 + rpm in the air.

Karol



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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 3:48 AM   
rfk1381



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quote:

ORIGINAL: gringopete

 

I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.

Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/

 Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.

Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.

1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.

The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.



Greg,

Thanks for the tuning technique!

Question - in steps 2 and 3, can you please explain, "1 hour or 1/12 of a turn", which seems like a text format error that happened when posted.

Thanks...Ron

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 4:01 AM   
karolh


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rfk1381


quote:

ORIGINAL: gringopete

 

I'll see if I can answer a couple of questions here.

Jim at Agape Racing and hobby has the timing wheel. http://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/

 Hope this helps everyone in the tuning and troubleshooting their engines. The following applies to just about any engine that uses a Walbro type carb.

Try changing the plug. If that does not work here is the easiest way to set the needles on the engines.

1) Start by turning out both the high and low needles 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 turns.
2) Go full throttle and peak the high end with the high speed needle valve. When the engine sags you have gone too far. Back the needle off 1 hour or 1/12 of at turn.
3) Go full throttle and peak the engine using the low speed needle valve. When the engine sags back off the low end needle 1 hour or 1/12 of a turn. That’s right peak the engine using the low end needle. The reason for this is that the engine gets fuel from both needles once the engine comes off of idle.
4) Bring the engine down to idle. Adjust the low end rpm idle with the trim on your transmitter. The engine should not need any adjustment at this point.

The engine at this point should be almost perfect. It should transition from low to High speed without any burps. If the engine does not run good after this setup look for an air leek, bad reed valve or carb diaphragm.



Greg,

Thanks for the tuning technique!

Question - in steps 2 and 3, can you please explain, ''1 hour or 1/12 of a turn'', which seems like a text format error that happened when posted.

Thanks...Ron



Adjusting the high or low needles by "1 hour or 1/12 of a turn" also means 5 mins. of the hour hand or 5 sec. of the second hand on the clock face.

Karol

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 4:47 AM   
p51tom


 

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Status: offline 		I decided to tap the shaft for a 6mm bolt and use a 6mmx1.0x110mm bolt from Bolt Depot. They do not carry 5mm bolts that long. Thank you BP Hobbies but your 5mm bolts are too short. I will let everyone know how things work out. This Don Brown 5" P51 spinner needs a bolt about 4.25" long. Bolt Depot on the InterNet has a great assortment of hardware and does not require a minimum order.
Thanks everyone, P51Tom

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 5:26 AM   
rfk1381



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Status: offline 		I learn something new every day, even at my doddering old age!

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 4:07 PM   
mesaflyer


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: p51tom

I decided to tap the shaft for a 6mm bolt and use a 6mmx1.0x110mm bolt from Bolt Depot. They do not carry 5mm bolts that long. Thank you BP Hobbies but your 5mm bolts are too short. I will let everyone know how things work out. This Don Brown 5'' P51 spinner needs a bolt about 4.25'' long. Bolt Depot on the InterNet has a great assortment of hardware and does not require a minimum order.
Thanks everyone, P51Tom

I don't know for sure, but I thought that I read on here somewhere that the shafts on these motors have been heat treated and hardened, so it might be pretty tough going to drill and tap. Just a thought. I could be wrong.

I would like to know how it works out for you.

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 4:25 PM   
Captmicom


 

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Status: offline 		You are right about the cranks but most of these engines have a prop bolt or shaft that is softer and can be drilled.

Captmicom

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/17/2011 10:59 PM   
acerc



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Status: online 		Got some more run time in today. This little engine just blows me away. Had to replace the fish scale, found to be inaccurate. 18x8 @ 7000+ rpm's and 14lbs of thrust. The plane only weight's 16.5
SWEEEEEET!


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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/18/2011 2:06 PM   
raydar


 

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Status: offline 		Rcg 20 beam mount 16 3 8 graupner prop 7400 rpm and 11.6 lbs thrust,

Had extended my throttle arm and adjusted my servo arm position to help with the throttle curve (huge difference) so even with full end points on the radio I was only 95 % thottle open but this does not mean much, the 16 3 8 graupner is to much for this engine. 

Remarkably with the big prop and having more control over the idle with the trim button the engine would idle at 1400 rpm! Though I dont think I would be comfortable leaving it that low.
 
This is not totally bad news for me though as the reason im trying 3 blade props is a ground clearance issue with a skybolt kit im building with this engine, will try a grapner 15 3 8 when I get one.



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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/18/2011 8:52 PM   
p51tom


 

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Status: offline 		I discovered that a 6mm bolt would require drilling the spinner hole out. I do not feel it has enough room so I need to use 5mm bolt. Because I have not been able to find a 5mmx.8x110 I decided to make my own. I used a 90mm and a 25mm bolt and sodered them together to get the proper length. I taped a section of brass tubing screwed the bolt in from each end then sodered them. Because the bolt is used to only hold on the cone I think it will be strong enough. Any ideas out there?
Have a good day, P51Tom

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/18/2011 9:33 PM   
gringopete



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Status: offline 		P51tom

follow this link to Mcmaster Car they have what you are looking for. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=dodezw.

Gregg


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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/19/2011 3:24 PM   
p51tom


 

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Status: offline 		Thank you Greg, I put my order in today. I bought this 45cc engine from BP Hobbies. I have 7 RCGF Engines and I am very happy with them. My P51 is three years old and I am replacing the ST 3250 with the 45cc. I love the way it fits in this plane. I will be buying 3 more 45cc rear carb in the near future.
Have a good day, P51Tom

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/19/2011 3:36 PM   
p51tom


 

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Status: offline 		I will be running my RCGF 45cc in my TFGS P51 soon and need to make a decision on the prop size. The plane has been flown over the past few years with a 18x10 Zinger on a ST3250 engine. I am planning on using a 20x8 Zinger on the 45cc. Is this the correct prop to break in the engine or should I use a 20x10?
Have good day, P51Tom

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RE: RCGF Engines - 8/19/2011 4:11 PM   
gringopete



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Status: offline 		Tom

McMaster -Car is here in Jersey you should have it by Monday , maybe tomorrow.
Use a 20x8 prop for break in.


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