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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/9/2009 3:24 PM   
Patterndude1


 

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Good to see all of you on here.



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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/16/2009 8:27 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		two questions:

what are some good props for the YS FZ110s?

do you guys use twist clamps on the fuel lines or is it a waste of time?

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/16/2009 10:23 PM   
lodomjr


 

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Status: offline 		I believe guys are using the APC 15x10. If you use good quality fuel line you should not need any clamps. I did not use clamps on my YS .91AC or my 1.40L, but if you do it can't hurt. There are a few sights about tuning that type of YS Engine that's pretty good info. But if you have trouble shoot me a PM and we can go in further detail. I know once you get it right you can for get it. As far as fuel goes the YS blends are pretty good no matter the brand. I prefer to run Cool Power 30% heli. It's the fuel we run in our "DZ's", it just keep us from switching fuels. I'm sure there are other routes to take this is just mine and I know it works.

Larry
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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 1:03 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Ok, thanks! I've got a 15x10, and a 16x8 which should be ok to try too, I guess. I know some guys (not pattern) are using a 16x6 and I thought that sounded light.

What do you guys do as far as engine care with the YS? Run it dry at the end of the day? After run or marvel mystery oil? Any other basic things to know?

< Message edited by gaRCfield -- 1/20/2009 1:05 PM >

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 2:45 PM   
Ryan Smith


 

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Status: online 		Run it dry if you're not going to be flying for about a week or longer so you don't eat the bearings up.

I like to keep mine wet if I'm flying several days in succession or close to it so that they are easier to prime.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 5:45 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Ok, and no after run, right? I thought I read something about YS not liking after run, but not sure where it came from.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 6:03 PM   
mjfrederick


 

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Status: offline 		If you use after-run oil, it has to be 100% synthetic. If you're using a good fuel with a 100% synthetic oil, you won't need after-run oil unless you're putting the engine up for several months.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 6:16 PM   
jlkonn



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Status: offline 		I run CoolPower 30% Heli fuel in all my YS motors.
I own two 1.10's, two 1.60 DZ's and a 1.40 Sport.
I last ran the 1.40 on my Focus II two years ago. I put about 2 gallons thru it and
then installed a 1.60 and have not run the 1.40 since. I didn't do anything special to it
when I put it away. I have decided to sell the 1.40 and looked it over the other night.
I took the valve cover off the cam side cover and the backplate. The motor still looks
new without any after run oil or even running the motor dry.
YMMV
JLK

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/20/2009 7:34 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Awesome, thanks guys.

Has anyone tried the new Angry Burger? The commercial totally got me, and Angry is definitely a good word. I was pretty angry with myself for eating such garbage, and pretty angry with myself for, once again, getting Burger King french fries and remembering how much they suck.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 3:09 PM   
mjfrederick


 

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Status: offline 		Kids... when will they learn Burger King fries are gross??? When I want a burger I tend to make my own or go to Whataburger. Their fries aren't great, but the burgers make up for it...

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 4:19 PM   
rcpattern



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Status: offline 		Whataburger. Now there is a good burger. And the fries arent the best, but they certainly arent bad. I really like their breakfast also.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 4:20 PM   
jlkonn



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JLK

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 5:19 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		I'm planning on coming to NATS this year. From what I gather, it is the responsibility of the seasoned pattern pilot to show the new guy the ropes and show him the best (cheap) burger joint in town

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 7:07 PM   
jlkonn



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Status: offline 		You know....I'm probably going to get rocks thrown at me but the first place I stop when I pull in to town at the Nats is White Castle!

JLK

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 7:18 PM   
cdodom



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Chris Odom

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 8:50 PM   
Ryan Smith


 

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 8:52 PM   
RCBruski65


 

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/21/2009 10:11 PM   
mjfrederick


 

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Status: offline 		Ahhh... the ole "Gut Grenades!"

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/22/2009 1:46 AM   
RC_Pattern_Flyer



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Status: offline 		Getting private Health Insurance is total BS... what a load of crapolla.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/22/2009 4:02 AM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Some more YS questions:

Does the 'pinch test' do anything for a YS four stroke? I am wondering if I should leave the line from the tank to the regulator exposed for such reasons. If not, I'll do all my fueling/defueling through "T"s stuffed through the front of the cowl.

Also, just for clarity:

The regulator gets pressure from the front of the case, in the front, and it goes into the bottom of the regulator. Two lines on the side feed pressure to the tank and receive pressurized fuel from the tank. One line on the other side feeds pressurized, regulated fuel to the needle valve. The carb lets air into the rear of the case where it is pressurized and exits into a 'box' where it mixes with the pressurized fuel and is then injected into the cylinder.

Right?

Also a little silver ring that came with the prop nut goes... (behind the prop in the little groove to help keep it centered?)

I'm asking you guys 'cause you're the best in the business. There are no YS four strokes in my club, nor is there really anyone I trust with such equipment. I want to be sure to do this right with this artful gem.

< Message edited by gaRCfield -- 1/22/2009 5:03 AM >

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/24/2009 10:41 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Struggling with pull pull and had to post some pics to get some help.

Well one thing I found is that the rudder is 1/16" off to one side of the cabin. It looks centered with all the cutouts, but is actually not centered in the plane.
The rudder horn is/was asymmetrical. I drilled a new hole which is pretty close to symmetrically spaced from the other, maybe within 1/32".

Here are some pics. I omitted the PC board servo horn with the offset. I can get another pic if you feel like looking at that too, but right now I gotta hit the laundromat with my heat transfer book.


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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/24/2009 10:46 PM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		more pics...

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/25/2009 3:13 AM   
lodomjr


 

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Status: offline 		gaRCfield,

The servo being a little out of center should not be a problem. What is important is that you measure from the center hinge line to where the rudder cables hooks to the control horn. That measurement should be the same at the servo from the servo control horn screw out to the cable connection is going to be. If the lengths can't be the same you would want the longer length to be at the servo, but it needs to be very close to the same lenths. Make sure the cable are tight but not real tight at center. Make sure all sub-trims , trim tabs are zero and the control horn on the servo is 90 degrees to the servo then center the rudder to the fuse with the cables.

You may already know all this but this is what I do and I have no problems. I hope I was some help

Happy flying

Larry

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/25/2009 3:44 AM   
gaRCfield


 

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Status: offline 		Every little bit helps, thank you.

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RE: Post all your "crappola" here - 1/25/2009 4:22 AM   
Ryan Smith


 

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Status: online 		Joe,

What airplane is that?

I don't really like the rudder horn at all, to me it looks out of center in the rudder, however it could be the shadow on the one side that's creating an optical illusion. Larry hit the nail pretty well on the head. Be very sure that you've got your sub trims as close to zero as you can get, that is very important.

The option I like to use is a little more expensive, but I like the feel of the rudder and it's held up for me well since I started flying and I've used this on every pattern airplane I've owned since. I prefer to use a pull-pull cable wheel on the rudder like this http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN3512. I feel that it keeps constant tension on the cables, and if you get lucky and get your horns the exact width at the control surface, or you can use a screw and have very finite adjustment, you can adjust the width at the rear to keep perfect geometry. The wheels I use are the 45mm ones, so to have a perfect setup, you'll need the center of the holes at the horn on your rudder to be 45mm as well, in addition to the exit slot in the fuse to be 45mm. This will ensure a straight line for the rudder cables to travel, and they'll always be that same distance apart. You use only one piece of cable, and it loops around the front, and goes under a screw that keeps it from popping up. It's a little more aggravating getting the one cable looped through the fuse until you've done it a few times, then it just becomes a little less aggravating. You can basically use the same principles with a double-sided servo arm like you're using, however the cables won't always be the same distance apart, and the one that's not in tension can potentially become very slack. You can combat this by moving your attachment points on your servo arm to be close the attach points on your horn, or you could even cross the rudder cables. That helps sometimes too. I never cross cables with a pull-pull wheel, however, but I've done it a few times with servo arms.

Are you familiar with the Ackermann principle? The same thing applies to rudder cables. You may can do some research on it and learn possible more than you wanted to know about pull pull cable setups. I probably wouldn't reccomend switching out the rudder setup in this airplane, as it would be more trouble than it's worth if you can make something work with what you have, but for the future, I would keep that in mind.

I hope this helps.

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