Attaching Tissue  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       



All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Vintage & Antique RC >> Attaching Tissue Page: [1]

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
Attaching Tissue - 8/13/2008 5:34:10 PM   
JeffH


 

Posts: 657
Joined: 1/17/2002
From: Carrollton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I am going to use dope and tissue on my new EDF Skyray. Old finish on new model, go figure. I am doing it for the weight.
I am pretty familiar with the whole doping process, but do I need to attach the tissue wet? The reason that I ask is that I am not concerning with shrinking over ribs. The plane is fully sheeted and very stiff.
Also, which is lighter, tissue or silk span?

Thanks
Jeff
       Post #: 1

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/13/2008 7:10:28 PM   
Jim Thomerson



Posts: 2889
Joined: 10/9/2002
From: Austin, TX, USA
Status: offline 		There are two ways to go with tissue over sheet. In any case have the wood well doped and smooth. Simply cut the tissue to size and lay it down dry. Use thinner starting in the center and working out, sick and rub it down. This can be done universally. However, on thick surfaces which won't warp, stick the tissue down around the edges. Let the thinner dry, then wet the tissue with water. Let dry, then stick down with thinner. This will give you a smoother surface than just putting tissue down with thinner. On curved surface you may have to slit the tissue and make gores to get it to fit. Tissue doesn't stretch much.

Tissue should be lighter than silkspan. You can put silkspan on the same way.

(in reply to JeffH)
       Post #: 2

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/13/2008 7:14:24 PM   
TFF


 

Posts: 968
Joined: 10/30/2006
From: Memphis, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Tissue goes on dry, and silkspan on wet. Silkspan is heaver but stronger. Tissue finishes better with less paint. With tissue you might dope the hole thing onto the structure.

(in reply to JeffH)
       Post #: 3

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/13/2008 9:19:14 PM   
dbarrym



Posts: 1251
Joined: 10/21/2003
From: Carlsbad, CA, USA
Status: offline 		The thinner method works best, IMHO - the thinner wicks the dope through the tissue, and as it dries it pulls the tissue down tight against the wood. Using straight dope, the tissue can get a 'lumpy' surface. Plus the thinner method yields a lighter finish needing less dope/sealer/filler for a smoother final finish.

I've had the best results using nitrate dope - less shrinkage and it seems easier to work with. I final sand the airframe down to 320 grit, put on two slightly thinned and one thick coat of clear dope, lightly sanding between coats, then apply the tissue as described above. Use triangular pieces when covering doing compound curved or convex sections and cut excess tissue off (darts) for concave surfaces. Two thinned coats of clear, one or two of thinned sealer (I make my own using clear dope and fine talc), one of a covering primer or base color and then color trim.

If you are going to apply a different chemistry finish over the doped base, be sure to let the doped model cure for a few days to a week (a good idea in any case).

Good luck with your Ford -

Barry



Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by dbarrym -- 8/13/2008 9:31:09 PM >

(in reply to TFF)
       Post #: 4

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/13/2008 11:42:17 PM   
JeffH


 

Posts: 657
Joined: 1/17/2002
From: Carrollton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I greatly appreciate all of the help on this. I will go with the thinner method. I am looking for light, and since tissue takes less filler/paint to make it smooth, that will be my choice. Strength is not an issue with this plane, it is very rigid and strong. Its all one piece, with sheeted foam wings, not much there to warp. I had planned on using nitrate since it fills better and I am not worried about fuel. I knew about letting dope gas off for awhile before painting. I will be using some sort of acrlyic paint, prob testors water based stuff.

Thanks
Jeff

(in reply to dbarrym)
       Post #: 5

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/14/2008 2:53:58 AM   
tri-pacer


 

Posts: 122
Joined: 5/20/2007
From: napa, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Jeff,

Try this site; it's an old Comet kit primer on how to cover airplanes with tissue. http://www.antiquemodeler.org/Model%20Building%20Tips/Comet_Tissue_Covering_Guide_.htm

Chuck

(in reply to JeffH)
       Post #: 6

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/23/2008 5:23:26 PM   
pd1


 

Posts: 131
Joined: 11/24/2006
From: noydb, MA, USA
Status: offline 		Just a little comment.
I'm no expert, but I just did a short how to with pictures on tissue and sheet balsa.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=278759&postcount=50

This is not the only way of doing it, but it works well for me.

Paul

(in reply to tri-pacer)
       Post #: 7

RE: Attaching Tissue - 8/26/2008 2:22:01 AM   
JeffH


 

Posts: 657
Joined: 1/17/2002
From: Carrollton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks again, every little bit of information helps! As I learn, I will probably use a combination of everyones input as well as developing my own techniques.
Jeff

(in reply to pd1)
       Post #: 8

Page:   [1]
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Vintage & Antique RC >> Attaching Tissue
Page: [1]





Jump to:


Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Member Video Posts | RCU Video Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

© 2001 - 2007 24-7 RC, LLC, all rights reserved.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America

Kaango.com Classifieds

1.141RCU4