RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (Full Version)

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Mr.FiberOptic -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/25/2008 5:38 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: Bdegan

What about this engine .......

MT-62....price is great

http://www.lsproengines.com/103008_006.htm

this rcgf 65cc is 5.5hp and the same $350 price as that MT-62 and the MT doesn't say what hp it is from the link you provided.
> http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Details.cfm?ProdID=30&category=0

Zenoah G62 was about 4.6 hp if i recall correctly.
Rcgf 65 5.5hp.
if that MT62 is about the same hp as the zenoah i would recommend the Rcgf 65cc with about 1 hp more and $350 price.



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/26/2008 4:04 PM)

Guys, Im stuck on the tail wheel assembly, is this wheel free or is it suppose to move with the rudder, there is a brass piece that looks as if would thread into the rudder feather but I cant find any hole underneath, if you have any idea please HEEELLLPPPP! Thanks[:@]



T3beatz -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/26/2008 4:13 PM)

if there is no hole drill one... there should be a wire with a spring that goes through the hole on the brass piece and into the top of the tailwheel...



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/26/2008 4:14 PM)

Do you mind if I give you a call? or if yu can call me?



T3beatz -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/26/2008 4:15 PM)

sure 314-222-8143 T.J.



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/26/2008 4:24 PM)

Here they are.



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 12:29 AM)

Im getting ready to mount the engine and was wondering what size stand-offs I should order, at Troybuilt they only have up to 3 inch, should I drop in 4 inch with the RCFG 62? Thanks guys.



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 12:45 AM)

I would go for the 4" as this gives you an added fulcrum advantage with a tail heavy plane and also should give you good clearance with spinner/prop from cowl.
If you loosely hold you cowl in position and measure the distance from front of motor box to front of cowl..this is the necessary distance (engine + standoff + a smiggen more for clearance) needed.



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 1:16 AM)

Bobzilla, how did you affix the canopy to the fuse? the are no dowels in the kit to do this, this is already starting to piss me off. Also, they cracked the fuse in the arch part about 1/4 inch by 3 inch hole, and they still covered it and shipped it out, to me, the idiot who bought this.



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 3:44 AM)

Look for 2 carbon fiber 1/4 tubes..about 2" long..these glue into the hatch front leaving about 3/8 sticking out..this then slides into the f1 former..(2 holes)
The 2 rear attatchment brackets..with blind nuts are weak and needs lots of extra glue/support. The blind nuts and screws for this is metric..and I found hard to find
if you loose in your bolts in a box of nut/bolts like I did. I replaced with 4/40 blind nuts and 1" bolts but this is not necessary if your happy with metrics.
I also put extra glue inside the canopy where it attatches as there is not much glue there now. The canopy/hatch it extremely weak and will crack easily. I received mine cracked and got a free replacment within days from JOhn at nitroplanes. If you find damage to your arf..let nitroplanes know..with maybe a picture..I find nitro support excellent in this area. There is a special NitroPlanes support are here in RCUniverse.

p.s. I also created an additional 1/8" ply brace INSIDE the very front of the hatch to help support those 2 carbon fiber tubes that you will be glueing in.




DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 8:58 AM)

Bobzilla, I have waited for over a month for the cowl that came cracked and still have not received it, they said they are going to send me another fuse, I just hope is not another month. Thanks for all your help, I just dont know if is even worth working on this plane anymore. I had not noticed the cracked fuse, and had already glued in the rudder and the eleverator feathers. Don know now what good is a fuse going to do. Im considering a sledge hammer maybe my only option. BUt will sleep on it over night and try to cool off. Are there any other surprises that you can remember?

Also, the firewall goes in crooked on the bottom and straight on the top, did you have this issue also?



T3beatz -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 11:10 AM)

Is that the trust angle they have built in?



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 3:04 PM)

Yes..they have the thrust angle built in..just make sure to square it up verically as best as you can. There are a whole bunch of surprises with this arf..and I have tried to show/identify all of them in this thread. I'm sorry to hear about your fuselage and as you have already glued in your rudder..a new fuselage would be nice as a spare.
Don't forget to mount your landing gear so it is facing forward. If you don't, the static cg is wrong and the plane very susceptable to tipping over on landing..just ask me how I know that!! I have over a dozen flights now on my plane and have let one of our local IMAC boyz give it a try. He says he finds no bad habits, likes the way it knive edges..but alas he also says it flys heavy..and I'm sure that is because of the extra pounds I had to add to nose to balance out the plane. I'm thinking of removing my DA-50 and installing an older 3w60 which makes 6hp vice 5hp. Good luck on your build.

BTW.. my cowling cracked already..I am going to try to monokote over the crack..but may have to just sand and paint..
The cowling is extremely weak, just like the hatch..but for $299 you get what you get!!

bobzilla





DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 6:54 PM)

Bobzilla, do you have a pic of how you put on the pants, seems to me the screws are not long enough for the wheels, they get to close to the pants if I try to make them reach. They are brass like screws.



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/27/2008 7:44 PM)

here is bascially how i do all my pants..first..I align the pants to the angle I want them when plane is on ground. I then mark and drill holes thru the pants and landing gear, cut a big slot for the axle to fit in, and glue in blind nuts to inside of pants. I slot the pants as in the picture for easy on and off. Use locktight to hold the pants bolts in place and axle nut also.
See the pics.




DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/28/2008 2:47 PM)

Weel. I was able to get longer bolts and cut them to size, the pants are on now. Bobzilla, when you put in the engine, what was your vertical offset, Im gonna make some wood dowels 4" and see how that goes, worried about my drill press since is only a 3 inch. Here in Miami is a pain to find hex bolts also in the 4 to 5 inch range. I also saw in your gas tank setup and on the kit, that the wing bolts are right by the wing tube, are you having a hard time putting in the wing bolts since you moved your tank setup?

Note: I always take the batteries out of the plane after I fly them, so putting in the batteries on the motor box would not allow me to do this. I was hoping with this RCGF 62cc I would be able to put the batteries inside the fuse, maybe right behind the throtle and choke servos, and the ignition battery between the two servos. Also, what spinner size did you get, I have only a drill guide for DA50, and dont know if the holes would match up, I need to see if Piston knows if they do, will give him a call.



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/28/2008 3:52 PM)

I used titanium axles, not the supplied bolts. I also upgraded larger and harder 4" Sullivan tires, and used double collars on the ends..
just to make sure tires don't depart axles on take off.
There should be no vertical offset on engine..it should be mounted exactly center of motorbox (thrustline center).
Making 4" wood dowels is good. In the past I have used 1" oak dowels that I get at Craft Store (Micheals).
I found long bolts at our hardware store 1/4-20 and used to secure engine thru dowels.
I coated the dowels in fiberglass and epoxy to give addidtional strength from splitting. Spend extra time to ensure each dowel is exactly same length..or it could create undue stress on an engine tab and cause to break. I have no problems getting bolts into wing..I use a 1 1/4" metal bolt and larger washer. I also drilled and glued into the wing an additional plastic bolt (head cut off), then made an additional hole in fuselage side. I secure the wing then with this "safety" encase main bolt works loose. (I really don't like flying with only 1 wing attachement bolt).
I am sure you will still need all the weight you can get up front..so I would still plan on mount heavy batteries up front on motor box. I charge the batteries thru the side switches which have built in charge jack. This is link to switch that I prefer for all my planes: http://airwildpilotshop.com/MoreInfo-1.asp?title=product&id=434
In the past, I had a spinner come off in flight, fall back and whack the prop, which broke, then it vibrated to such extent that it destroy the motor box with sever vibration..all happened in just a few seconds..while I was a top rpm. I don't use spinners anymore as I hand start my DA-50. If you do use a spinner..don't forget to balance it and backplate also..even if you don't have to cut opening for prop..I have found many out-of-balance right from factory.

Hope these answers helps you!
bobzilla



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/28/2008 4:01 PM)

Excuse the ignorance, but how do you move the servo without the receiver? using this swicth? I have a 9303 transmitter. I just ordered a 32oz tank from Troybuilt, spinner and props, I will be using fromeco Lions (2) witha powerbox Swtich/Regulator.



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/28/2008 6:15 PM)

Im confused on your question..
The hookup is: Battery -> Switch -> Receiver

When the switch is in the off postion..you plug your charger into the side of the switch and it feeds the battery to charge. (See photo) No 3rd charger wire needed.

I use two(2) 5-cell NIMH 3000 from www.hangtimes.com for my batteries. I mount then on top motorbox, run the heavy duty leads to the switch..then on to the receiver.
For the 2nd battery, if you run out of empty channels to plug into receiver..just use a y-cord on choke or throttle servo. The receiver does not really care where it gets fed power from..either battery plug or any unused/used slot in a 9 channel rx.

I have fromeco lions (2800) in my 33% yak and love them. I used to use a powerbox..but I just seem to be adding weight and another thing to go wrong..so I do like Bill Hemmel does..just simplify..2 batteries, 2 switches and go fly.

The new A123 batteries are a hot ticket now at our field..they charge fast, easy connect directly into the new 9 channel 2.4ghz receivers. NO powerbox nor regulator needed.
Here is nice receiver to hook up directly to A123. No additional switch, powerobx nor regulators needed.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMAR9100


BTW..a 32 oz is alot of GAS. GAS engines are not fuel crazy like Nitro engines..and I can fly 25 to 30 minutes on a 20oz tank. You also might find a 32 (big tank) make harder to get your fingers in there to attached wing bolts. If you mount the tank way forward then you run into another problem that the tank far away from the cg..and when you get to an
empty tank..you now become more tail heavy for landing.. I prefer to mount my tanks on or as close to cg as possible. Nothing worse than a plane that is tail heavy twitchy elevator for landing. Gas @ 7lbs per gal..means almost 1.75 lbs of gas weight when full.









DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/28/2008 10:28 PM)

Bozilla, I mounted the batteries on the motor box, and ordered the switches you told me about, but Im using fromecos, and I just realized Im gonna have to go with the powerbox switch since I already have the batteries, or else get 2 regs. What do you think. On the question, DSC, how do you use activate the servos on a 9303 using DSC, dont remember ever using it. I already made the mount with square dowels, looks so so but well see how it flies. I have to call troy built and see if the change the order, so I can get some regs. Also, when you are measuring the Cg on this plane do you check at wing tube center?



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/29/2008 1:37 AM)

JUST use your trainer cord to plug into dsc.and then to your 9303 Your radio manual has more info on that. You dont have to turn on your radio.
Which powerbox you using as there are many..some with regulators? Switches on the most powerboxs are quite nice..needing simultainous hold down two buttons to turn on and off.

You check the cg with at wing root..(next to fuselage) and measure from front of wing back. I set mine to the cg stated in manual.
You can extend this to a straight line to the wings tips if that is more convenient, but since the wing tip is rounded in front, it is difficult to find the exact place to start your measurement from.






DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/29/2008 4:45 PM)

Here are the front a side view of the engine mount, I also made some support braces for the cowl, let me know what you see wrong if possible. Thanks



bobzilla -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/29/2008 5:00 PM)

wow..looks great..I can see the offset. I see also you figured out how to put that top cowl brace together (no help in manual there!!). I drilled and tapped in the wood
for a 1/4-20 plastic bolt, then mounted cowl, reached up inside and marked corresponding spot for hole thru cowl. The cowl mounting is terrible on this arf..as the cowl is flimsy, out of round, and no mounting ring inside. I give manufacture a 2/10 on this part!
You might want to add reinforcement braces (I use angle aluminum) to the front sides of your
motor box. Photos show example of inside brace..although outside is easier to accomplish.





DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/29/2008 5:36 PM)

Here are the front a side view of the engine mount, I also made some support braces for the cowl, let me know what you see wrong if possible. New images, the old were out of focus.



DCoy70 -> RE: nitro planes SU-26 50CC specs (11/29/2008 5:50 PM)

Bobzilla, I used the triangular wood blocks to lock in the firewall, inside and outside, but I agree, that looks and is a much stronger way. I did that on my PattyWag. BTW, what is the ratio of epoxy to alcohol you use to seal the firewall, I want to also do it to the dowels. Or are you using somehting else?



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