Posts: 147
Joined: 11/18/2003 From: Old,
FL, USA Status: offline
Klaatu,
That's a very good question. Unfortunately, I haven't got the slightest idea yet. I was thinking about was maybe carving a small piece of 3/16 balsa or ply into about a 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch airfoil shape and then attaching it to the inside of the rudder. I would then attach the pushrod to the top of this piece. I've attached a pic of someone else's skymaster with this same type of setup. Only thing I dislike about this setup is that the pieces really don't belong there. They kind of stick out like a sore thumb.
Then, I though maybe there is something that Dubro makes for this exact purpose. So I figured I would take a ride out to my LHS to see if anything exists.
Other than that, I can't seem to think about anything else. Any ideas? All suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Anthony
< Message edited by atsioukl -- 10/24/2007 2:13:27 PM >
Posts: 438
Joined: 6/10/2002 From: Sheridan,
AR, USA Status: offline
dubro had cable guides and one time and they were white i think ca was used to set the sleve, or lite solder and make the cable stronger but still must slide in the sleve work grave yard going to bed frank
I have not used them but looking ahead to building my Skymaster and seeing how little room there is in the booms, I may order a few sets of those or something like them to try on some simpler planes first.
Posts: 1111
Joined: 12/11/2001 From: South Plainfield, NJ, USA Status: offline
If you are using thin cable, pull/pull may be your best option. If you want a more concealed installation I would use thicker nyrod or solid metal rod.
Posts: 147
Joined: 11/18/2003 From: Old,
FL, USA Status: offline
I don't think pull/pull is an option since the plane basically finished. The kit supplies solid metal pushrods but I decided not to use them because I didn't want to place the servo in the boom or use bellcranks in the wing. So instead I went with flexible pushrods.
The Dubro Lazer Pushrod Exits would do a great job of concealing that gaping hole where each pushrod exits but I don't think they would help eliminate the flexing. What I could do is use a large Dubro control horn and mount it to the boom/tail in a sideways position. I could then drill out one of the holes in it to fit the pushrod guide tube. The control horn could be ground/sanded to a more narrow profile so it wouldn't look as bad. I've attached a sketch of what I am thinking. Let me know your thoughts.
Posts: 1111
Joined: 12/11/2001 From: South Plainfield, NJ, USA Status: offline
Anthony,
Your problem is with the push. You can always add a more solid material to the exiting portion of your cable, but, if the cable is too thin it will not support the force needed to push the surface. You can add a spring and only use one rudder at a time. This way the spring would pull the rudder back straight and the servo would only need to pull to activate. Left side for right turn, right side for left.
The servo in the boom isn't a bad idea or just mount it in the wing next to each boom. This would solve your problem and give you a firm control in both directions for both rudders.
Posts: 129
Joined: 7/4/2003 From: Marietta,
GA, USA Status: offline
Having not used them yet, I thought perhaps they may help reduce the bowing away from the boom. But I am just guessing. I am working up a list to place an order soon. Now I am definitely going to add some of the Dubro things to my shopping list. I thought I saw some similar devices in my Sig catalog but cannot find them now. It would be nice if they came in different lengths. Anyone know of other, similar parts? I imagine the tradeoff between decreasing the angle between the cable exit path and the side versus how much wood removal it takes to do so would make for some hard choices.
Posts: 147
Joined: 11/18/2003 From: Old,
FL, USA Status: offline
Well, I'm getting closer to completion each day. I clear-coated the airplane about a month ago and have since been installing servos in the wing. Finally completed that and am now working on the servos in the fuse. Here's some updated pics.
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Joined: 8/4/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Glad to see the thread is still going. What I did on my rudder and elevator was use Ny-Rods and inserted a piece of music wire inside the yellow plastic tube and bent the wire to go directly to the control horn. On the inside of the booms I used a paper towel wetted with Gorilla Glue(polyglue) and water and stuffed it in the boom with a dowel. the Gorilla glue foams up as it sets and filled the cavity in the boom with a foam paper towel base. The foam holds the outer Ny-Rod in place I dont have any slop in this set up. Where the Ny-Rod outer tube exits the Boom near the elevator and rudder I glued it to the side of the boom and used fiberglass to form a fillet. The yellow inner tube has the music wire inside only in the last 2 inches of inner tube. Only about 1 inch of yellow inner tube sticks past the outer tube. Its the DuBro threaded 2-56 wire that is 12 inches long cut to 2 inches and the threaded part threads into the yellow inner tube after the unthreaded part is pushed in the end of the inner tube. Then a metal clevis is threaded on the end. I'll try and get a few pictures , and post them here. I still havent flown my Skymaster, yet just havent gotten a good time to go try it.
Atsioukl, Your Skymaster looks great hope to here how it flys.
I'll try and add those pics now.
< Message edited by jmupilot -- 12/7/2007 2:21:09 PM >
Posts: 147
Joined: 11/18/2003 From: Old,
FL, USA Status: offline
Some updated pics of my 336. She's almost ready to fly. Just finishing up the electronics installation. It looks like spaghetti inside the fuse with all the wires...
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RE: Cessna Skymaster 336 (Royal Kit ) - 
RE: Cessna Skymaster 336 (Royal Kit ) - 
