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Traxxas Slayer NIB with Bonus Charger and Battery - RTR
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Truggy >> Project 8ight t
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Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 6:10:26 PM   
EZG


 

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Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
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Alright i have made up my mind about buying a Team losi 8ight t but what i have not came to terms with is if i want to buy a rtr one or build one with all aftermarket parts "hop ups". I plain on competeing with it and see no real point in spending 600 to 700 dollars on something that i am going to turn around and add a bunch of after market parts too. I have been looking into it and i am really thinking about just build it in all in after market parts.

Now comes my first of many questions i am sure i am going to have and i am sure everyone here will help me threw this project. Aluminum or Plastic? Now i have read that the aluminum parts are lighter and stronger then plastic parts. Dose any one know for sure that the aluminum parts are really lighter then the plastic parts? The reason i ask this is that i am in the plastic biz and know for a fact that there is many different type of plastic and grades. I think depending on what kind of plastic these parts are made from is going to depend on them being lighter then aluminum. I am guessing they are made from some grade of nylon which would explain why they are heavier then aluminum. But i am pretty sure that nylon depending on the grade is stronger then aluminum. You may think i am crazy but i would bet anything that plastic parts break and aluminum parts bend. Hints that the plastic parts are harder then the aluminum parts. But i would give up strength for weight any day of the week.

What i am after is if i am right there are parts of the truggie that i am going to buy in plastic parts instead of aluminum.
       Post #: 1

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 7:16:16 PM   
K_B



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Joined: 5/10/2007
From: Anchorage, AK, USA
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Get a Race Roller and leave it alone These things are designed to be raced from the factory. If you look at any of the pros out there, you see very little aluminum in the suspension areas of the vehicle. Certainly no aluminum arms (other than the Hot Bodies truggy) and very rarely do you see alloy spindles or hub carriers. Generally, the one suspension piece that gets upgraded to aftermarket alloy parts is the hinge-pin mounts. The stockers wear pretty fast and the plastic retainers have a tendency to break...

I have buddies that like to upgrade stuff just for the sake of upgrading and I get the impression you might be one of those guys too. Nothing wrong with that (I, too, have to control my urge to buy pretty aluminum stuff), but your money can be put to more use in other areas, like buying a quality race engine and electronics. Especially if you plan on competing.

< Message edited by K_B -- 8/25/2008 7:19:20 PM >


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(in reply to EZG)
       Post #: 2

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 11:26:53 PM   
EZG


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
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I have look into the Race roller dont really see what the big deal is about them they come less a engine and electronics and they cost the same as a rtr. If i am paying all that money just for someone to put it together for me useing lock tight even more of a reason for me to build it myself. I know they have aluminum shock towers and other small up grades but really do see the point. I do like to up grade things but only if there is a point too it. Would rather have the fastest and best handling thing out there even if looks stock or like a POS.

I figured so on the aluminum arms and thank for the info on hinge-pin mounts.....

Still would like to know if anyone knows for sure if aluminum parts are lighter then plastic.

Also what is the best brand of shocks out there. Been racing real cars for years i know i can have all the HP in the world but aint going to do a bit of good if i cant get it to dirt.

(in reply to K_B)
       Post #: 3

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 11:38:51 PM   
J24gordon


 

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From: Longmont, CO, USA
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I think alum. is heavier then plastic, when I put all the alum. on my t-maxx it weighed almost 2lbs heavier when I got done building it.

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       Post #: 4

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 11:40:10 PM   
Split7


 

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Joined: 2/20/2008
From: Kingman, AZ, USA
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im working on getting a race roller cuz its already to race once u put engine an elcentronics in it.

(in reply to EZG)
       Post #: 5

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 11:53:26 PM   
hkenvy91


 

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race roller has the premium parts that the rtr goes cheap on

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RE: Project 8ight t - 8/25/2008 11:57:20 PM   
EZG


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
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Thanks thats what i am looking for I have ran across so many things with real cars that says it will improve such and such and come to find out it just a sells pitch i was figuring the same with alum. parts here.

What as much in put as i can get i know what the companys say things that are not always ture just to sell there product i want to know what is the best on the track.

(in reply to J24gordon)
       Post #: 7

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 12:09:39 AM   
K_B



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From: Anchorage, AK, USA
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The race roller is more expensive because it has "upgraded" parts already included that the RTR lacks. One important item it has are alloy shock caps whereas the RTR has plastic. They're almost guaranteed to break under race conditions. Other things include a thicker CNC'd chassis and shock towers for added strength, whereas the RTR uses thinner, stamped aluminum. The RTR also only comes with two shoes for the clutch and the Roller comes with a full 4-shoe setup. The diff in the Roller come pre-filled with fluid whereas the RTR has a little bit of grease in 'em and that's it. The radio that comes with the RTR is adequate, but the servos are not good for 1/8 scale use. Oh, and the body on the Roller is much better looking

The plastics they use tend to absorb shock pretty well and they flex rather than break. I've candy-caned my outer hinge-pins more than once and the arm has yet to break, it just bends with the hinge-pin. Granted, it does weaken the plastic to keep tweaking it like that. I don't know about weight, but I know that alloy arms would just end up bending hinge-pins and I know from experience that bent hinge-pins are no fun to remove.

As for shocks, the Losi shocks are great. They're the standard "big bore" style that everyone is going to now. You could use just about any brand, but some hand-fitting would be necessary as each manufacturer uses a specific length to fit their own stuff. I'm don't wanna sound like Losi fanboy or anything, but generally, with any well-known company that releases a competition kit, the stuff that comes in the box is more than adequate for any level of competition.

The only plastic I've upgraded to alloy is the center and rear diff inserts and hinge pin retainers.

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       Post #: 8

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 12:28:26 AM   
EZG


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
Status: offline
Hmmmm wondering if it would be cheaper to buy alll the parts and put it together myself will be looking into it. The biggest disapoint for me when i started to look into doing this again for a hobby was that almaost everything is rtr i think i enjoyed building then as much as running them. Thanks for the info the race roller must have the upgraded chassis that i have been looking at.

As for the plastic parts if anyone really wants to know i have seen frist hand what nylon can do. Assumeing that what this parts are made out of. But you put nylon up against steel the nylon will wear out the steel parts very quickly chome molly steal at that.As will PVC PET and PC. I work for a recycling company where we grind up plastic into small little pieces.

(in reply to K_B)
       Post #: 9

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 12:52:55 AM   
perryj676


 

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Joined: 1/28/2008
From: Carmichael, CA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: K_B

The race roller is more expensive because it has "upgraded" parts already included that the RTR lacks. One important item it has are alloy shock caps whereas the RTR has plastic. They're almost guaranteed to break under race conditions. Other things include a thicker CNC'd chassis and shock towers for added strength, whereas the RTR uses thinner, stamped aluminum. The RTR also only comes with two shoes for the clutch and the Roller comes with a full 4-shoe setup. The diff in the Roller come pre-filled with fluid whereas the RTR has a little bit of grease in 'em and that's it. The radio that comes with the RTR is adequate, but the servos are not good for 1/8 scale use. Oh, and the body on the Roller is much better looking

The plastics they use tend to absorb shock pretty well and they flex rather than break. I've candy-caned my outer hinge-pins more than once and the arm has yet to break, it just bends with the hinge-pin. Granted, it does weaken the plastic to keep tweaking it like that. I don't know about weight, but I know that alloy arms would just end up bending hinge-pins and I know from experience that bent hinge-pins are no fun to remove.

As for shocks, the Losi shocks are great. They're the standard "big bore" style that everyone is going to now. You could use just about any brand, but some hand-fitting would be necessary as each manufacturer uses a specific length to fit their own stuff. I'm don't wanna sound like Losi fanboy or anything, but generally, with any well-known company that releases a competition kit, the stuff that comes in the box is more than adequate for any level of competition.

The only plastic I've upgraded to alloy is the center and rear diff inserts and hinge pin retainers.



I originally purchased the RTR. It was my first venture into 1/8 nitro and I wanted to get a new radio - it seemed like a decent package to put it all together. I think if I were to do it again, I would get the same or similar radio seperately and get the race roller.

The clutch in my RTR was a 4 shoe, with 2 gold 2 silver mated to 2 lightweight aluminum and two regular aluminum shoes, I have never heard of the RTR having a two shoe clutch. The motor in the RTR seems to be great for an RTR. I did some minor port work and cleaned it up before break in and it has some good pull for how cheap they are. Mine had about 4 gallons on it and running fairly well when I changed it out for a jpx .28. (don't really race competitively)

I did burn out the stock throt. servo in about 2 weeks and moved the stock steering to the throttle (little slower, but works well for me) and bought a Hitech 7955 for steering which really kicks ass. The stock RTR servos are pretty ho hum and would not stand up to racing for very long, even properly setup.

I had to mill out some of the stock chassis to fit a bump box, the hole wasn't big enough. I use the OFNA blue truggy box (its badass). I also replaced the frame braces with the aluminum, got the M2c pins, and aluminum shock caps. Went with 7k/12k/3k diff fluids to replace the grease in the stock setup. I would say I have probably spent 200-300 on upgrades easy, and still haven't replaced the chassis or shock towers (which are coming up next on my list soon enough, the front tower has already been bent once).

Really, to get it race ready, I suspect that most people would want to do the following to the RTR:


  • Replace Servos
  • Replace Motor and Pipe
  • Tune Clutch
  • Replace Shock Caps
  • Replace Shock Towers
  • Replace Frame Braces
  • Replace Chassis
  • Get new body
  • Replace diff. cases (not everyone goes for the heavy duty case, but a lot do)
  • Tires


Not to mention the roller comes with some tuning gear like shock springs and sway bars.
For the price of the race roller, it's a good idea. There is is nothing wrong with upgrading as you go, you certainly learn more about the car and get some nice experience taking it apart and putting it back together, but don't get the RTR thinking you are saving any money. It's more cost effective in the long run to get the race roller - or even better, a decent used chassis that you can upgrade and customize on your own.

I like the RTR, it's helped me learn a lot, and don't regret the purchase. I just don't think it was the best long-term solution.

(in reply to K_B)
       Post #: 10

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 1:18:22 AM   
EZG


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
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I have looked into buy a used chassis and upgrading it but the only problem is there really isnt a whole lot of them out there most people only want a little less then what they are new or more if they are upgraded. Dont quote me on this but i started to look into what it would cost me buying all the parts separate and putting it together myself a few weeks ago. Didnt get real far with it i got side track and wanted to do some more reseach but if i am not mistaken i can buy the same chassis as the race roller and most of the suspension parts in plastic for about 250 or so. I dont for seeing the drive train costing 400 bucks and the race roller dosent come with motor or electronics. So i dont see the point in paying some one else to put it together for me when i will enjoy putting it together myself i will save money (i think will make sure before i start ordering) and will learn a whole lot whiling doing it. Is there anyone that dose not agree with this?

BTW before anyone says it i am not your average guy by any means i use to be a auto tech and now i am a mill writer got bored fixing the same things over and over again building one of these will be a piece of cake lol just know someone would have said something about it being a challenge i will enjoy the challenge

(in reply to perryj676)
       Post #: 11

RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 1:23:43 AM   
mabuecker


 

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*t rtr comes as a 4 shoe clutch and the losi8rtr comes with a 2 shoe ...

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RE: Project 8ight t - 8/26/2008 2:00:33 AM   
EZG


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 8/9/2008
From: Dover, FL, USA
Status: offline
i have found carbon fiber shock towers has anyone tried them? I know they will be super lite just dont know if they will put up with the abuse.

(in reply to mabuecker)